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confish86 wrote:sabre cycle Rubber band willpop T-belts , YES a very sore or should i say sour taste in people`s mouth. I bought my Goodyear T-belts from auto zone on 462 just east of 741

Please, Please, Please avoid Saber Cycle at all costs. You may save once, but you are not supporting a shop that gives a hoot about customer service.

Now back to your regular programming.

wow, I didn't realize that they were such a sore topic. I will definitely be avoiding them in the future. The belts were from barracuda bike parts, am I safe to continue or did I just waste $40?

I think they are chinese. I got (Gates IIRC) from Rock Auto cheaper.
Claude

Do check the belts very carefully, the ones from Sabre---. Their ebay photos show "made in Japan" belts, but I know that customers have received "made in China" belts. False advertising I'd call it, but Sabre--- calls them "same thing". NOT! Personally, I don't/won't use anything from China that would affect the life of myself or my bike.
Belts from Autozone can be had in a couple days, $40 for a pair of Goodyears made in USA. O'Reilly's are $50 for Gates(USA).

So you ever get the blinkers sorted out & did you get the title in your name. My 78 is just right now taking up space. Just like my K1100LT until spring when it gets posted for sale (the BMW that is)

OH! and how many stupid emails did you get for craiglist add. I get 5 women offers a day for my adds. (too bad i`m married)

Confish, just noticed your avatar and blew snot.

I hadda tune it up a bit.

Roady wrote:Confish, just noticed your avatar and blew snot.

I hadda tune it up a bit.

I have had this one for years, glad you just noticed. (Thanks for the tuneup)

progress continues. I received my timing belts in the mail and promptly reassembled the front end. They look good enough quality, but yes they are made in china. oh well, next time i'll know better. bar end mirrors also are here and installed. most importantly though, I got my title back stamped. however, much to my chagrin, my friend forgot to sign it when she stamped it, so i'll be mailing it back for round 2.

for the turn signals, what I can figure is that I need about a 25 watt load resistor wired in parallel with each light. Resistance will be low, probably only 1 to 8 Ohms. I need to fool the flasher into thinking that the 23W incandescent bulbs are still in place. something like this bad boy http://www.ebay.com/itm/25W-1-ohm-1R-Al ... 41626e18e9. or should I get 50 watt to simulate having the front and rear connected to use with the stock flasher?

I was also looking around on the internets and found a few mini mechanical speedometers for under $50. I just don't know what the ratio for the stock speedo is. I read somewhere that it is 2240 rpm to 60 mph. - this one is 2:1 - and for accuracy's sake and functions (but mostly price), I might still just get the bike computer.

After reassembling the engine parts and refilling the oil, I fired the bike up shortly before breaking the wire lead that goes into the starter, so now I'll be tearing that apart sooner than I wanted.

I also painted some more stuff and wrapped the seat. It turned out really well and I like the shape a lot. should be comfortable. It feels like it is contoured well for the position I will be riding.


oh, and sadly no crazy replies from craigslist yet.

So how did you get around the notary thing ?? you can PM me on it if you like. Since i left N.Y. i fell out of the loop & just can`t get little stupid stuff done here in PA.

Love the seat, great job wrapping it.

If needing a mini-speedometer for $50 with a 2240rpm/60mph ratio, check partsnmore.com. They have a wide range of speedos and tachs.

The title work is kind of a special favor. not something that I would be able to repeat, unfortunately.

tearing into the starter, I found it to be in realitively good condition except that the PO had twisted the terminal bolt and broken off the lead. I bought some hardware to repair it. should be fairly straigh foward. I'm also going to be cleaning up the exhaust while I'm at it. the muffler is blue and gold, probably from the bike running very lean from the pilot jets being blocked. any suggestions for cleaning that up? I've heard varying results from products like blue job and blue be gone. the consensus is that it is temporary and won't work on deep bluing like i have.

I like what I'm seeing on partsnmore.com, I even found a viper fairing that has me tempted.

Well I'm fixing the title problem with another frame &the title (funny I swore I'd never do that again) I sent a message to my buddy in N.Y to ask a buddy of his that owns a Harley shop what works best. So hopefully he'll get back soon.Also if starter needs work there 's an electricle shop on Ronks rd owned by an amish man (good work)

my friend wrote this

I've tried every method I could find from using vinegar, chrome polish and steel wool (extra fine) and was never 100% happy. Semi-chrome is a good polishing paste too, but the biggest problem is if the pipes have been blue for a long time it's burned into the chrome already and you're kinda screwed....

you could use black heat paint or have them ceramic coated.

a good fix might be to install a set of exhaust manifold heat shields, which are chrome