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Thanks to a link on the CX500 website, I found radiator hose part numbers and was able to get them locally. I mounted the radiator this morning along with footpegs and assorted brackets. Then dropped off the head covers and the rear fender at the powder coater.

Using the triple tree and forks from the GL1100 requires only the use of one (or two) thick spacers beneath the bottom bearing. One is supplied in the kit from ALL Balls Racing and the alteration of the steering stops. I chose to modify the triple rather than weld on the frames steering head tube. After measuring, these bolts were installed by first drilling a hole large enough for the threaded part, then welding them both above and below the triple.

Received the wheel bearings and seals so was able to build up the wheels and mount the tires. I am using Shinko 712 tires this time. The front went on easily but the rear was more difficult to get on (as is typical with rear tires) but very difficult to air up. I probably spent two hours on two different occasions just trying to seat the bead. I tried all the usual stuff including putting a tie-down strap around the circumference and tightening it up. I bounced and pushed and squeezed till I was blue in the face and had decided to take it to a tire shop when I finally got it to hold air and seat the rim. Now if it will just seal and hold the air long term!

I should get a set of headlight ears in the next day or so and then I will be able to mount the forks and front tire. Then I will have a "roller". Pictures tomorrow.

I have a enclosed sun porch and usually put my tires in there on a sunny day before trying to mount them. If it is cloudy I will bring them in the house and put them over a hot air vent. Warming them makes setting the bead a lot easier.

I really hate trying to seat beads.... I will try WF's trick the next time

Thanks WF, I thougt of using the heat gun but never got around to trying it.

Today I was able to mount the wheels and do a fit check of the bars and tank. The CX came with a 19 inch front tire and a 16 inch rear and although I switched to the GL1100 front end I still ended up with the 19 inch wheel which frankly is too tall for this short bike with a 16 inch rear. So, the forks (slightly longer than stock also) were raised a couple of inches in the triple. The clubman bars just touch the bolts on the top triple and are rotated down as far as they will go but when sitting on the bike they seem comfortable so I don't think there will be a problem.

There is still a great deal to do: wiring, exhaust, lights and most important of all get it running, but it now looks like a motorcycle.

Easter wrote:...There is still a great deal to do: wiring, exhaust, lights and most important of all get it running, but it now looks like a motorcycle.

Yeah, and a darned nice one. Those things make a great canvas. You're painting the canvas like a Picasso.

Thanks DR, but let's not get carried away. Setting on it does seem like it will be fun to ride. Maybe if I price it high enough I will get to keep it and ride it a bit.

that is really starting to look nice... good work!

Thanks RCM, I am even considering turn signals.
Today I mounted the brakes, measured for the brake lines, mounted the fresh-from-the-powder-coater head covers and started the paint work on the rear fender. The lifters and space under the head covers looked very clean so that was encouraging. I also filled the rear drive and put oil in the engine. So far it is staying in.

That is looking great.

I really miss my CX sometimes. I think that was the best sounding bike I ever had.

Been sidetracked working on Cyclops (fuel pump, turn signals) and the CX is off the table, but I have been working on a few bits and pieces including painting that rear fender. I didn't think it would be worth the trouble to mix paint and spray with the gun when only about an inch of the fender shows. I have had good luck with this Rustoleum Professional and use it a lot for odds and ends. It matches very well with the Urethane on the frame so I decided to use it. First coat looked OK and I let it set for a couple of days to cure. While installing it this morning I noticed orange primer showing on the bottom edge which when installed is quite prominent so off it came and into the water for wet sanding with 400 grit. After carefully drying and wiping with the tac cloth, I started spraying a new coat with the Rustoleum.

Within seconds the paint started lifting and "aligatoring". This seems very strange to me, I know incompatible paints will often do this but I have never had it happen applying a second coat of the same paint.

So what to do? Stripping back to the metal is the obvious choice but I have a lot of time invested in filling pits left after sandblasting the rusted chrome. I really don't want to start over. So.. it is at the moment cooking in the oven to thorougly dry. (Wife just left to visit daughter, I have two days to clear the odor) Will then give it a good sanding, sanding primer, sealer and Urethane. If that doesn't work then it is STRIPPER!

I have had that happen. Most likely the OEM paint was lacquer. you can put a urethane over that ONCE, the next time the first coat if urethane will lift off the lacquer and viola! alligators

That is what surprised me, the metal fender had been sandblasted and had no paint except the primer, which apparently is lacquer though it doesn't say that on the can. I guess the lesson is don't paint a second coat of the enamel after the first has had a chance to set up. ???

Heating it up in the oven was a mistake as the paint turned loose even more. But the hot metal did one good thing, when I applied the stripper the paint almost boiled off. I have never seen it work like that. Something to remember for future stripping jobs.

Anyway, the fender is all cleaned up, etch primer, fill primer and filler. Should be ready to paint tomorrow.