NGWClub®, Inc.

Many, many years ago, at a bike show far, far away NGK had a booth and I talked to one of their reps/engineer who explained to me that the resistance is not just about reducing/eliminating radio noise, but is required to help fully fill the coils. Honda spec’d around 5000 ohms with the spark plug caps, but non-resistor plugs and straight hard wire plug wires.

Now with that said, we had this same discussion a year or two ago and I contacted NGK customer service and was told that if you removed all the resistance that it would still run fine.

And with that said, I have run my bike with both the NGK resistor caps and resistor plugs and it ran fine which makes me scratch my head because I have had numerous run problems when the NGK caps resistance exceeds 5k, run problems that just go away with new sub 5k caps. So what does all this mean ? I have no effing clue ! Someone more electrically savy than me may be able to better explain it!

One thing I would add is that I would not run carbon core resistor wires because as you run along and hit bumps the wires flex and crack/break internally causing all kinds of run gremlins.

So what I run : I run the NGK plugs, usually the non-resistors but am currently running the iridium plugs which have a normal 80-120kmi life span, normal plugs are good for about 20k or whenever the center electrode starts to round, where the corners are no longer sharp.

So in addition to the iridium plugs I run the NGK 5k plug caps and solid core wires, I bought a length of solid wire core plug wire from a roll at my local NaPA to add to my full Dyna system.

So what’s right or wrong ? Dunno, but everything affects everything and I’ll add that I would not use the Bolt on ends simply because on a humid midwest day I could easily see it arcing all over, which is why they added boots years ago. You may use them w/o a problem, but I ain’t that lucky !

On the counterfeit NGK plugs, a set my son bought for his 66 mustang & the car just ran like crap, all kinds of oddities when it ran, they came in box’s that looked like the normal yellow NGK box’s from one of his local parts stores like O’Reilly’s or Autozone, the only thing that really was odd is that the NGK logo on the plugs wiped right off where normally it’s in the ceramic.

I’m going back to sleep now !

Redglbx that was a whole technical article lol.
Got a bag of the terminal nuts so here's what im going forward with

at the end, Where did you find the screw-on terminals?

->>One thing I would add is that I would not run carbon core resistor wires because as you run along and hit bumps the wires flex and crack/break internally causing all kinds of run gremlins.<<-

I've had bad luck with carbon core wires in all sorts of vehicles. The only thing that I like about them is that the silicone insulation has high voltage breakdown resistance and it is very temperature tolerant. Neither being a problem on the GL. I buy solid core 7mm wire from my local O'Reilly store. They had to order in a 100 foot roll the first time I needed it (a CB750F), but sold what I asked for. Since then, they have the roll to cut it off from. On the Triumph T150V that I'm working on right now, it is supposed to use B8ES but I am using BR8ES as it seems to be a bit more available, and there has been no report of counterfeit resistor plugs (yet). The BR8ES plugs actually came with the screw-on caps. Just removing the resistor in a resistor cap and replacing it with a chunk of copper to get non-resistor caps.

^^^ all good points and said better than I did !

terminal nuts are from densoproducts.com

https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-067 ... rminal-nut

they are $0.50 i bought $10.00 worth

redglbx wrote: ↑Thu Jun 16, 2022 7:28 am And with that said, I have run my bike with both the NGK resistor caps and resistor plugs and it ran fine which makes me scratch my head because I have had numerous run problems when the NGK caps resistance exceeds 5k, run problems that just go away with new sub 5k caps. So what does all this mean ? I have no effing clue ! Someone more electrically savy than me may be able to better explain it!
e it arcing all over, which is why they added boots years ago. You may use them w/o a problem, but I ain’t that lucky !

As I understand it, having some resistance between the ignition coil's secondary winding and the spark plug's gap increases the duration of the spark event and that increases burn efficiency (= more power from less fuel).

The reason caps with higher than the specified resistance cause problems is that the higher resistance is usually a result of corrosion/oxidation causing a poor contact inside the cap. This can usually be remedied by disassembling the cap and cleaning all the contact points in the internal parts (resistors, springs, rods and the brass "connector" that screws in to hold the rest in and clips onto the spark plug) plus cleaning the contact point at the bottom of the hole those parts came out of. I usually use a Scotchbrite pad and contact cleaner to clean the parts and cut a corner off of the pad to shove down the hole, spray in more contact cleaner and use a small screwdriver to turn the piece of pad to scour it out. A hook bent from a paper clip will remove the piece of pad afterward, followed by another spray of contact cleaner and (if necessary) a blast of air to dry it out before re-assembly.

BTW, what caps do I use? I use XD05F-R caps because we all know that red parts make a bike go faster