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Whiskerfish wrote:It was just pointed out to me that we are missing the 83 Aspencade. If anyone has a copy contact me or upload a link here please!

As these colour schematics come from the clymers manual, 83 Aspencade was not included in the manual. Someone would have to colourize a b/w image, and I haven't seen one.

Sidecar Bob wrote:Liam posted links to the scans a couple of years ago. I downloaded them and was supposed to combine them into one image but I keep forgetting when I have the time to work on it....

Here's some more 1200 schematics (42 pages, 26MB) for when you find that "round tuit." http://ngwclub.com/File%20Share/GL1200% ... matics.pdf

(I didn't scan them so if they are askew or colours off, not my fault!)

Yeah, sorry about that. I had it in my mind that it was a 4 page thing that was sitting waiting in that folder on my desktop, not a 2 page one for just the basic model. Now that I think about it I was supposed to do those ones and then he would upload more.

We already have a GL1200 Standard but here's one that matches the ones for the other models.

Bit belated, Thanks kindly!

Been un-bubba-ing my 76-77's rear end, was at one time piled on with all JC Whitney baggage and add-on light gear possible. Came to me with wires clipped, taped, oddly colored patches place in, all the nightmare one can try and repair.

With proper diagram can with accuracy rewire her rear end!

Again many thanks.

Skip
Lost in Eastern, the Other OrYgunn

Added 22 Sep. 2020 (Courtesy Aussie Gold): UK/Australian version 1975-77 GL1000

(See post #1 for link to full size version)

Many thanks sidecarbob for creating the color schematics!

I didn't create them. With the exception of the UK/Australian drawing they were originally produced by Clymer and published in their manual. They printed each of them on 2 pages and someone scanned them and posted them on one of the forums years ago.

All I did was clean them up and join the pages together so the whole drawing could be viewed at the same time.

Ok guys stupid question here I'm having a ground issue with my dyna ignition system. I have continuous 12v power to the dyna. But when I try to static time the bike I get nothing out the test light. So my question is if I run a wire from the negative battery side to the dyna back plate would that ground it an could I possibly solder it to the backing plate an keep it as a constant ground wire.??????

MODERATORS: Please move the post above this one by BurnsYoFace34 to a new thread (reason: It doesn't belong in this thread) and delete this post.

TheFieryMan noticed an error in the 1980-82 GL1100 Interstate drawing
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=78092

I have replaced the original incorrect drawing with this corrected one and corrected the first post of this thread to reflect that.

I also took it upon myself to freshen up that schematic with MUCH clearer wire colors than the original scan. I will have it ready to be checked by others in a couple days (I'm taking a couple days away from tech). I added a couple other helpful notations for myself as well. If the hive approves I may be convinced to do the same to the other color diagrams.

A key component of this is that I did the work in Gimp and put the different categories of wires in layer groups with each wire in its own layer. That means that you can very easily hide and show only the wires you want to see.

Anyway, I will post it here in a couple days for you to play with.

Alright, first of all a very big thank you to Sidecar Bob for stitching together the original scans of these images and uploading them here.
I am posting a much larger version of the 1980-1982 GL1100 Interstate version that has been totally retraced with much clearer wire colors. The resolution of the image is quite large (3000x2250) so its much larger than the original image uploaded by SCB.

Link to download the JPG file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/6i57tno820n5p ... e.jpg?dl=1

For most peoples needs that will be great but I am also going to post a link to the GIMP XCF file that I exported that JPG from. The reason is that if you have GIMP you can open the file with EACH WIRE as its own layer which means if you are just trying to trouble shoot one problem you can hide all the other wires to quickly see where your problem wire should be connected.
Here is the link to that file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/xyvv4wpixv85u ... e.xcf?dl=1

I am going to update this post later with some additional notes and the reason why I even did this but I'm in a small time crunch right now. I wanted to get this posted quick

That looks great. Is there any chance you might be convinced to do the same for the other models at some time?

Sidecar Bob wrote: ↑Sat Apr 22, 2023 10:45 am That looks great. Is there any chance you might be convinced to do the same for the other models at some time?

Ha! I knew that request would probably be coming. I am planning to at least do the one I should have started with for my own bike. I actually started that project on the diagram before I knew which bike I would get and it was really the error I found in the diagram that pushed me over the edge to do this.

So I'll be doing the Aspencade next. Actually I think most of the main part of the diagram is the same so hopefully I'll be able to just duplicate the file and add / adjust the one I already did.

Then we will see what happens.

Thanks so much for the schematic! The ones in the Haynes manual are not the best as far as discerning colors.

Here's what greeted me when I opened the headlight today. You can see why I'm so appreciative.