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Hello ICB,
Very nice work you are doing. Will save us all time and money.

I just finished installing new belts on my build. It is my opinion that the tensioners are there to only take up slack. The cogs in the belts like these do not like to be forced into the gears. Kind of opposite of V and poly V belts. I imagine this engine grows quite a bit when hot also. (Camshafts will get further apart) So I can see no reason for the belts to be held in tension, just take up most but not quite all of the slack and the belts should be quieter and last longer. I just let the spring pull the idler against the belt and most of the slack was gone, not sure how this squares with Honda recommendations. I have a bad habit of not reading the manual until I get things really messed up...

"I just let the spring pull the idler against the belt and most of the slack was gone, "

That's what the Manual says ......

Gord

Here's a picture of the studs in the block...going to see if the local dealer has some dowel pins in stock tomorrow, took a bit of work getting the old ones out and they didn't survive too well.

Looks good.

I have found that you can check surfaces like your block and heads with a big flat bastard file. With no studs or dowels in place, Press the file tight against the surface and move it completely across in one pass while gradually pushing it in the direction it is designed to cut.

After a couple of passes you will see the low and high plaices. With some elbow grease, you can make a big difference, especially when it is the aluminum you need to remove material from. what I usually see is the surface around the studs will be higher.

Nice to see that the studs are working so far. Did they set up a kit for you, or was it just off the shelf? If it was, would you care to share the part number(s)?

Got the right side head back on and torqued down, the studs seem to have worked just fine. One of the ARP 12pt nuts stripped while torquing it down but I was able to get it off with a HF extractor socket. I think the socket stripped which then rounded the nut. Before I put the studs in the block, I cut some slots into a stock head bolt and ran it in and out to clean the threads.

Here are some pictures...

Yep, there's copper in there!
All torqued down, studs were perfect length
The other head gasket (not yet annealed) and the stainless o-rings. Just spray some copper gasket spray, let it tack up a bit and it'll hold the rings in place. Then sprayed a few coats on either side of the gasket. They are serrated on one side to "bite" into the copper once torqued down. The manufacturer recommended placing them on the "head side" of the gasket.

wingrider wrote:Nice to see that the studs are working so far. Did they set up a kit for you, or was it just off the shelf? If it was, would you care to share the part number(s)?

Off the shelf, I called with the measurements and they looked up studs that matched. The studs are different thread on either end, and actually need to be used "upside down" to match the block. The longer studs have a different end thread which required their own size nuts. Here is the order I placed with them, you can probably find them cheaper online somewhere by searching the part numbers.

8x Short studs - AM4.000-1LB
8x Short nuts - 300-8345
4x Long studs - AM4.950-1LB
4x Long nuts - 300-8343
12x Washers - 200-8519
ARP Ultra Torque Assembly Lube 1.69oz squeeze tube - 100-9909
Total shipped came to $152.65

Thank you very much! Looks great put together!

new to the site, this is deffenently the best help for my build, all of my questions were answered,... well, the main ones.

so the stock pistons are holding up to the boost?

without the turbo, i got the idea that your in the 30 psi base fuel pressure range? and 45 with boost?
what pump did you use? looks half the size of the 255.

i love this build, looks almost like the mock up i have started on, and looking at this makes me feel so much better in the direction i was heading.

82expghost wrote:new to the site, this is deffenently the best help for my build, all of my questions were answered,... well, the main ones.

so the stock pistons are holding up to the boost?

without the turbo, i got the idea that your in the 30 psi base fuel pressure range? and 45 with boost?
what pump did you use? looks half the size of the 255.

i love this build, looks almost like the mock up i have started on, and looking at this makes me feel so much better in the direction i was heading.

engine is completely stock, except now for the copper gaskets and studs.

pump is an inline walbro 255, with -6 fuel lines.

I have base fuel pressure set to 45, injectors are usually rated at 43psi. Not sure if its a 1:1 rising rate when referenced to boost, my pressure gauge is not visible when on the bike.

Most fuel pressure regulators, if referenced to MAP, should maintain whatever pressure it was designed, for, or set at. So as boost goes up so does fuel pressure. But with modern ECUs, and using wideband O2, if it gets too lean at higher boosts you can map in a longer injector pulse, within reason. For a general reference going from 43 to 60 PSI of fuel pressure will get you about an 18% higher flow rate from an injector.

Really appreciate the sharing of information. BTW, I have a set of gl1200 FI intakes if anyone wants a set. Trades for valve covers, timing belt covers or such are welcome! Here is a picture from the internet of what they look like.

got the left side head off today, looks like the head gasket was on its way out.

Your Bike is INSANE.....Well done

JIM

Over my head but interesting.

Hard to believe it's been four months since I took the heads off...funny how life gets in the way

Waiting on a few parts to ship and hopefully will be back up and running by mid April/end of May the latest.