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The 84-85 basket is the one to use. I would also stick with the same year pump gear.. Old Fogey is the expert on this one regarding opening up the rear cover. I don't recall him having to do so..
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The oil pump chain is the same for all four cylinders and sprocket is the same for all years of 1200, one tooth less than the 1000/1100. If you're fitting the whole 1200 clutch the rear cover has to come off, along with the original scavenge pump sprocket. Do the scavenge pump gasket mod while you have the chance:

http://www.wingovations.com/scavenge-pu ... 4579471109

Check out everything else such as the starter clutch mechanism, starter chain and the stator while you have the cover off. Put a new seal kit in the slave cylinder.
You know that all this makes sense. Why? 'Cos you can't get back into any of it to fix any problems without removing the engine! Or at least dropping the back of the engine down.

The clutch design changed completely for the 86 model. I don't know whether the clutch cover and rear cover will clear that sort of ribbed basket; the plain plates are the same part throughout all the four cylinder models, so I guess it might but can't be sure.

Thanks OF. Great help. I will be sure and do a addendum to your post with pictures to help us less experienced folks.

Since I have not broken open the back cover yet, do you expect I should need to replace the drive shaft seal? Also, any feel for sourcing the scavenge oil gasket? Can't seem to locate on in the normal places.

Not to steal the thread, but what were the differences made, and is the 86-87 therefore considered any better than the 84-85??

ericheath wrote:Not to steal the thread, but what were the differences made, and is the 86-87 therefore considered any better than the 84-85??

This is a fisc of the later 1200 clutch. 'Ribbed' clutch basket and different friction plates
http://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1200i-gold ... ml#results

I would guess not a success, as Honda dropped that peculiar sort of pointed tooth design of the tangs on the friction plates for the more normal square tangs when they brought in the GL1500

Have made much progress and learned a couple of things on the way; 84 pressure plate snap ring fight, 84 clutch plate alignment, etc. I will be posting pics on my build thread.

I ran into a surprise when installing the 84 cover with the slave and 42mm push rod installed. When I went to slide the clutch cover onto the rear engine cover the push rod hit the cup when I was still about 1/4" from seating the clutch cover on the rear engine cover. Did anyone have to tighten the clutch cover bolts down with a gap between the covers? This does not seem right. I have looked at OF's pics and my clutch looks exactly the same depth into the rear engine housing (showing about two plates) and my push rod seems to be protruding the same distance from the back of the clutch cover.

Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks.

Lads, are you sure the slave cylinder is compressed?

Good point. I thought so but the spring might have fallen off the center hub. I will take a look.

Thanks.

You did cut it to the prescribed amount per Sunbbobb's how-to??

Yea, 42mm. OF says 42.5.

Watching how this goes.

The spring behind the slave piston does keep the piston and pin pushed forward; by how much I can't remember, but the pin is always in contact with the cup and bearing in the release plate.

Buttoned up and looks better. I took apart the slave and reassembled. The piston was not depressing all the way, probably because of a bound piston. Little crocus cloth and made sure the spring was aligned until I had the slave cover on. False alarm.

Thanks. Hope to have the motor setup for my bench run tomorrow. Will put updates on thread.

Lads wrote:Buttoned up and looks better. I took apart the slave and reassembled. The piston was not depressing all the way, probably because of a bound piston. Little crocus cloth and made sure the spring was aligned until I had the slave cover on. False alarm.

Thanks. Hope to have the motor setup for my bench run tomorrow. Will put updates on thread.

That isn't quite making sense to me. What do you mean by 'made sure the spring was aligned'? It sounds like you have the spring outside the slave cylinder; there is no need for that statement if it's in the right place inside the slave.

The slave piston must NOT come right back to the back wall of the cylinder. If it does, the seal will come back past the inlet port for the fluid and you will leak hydraulic fluid into the engine.

I don't know what the problem was because I took it apart. It looked like the spring was not seated correctly when I put the piston in and the piston was binding against the wall. It is not compressed to the wall.