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Well, this is one of the more important steps on the trike, so good to see you are taking it carefully.

One thing I notice on trike building, is that there does not seem to be a concern to keep unsprung weight down. Unsrung weight leads to a more harsh ride but maybe that just is not a big deal on a trike compared to the appearance of skinny tires and rims. It is just that the unsprung weight includes the axle and wheels and that is a very large increase compared to the OEM final drive and single skinny wheel.

Don't worry .... we're watching ....

Gord

RAT wrote:Don't worry .... we're watching ....

Gord

Yeah, we just don't say much when we are learning.

Another polite and quiet student here. Been having considerable trouble with good ole Arthur* in my right knee and there might be one of these in my future.

*Last name is Itis.

Many of "us" that have done a few trike builds or sidecar builds DO care about unsprung weight. It gets down to compromise/s...weight savings for gas mileage or strength for reliablity plus comfort. As one gets the components for the build you look for weight savings parts or combining of functions for those parts to the entire build. Most call it "engineering"...we call it.....doing what is needed to get it together without it falling apart going down the road stuff.

Finding a full rear unit that is lightweight for the "shaft-drive" bikes is somewhat harder to save weight than a chain/belt drive. But cost drives this decision most times. There are those rear units that need no "narrowing" but as a rule most do need "some" narrowing. Finding "old" sub-compact autos with the narrowest rears are getting harder to find. Once in a while you can find a full aluminum rear unit but it's costly.

Most that homebuild their trikes have machines (bikes) that have many years on them or have owned since new (like me). These machines maybe 20-30 yrs. old...but have many more yrs. of use with going the trike route. So the bike cost is nominal or already paid and that only leaves looking for car/truck parts, metal components and the build to do for those that can do this type of fabbing.

RT2

Nice to hear from everybody!
I too have concerns about unsprung weight, but I have also spent many miles in a Citroen 2CV that, if you consider its unsprung weight in comparison with its all up weight, is superficially horrendous. However, they all drive like a dream!
I think the trick is to keep disturbance acceleration as low as possible, things moving slow and easy don't fight back too hard. and also, I am not looking for performance, I too have far too much arthritis to cope with a harsh ride and my aim is for a really soft, easy cruiser that hopefully will be usable (by me!) for many years.
that also implies some form of reverse gear. I am working on that...
in the meantime, travelling hopefully and enjoying the process is all

Reverse gear: easiest item to use is a car starter motor (approx. 250-275 rpms) with it's own momentary contact switch. Mount starter near the rear tire on the frame on a sort of swivle arm that can be moved from your seated position. Kinda like the old "j-brake or t-brake" handles for the emergency brake. Pull on handle to make contact to wheel tire and hit switch and back ya go.

RT2

I'm still keeping an eye on your progress!

Cliff

thanks for the tip on the starter motor. I was thinking of getting one wheel assembly of a caravan mover. Got one on my caravan with a remote control and would be magic if I didnt want to prove I used to be an HGV driver everytime we park up. I think you mean to drive the wheel in the same way, with a 3 to 4 inch diameter wheel jammed up against the tyre? then backed off to go forward. Like you say, the trick is to do it from the seat.

appreciate all the interest - shall try to make it worth your time!

This is what I've been working on for the last few weeks:
Need to check the length of the longer one, can't remember now whether it is right or just the bit left over. The different lengths of wheel spacer/adaptor centralise the axle on the bike's propshaft offset.

Still searching for the right size drill to enlarge the stud holes to press in the studs. I will then get Chris to weld them together, no point an amateur doing it when a professional is standing by. At least I hope he will be standing by soon, his new knees are giving him a lot of pain and he still has to have new ankles and the old ones are not a load of fun at the moment. He hasn't made it to the workshop for 3 or 4 weeks now.

Onto the next step; making the rose joint pipe fittings. Just started:
Turning one end down to fit in the pipe. Then tomorrow will cut it to length and drill and tap for the 16mm joint. Got 6 to do, 4 at 16mm, 2 at 12mm. Nice steady work these after the wheel spacers, working to tight tolerances is too much stress these days!

Keep plugging along, awesome.

I look at those offsets and imagine a gear tooth around the outer diameter of the inner ring like a flywheel. Mount a car starter with a solenoid with an interlock so it can only be engaged while the bike is in neutral and you have your reverse gear.

Sagebrush wrote:I look at those offsets and imagine a gear tooth around the outer diameter of the inner ring like a flywheel. Mount a car starter with a solenoid with an interlock so it can only be engaged while the bike is in neutral and you have your reverse gear.

WOW! +1, great idea Dean!!

that is a great idea, I have been wondering about a flywheel ringgear there for some time. Big problem for me is that the wheel adaptor is 8 inches inside the wheel, so access and space are tight. will give it some thought. Thank you!

Doing a bit most days at present. Using Chris's workshop in Frodsham, 8 miles from home and a nice country drive. Poor chap is still stuck indoors with swollen legs and feet so I bring along a sandwich and we talk through the jobs I'm doing. He lives alone so a little company helps. He has carers coming in morning and evening who look after him pretty well really, but can't wait to get back on his feet.
It's cold in the workshop (aka a shed) but he's got a great little gas burner so that's the first job of the day. First job was to have a look at the propshaft arrangement.
I take the bits in to Chris and leave him to work out a plan. Then an hour or two later I get a great little sketch with some good ideas to think over. You will recognise the bits near to the camera, the dirve shaft and splined socket. Then there's the L200 rear prop shaft and then a spacer/adapter, unmade as yet, to link the propshaft to the Minor diff nose.

Whilst Chris is mulling this over I get on with the rose joint attachments. These will screw on to the rose joint and fit into the tubing that will make up the suspension arms. Picking up from yesterday, drill and tap the first one
then see if it fits:
it does, nicely. Round bar in the back of the picture is half the stock. Cost me £12. Good value.
Nice steady engineering this, tapping is relatively heavy work for me but otherwise it's a holiday. Lots more to do over the next few days.