I just swapped heads on my 77 (8 bent valves from PO) and one thing that made it super easy (and reduced the anxiety level quite a bit) was that I loosened the tappet adjusters all the way before fitting the heads. I have changed countless timing belts on interference engined cars without doing this, but wanted to be safe here and that seemed to be the best way. I always do this when swapping heads on car engines where possible, belt or chain, and have not f'dup yet! This reduced the valve lift to next to nil. I put the heads on the wing with the cams at a neutral position (no valves open, which I think you can only do if the tappets are loose) then after torquing, set the cams at their TDC positions. This is much easier when you do not have to fight the valve springs much, plus the cams do not want to snap back or forward so you do not necessarily need to use Octane's zip-tied wrench trick. Also reduces the chance of damaging open valves with the piston, or by dropping the head or misalligning it or whatever. It may give enough clearance to make the motor non interference while assembling BUT I did not check this (I will do this on my spare motor later, though.) After timing the cams, I timed the crank, threw on the belts, tensioning the left bank belt first, then turning the motor over 1 revolution and tensioning the right belt. Carefully turned motor over by hand several times and rechecked cam timing and belt tension. When I was satisfied, I set the valve clearances back to spec and ran through again by hand several times to make sure there was no valve contact. Had no problems with this method, and the bike fired right up after I installed the plug wires correctly (duh.) Hope this helps.