Polishing - removing engine parts

[78wing]

I would like to polish the intake manifolds, carb covers, valve covers, and timing belt covers - however, I am hesitant to remove them in case they have seals or gaskets. Can anyone tell me if removing and replacing these parts requires special care or replacement gaskets?

[octane]

Hi 78 wing and welcome !!! to you.

Yes the timing belt covers has rubber seals.
Here's what it looks like when they off:


Don't worry unless they are in bad shape. There is no oil or anything behind the cover. Basicly they are there to keep out
dust, water and dirt.

The valve covers has rubber seals as well:


They need to be in real good shape, as you have hot oil
flowing in there.


The intakes has O-rings: (click this:)
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/octane/a ... ood_polish
There's no reason not to throw in new ones.
They're cheap and it's paramount that your carbs
do not suck in 'false' air, witch they will do if
the O-rings are in bad shape.

Sorry, but I'm not sure I understand what you mean
when you say "carb covers".

BTW here's a small trick:
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/Carb-rebuild/CIMG0705

Best regards
Octane

[78wing]

Thank you for the advice! It looks like I am a long way from the finish you have on your parts! By "carb covers" I mean the round aluminium domes on top of the carb - (carb float bowl covers? - as polished in your "First one ready" photo in the gallery). When replacing the covers, do the seals and o-rings have to be treated in any way (oiled?).

[octane]

Hi again

Here's a picture of the carb-body with
the vacuum chamber cover removed ,
showing the 'gasket' beween cover
and carb body (the off-white ring).
They are made of some sort of rather stiff
plastic-something. If they are OK, you're OK.-)
http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/Carb-rebuild/CIMG0690

As for the last question: I don't, certaintly not with new
rubber/O-rings, and def'netly not anywhere inside
the carbs.

(O-rings etc. in brake-parts is a different matter)

Best regards
Octane


I just noticed; you're in France!
Well then, this one's for you:

[Frenchy]

I would like to polish the intake manifolds, carb covers, valve covers, and timing belt covers - however, I am hesitant to remove them in case they have seals or gaskets. Can anyone tell me if removing and replacing these parts requires special care or replacement gaskets?

One thing to pay CLOSE attention to when polishing the carb tops, is the plastic buttons on top!! It's real easy to polish a hole in it!!!!!

As far as seals:
You need to have new o-rings for the intakes, & new valve cover gaskets on hand. They might do alright, but I've never had good luck with old seals......

With a buffing wheel & compounds, polishing isn't that bad of a job.

Other parts to consider polishing:

• *point cover
  *Fuel pump
  *Tach drive
  *Timing inspection cover
  *Oil fill cap
  *The gear cover right in front of the oil fill cover

I'm sure there's more, but it's early & I need more coffee.................


Here's some shots with some of the above mentioned items polished: http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/album05

[Zryder]

This what I have to do big time is the polishing , what are you Gents using to polish with , I meen with the polishing wheel , what type of compound ? ( Z )

[78wing]

Thanks Frenchy and Octane for the advice - the photos are a great help and give me the inspiration to get all the polishing done! No buffing wheel so it will take a bit of time...

[Frenchy]

Z,
I use a medium compound with a firm wheel, then a fine compound with a soft wheel. For any rough spots, you can sand it down. I don't sand with anything finer than 600 grit before polishing.

78wing,
They do make buffing wheels that'll chuck up in a drill.
I can knock out a set of intakes in an evening using the buffing wheel.

I get my polishing supplies from Eastwood @: http://www.eastwood.com/



IMPORTANT NOTE!!!!!!!!

When you polish aluminum, were a respirator!!!!!!!!!

[Zryder]

Thanks Frenchy , and got the site book marked . 8)

[Goldtr6c]

Does anyone out there have a favorite clear coat for the freshly polished goodies that won't turn brown or yellow? Willie

[rcmatt007]

the most durable clear coats are automotive urethanes that are mixed with a catalyst. they are pricey and do requir a paint gun, compressor etc. ABSOLUTLEY make sure you use a respirator with these as they do REALLY nasty things to lungs.

[Frenchy]

Does anyone out there have a favorite clear coat for the freshly polished goodies that won't turn brown or yellow? Willie

I don't clear coat mine, because if anything happens to them, you've got to remove it. I like my metal polished to the point that it almost looks like chrome. I use "Never-Dull" ( a wadding polish by Eagle One) to maintain it.

If you must clear coat it, Eastwood ( www.eastwood.com ) make a clear coat specifically for polished metal parts.

[rcmatt007]

frenchy.... you stated "wear a respirator" on polishing aluminum... I had not heard that before... is there a reason (well, I am sure there is... so maybe the question is: what is the reason)

[QUEEENlE]

Doing some research now on the effects of polishing Aluminum and Chrome ... not sure at this point but it seems to me its not actually the "dust" created by polishing and sanding that would be bad or have any long term effects .......BUT the chormium oxide that is used in some polishes and polishing compounds CAN! .... remember also that "stuff" changes chemically when heated or other chemicals are added.... care should be taken ... my two cents.

Hugs
Q

[rcmatt007]

that may explain why I was all congested after polishing carb intakes yesterday.... of course the sudafed kept me awake all night!