NGWClub®, Inc.

Take a 10mm socket and long extension (job is easier if headlight bucket is removed). Remove the 2 bolts holding switch to gooseneck (under the gooseneck)!



Unplug wire harness from switch and take unit out. There are 2 tabs on barrel that have to be pushed in to remove plastic part. (be careful with tabs after 30 years they are brittle)



Now seperate plastic unit with a flat bladed screw driver.



Inside there are 2 saddles and springs , pluss 5 copper post.







Now take sandpaper and contact cleaner and clean them. Put springs in the holes where they go and put saddles over springs (they can only go one way) so can't screw up.



Clean up connector's and put a little contact grease on all parts. Put plastic unit back together (only go's one way) so can't mess this up. Now put plastic unit back in barrel ( this has to line up)





If you didn't move switch in prosess you should be good to go. I hook up to electric and try it before I remount it to bike. This way if it didn't work you don't have to take back out.

Great how to Peteybug!!

thanks man...

so you dont have to remove the key barrel

[sarcasm]Well thanks alot Petey![/sarcasm]

You've just added another little thing to my downtime list.

Great writeup ... and as always, great pics.

Another one for ShopTalk.

sorry Roady! will try somethig more soon I hope. oldies

Good job thar Petey!

Yep,

That's one more thing you won't have trouble with next summer.

Peteybug -
Sorry to be the "Edit Nazi" but you doubled up on one of the pics.
If you're not sure how to correct it I could do it for ya ...........

Thanks sodbuster I think I did it. Pete

If you get your switch apart and find that it's too far gone to rebuild, there are new switch bottoms available on eBay. They are under $10

well i followed your guide and now I have electric... and the neutral light is on... but still no start so now I am going after the solenoid.

you were right on

Great glad it worked

DO NOT use sandpaper.

The grit is harder than the copper so tiny particles of grit that come off of the backing will become imbedded into the contact's surface. You will probably not see or feel them. When this hapens the switch will seem to work fine at first but as the part witht the imbedded particles movea across the surface of the other part it wil carve grooves into it.

If a contact is pitted you can dress it with a POINTS FILE.
DO NOT use a regular file. POINTS FILES are designed for dressing ignition points and have the their teeth cut at the proper angle &c so that they will leave a very smooth surface.

Sorry BoB I used crocus cloth do a lot of wood working so use the words sandpaper out of habit.

Same thing - the particles of grit are harder than the coppper, they will come off the backing and they will become imbedded in the copper.