1975 GL1000 rear cover removal.

[Kryptic]

I've started rebuilding a 1975 GL1000 that I got from my grandfather. The bike has 2411 miles on it and spent most of its life sitting. I'm breaking the motor down but can't seem to get the rear cover off. Anyone have any tips to get it separated? I can't seem to find much information other than everyone saying it should basically just come off.

[Placerville]

It's customary to introduce yourself in the Welcome and Introductions section first so that other members can get to know you and your ride. You might want to post again there so you can be properly welcomed.

Regarding your question, if the mileage you show above (2,411 miles) is correct, why would you want to 'break the motor down' (and I'm not sure what you mean by that). Is there something wrong with the engine? Are you splitting the case or, when you say, 'rear cover' are you just talking about the clutch cover? In order for us to help you, we need a lot more infromation about the problems you're trying to correct.

[ericheath]

You'll never do it! What time should I come pick it up and take it away? Rubber mallet and lots of taps if it is the rear cover. It has some fairly thin areas of aluminum. There are at least two locating dowels there. I'm with Placer on the need to break it down. You probably should go to Randakks.com and click on his links to gl1000. He has advice for startup of a Wing that has been sitting. There will be lots of help from here if you keep posting. You have a rare bird there.

[robin1731]

If you want to take the cover off a good rubber dead blow hammer is the way to go. You can hit the cover pretty hard and do no damage. You still need to pick some strong sections to hit it though. Go back and forth from side to side and even top and bottom.

Of do all this after you double and triple check that you have all of the bolts out. Then check the bolts again.

[CYBORG]

don't worry if you break it. i have some spare ones

[Motowalt]

Welcome to NGW!

Lots of good guys here with mountains of knowledge and experience with these old girls...
Post up a pic or two of your grandfather's bike...we'd love to see it...

With so few miles there may be no need to open up the engine...except for changing the timing belts up front...definitely don't want to run it without changing the 40year old belts first...but definitely start with Randakk's tips re Starting after a long layup...

http://www.randakksblog.com/starting-a- ... ng-lay-up/

BTW, where in Texas are you?

[Kryptic]

Thanks for all the quick responses guys!

If you want to take the cover off a good rubber dead blow hammer is the way to go. You can hit the cover pretty hard and do no damage. You still need to pick some strong sections to hit it though. Go back and forth from side to side and even top and bottom.

If you want to take the cover off a good rubber dead blow hammer is the way to go. You can hit the cover pretty hard and do no damage. You still need to pick some strong sections to hit it though. Go back and forth from side to side and even top and bottom.

Of do all this after you double and triple check that you have all of the bolts out. Then check the bolts again.

This sounds about like what I've been doing. Check, double check... scratch my head for a minute and start over. Every seal on this one is like cement. More of the history on this. My grandfather purchased it at the Killeen Texas Honda West in 1975. He and my dad rode it briefly and it was parked. It eventually wasn't running so well and was given to an uncle for a short time. He started a restoration of sorts with new aftermarket mufflers and a few other minor fixes. After the uncle got bored it went to my dad who got it running but poorly, and again it sat. I remember it running when I was younger and my dad took it, I'm sure it was probably carb issues at that point which was 1993. I went off to high school and eventually college while my parents built a new house and the bike sat outside for several years. It was moved indoors around 1997 where it sat until I picked it up in July of this year. Through all the passing around nobody ever changed the title so I'm still the 2nd owner on paper.

Even though this GL has low miles on it I wanted to be sure about the motor as it wouldn't turn when I got it and I didn't want to force it. I'm building an heirloom, I didn't want to do anything to jeopardize it. The clutch plates were seized solid as were the valves against the seats on the closed ones. The motor did have full oil and antifreeze but time takes its toll on exposed parts. I'm wanting to replace the piston rings and clean and oil the cylinder walls at the very least. Every seal on the bike needs to be replaced and refreshed. They were still holding the various fluids but I'm doing 100% refresh on this one. I've attached some of the starting pictures. I've been taking pictures and organizing everything as I take it off. I'll continue posting more as I can.

John

[Kryptic]

Welcome to NGW!

Lots of good guys here with mountains of knowledge and experience with these old girls...
Post up a pic or two of your grandfather's bike...we'd love to see it...

With so few miles there may be no need to open up the engine...except for changing the timing belts up front...definitely don't want to run it without changing the 40year old belts first...but definitely start with Randakk's tips re Starting after a long layup...



BTW, where in Texas are you?

I've been following this exact post as a template. I printed it out and got to work but after seeing some wear and rust in places I didn't want to I decided on a complete restoration. Better safe than sorry even though I could probably get her running without all this extra work. All of the electrical connectors and misc plastic will need to be refreshed anyway. The poor timing belts look like they're factory new except for the rust from the belt tensioners. The tensioners themselves are covered with surface rust but spin smooth. Everything like these important pieces will still get replaced.

I'm living in Cleburne Motowalt, I'll definitely give you a call later this week, I'd love to hear any tips or advice you've got.

John

[Missourimike]

So far, no one has mentioned what I would say is the Most Important Thing To Do when tearing into a Wing....get the Genuine Honda Shop manual and READ IT! The USE IT for every part you touch. Those fellows who think Wings are just like any other bike, but have never been into one, are in for some serious surprises and extra expense due to muffing up perfectly good parts.
Even if a Wing motor has sat for years, if it turns over by hand, you're way ahead in the restoration process. If it doesn't turn over, and a good soaking in penetrant doesn't free it up, remove the heads and try again. If the pistons are not stuck, what's the need in replacing working parts? Seems like every Wing(dozens) I've had my hands on has sat for years, at one time or another. Only two had locked up motors that were replaced for way less than the parts that would have been called for to do a rebuild.
And if all else fails, ask the gurus for help, but save some time by reading The Book. Good Luck with your endeavor.

[Kryptic]

Thanks Missourimike, I did get a copy of the manual first thing. The manual and reading through this forum for the past two months has been a huge help. I'd still have to rely on someone with more knowledge than I about the condition of the pistons. I was given the advice to change the rings from a buddy who does car restorations which may not apply in this case. Here is a picture of one side fresh from removing the head. The rust on the timing crank is what concerned me enough to want to open it up and clean it even though it may come clean through running it. What do you think?

John

[Kryptic]

I've sprayed the pistons with pb blaster and let it sit, then changed to an oil soak afterwards. Otherwise I've been working on the heads. Also I'd hate to not replace all the gaskets while I've got the motor out.

[Missourimike]

I must say, those are nasty looking piston sleeves. The flywheel, never seen rust on one before. What did the oil look like when it was drained? As for a penetrant, PB Blaster is better than WD-40, but way down on the list, still, of good penetrants. The best is actually a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF! KROIL is #2, but expensive at near $50 a gallon. Do use gloves with acetone, as it is absorbed readily into the skin and goes straight to your liver.
A complete set of gaskets for a Wing motor will be in the hundred$ of dollar$. Someone who's been there can tell you more. Then you've got the replacement parts on top of that. By the time it is all done, you could have bought a running parts bike for less $.
You can use a later model motor(78-79) and use the '75 heads, but the timing is different. Mark the flywheel for 5 degrees on them.

[sunnbobb]

Rebuilding a bike that has been in the family is a noble cause. From the few pictures I see, yes a teardown is warranted. However, a used engine would be a lot easier. Good luck whichever direction you go. We're here to help.

[Kryptic]

Got the rear cover off and this is what was waiting for me. The stator was seized to the housing keeping me from being able to easily remove the rear cover.

John

[sunnbobb]

not good