There is a separate seal behind the coolant pump in the engine block to keep the oil from getting out of the crankcase around the drive shaft to the coolant pump (this shaft comes from the oil pump) Whenever you have the coolant pump out it is a good idea to replace this oil seal. If it leaks (like mine) the oil will go through the bearings and then out the weep hole. (at least the bearings get lubed in the process)
I am on long distance trip away from home with GW 1200. Engine started running warm, but not into red. Pulled off road, found oil floating in overflow tank. Towed to nearest Honda dealer. Leak down test on all cylinders showed all cylinder OK, cylinder gasket leak not too likely ? Dealer is changing water pump and associated seals including the oil seal going back into tranny housing. The pump drawings would indicate to me the pump drive shaft seal in tranny housing AND ceramic mechanical seal behind pump rotor must have both failed for oil to enter the water ? Old pump is now out and there is no wobble in pump shaft. Never had any steam / coolant in exhaust but that just confirms leak down test results. I am still concerned there could be a leak from oil passage to water passage in a head gasket ? Comments ?
I am really glad i found this post. I am rebuilding a 77 wing, practically from a skelatized version of a 75 wing, and its all been going great except when i put the cooling system on, it started to drip on the floor. I desperately looked in my manual and found no reference. I had a similair problem on my cx500 that involved a horrible water (mechanical) seal replacement, but this is not the case. I'll take it down to the o ring and see if it helps...
Hey W.N.T.R. it's normal for them to leak a little for the first 200 miles or so after a new seal. Run it awhile befpre you tear into it.
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Ok, so i drove it a lot (about 400 miles). And my coolant is uncontaminated. however, now it leaks coolant AND OIL from the weep hole. Wondering what to do, i've the read the business about feeling the impeller for play etc... But, the lack of oil in my coolant suggests to me that that part is fine. My engine runs fine at NOT, about middle of the way for the temp gauge. This engine sat dry for a long time, so the seals are probably cracked and aged. I guess the question for me is, new pump or just new seals?
I have paid to have the water pump replaced on my 1981 GL1100i a couple of times over the years, but I have the bike torn down mostly in my garage now, so I plan to do the repair myself. The water pump is around 8 years old, and I had no problem until I used the orange antifreeze from an auto parts store about a year ago. The container stated "no silicates" but almost immediately I started to get a few drops (antifreeze only) every time I parked the bike. It will continue to drip a little when it remains parked.
Having read the posts, I am unsure whether I should attempt to replace o-rings and seals or buy a new water pump. I also need to know everything to purchase either way I go. Also should I buy new hoses? I have never had a problem with the original hoses.
What is a safe antifreeze? Do I have to buy the Honda brand to avoid another seal/o-ring failure?
I failed to post on here after i fixed the bike so here it is. I purchased a honda pump and replaced it. It was a fairly involved procedure but not bad. definately a DIY job if you know your stuff. the old pump was definitely toast, but could have been rebuilt, however the new pump was easier to deal with. this forum is great guys, keep it up.
I always recommend a new pump. Getting to is pretty involved and rebuilds are iffy at best. Have a read of the Front Engine Renewal Project for the complete details. There are a number of other items that you'll want to address on your way into it.
There are several sources for all the parts that you'll need and our sponsor, Crescent Moon Cycles, is a very good one.
If you have a Honda car dealership you can buy it by the gallon. I know many others have used aftermarket stuff for years with no problems but I use OEM here.
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