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First off my bike had sadly sat for about 4 years in the garage. Ran fine when I put it up, when I started it up it ran but only at an idle, if you revel it up it would break up and if you tried to ride it, it would cut out and had no power almost like it was miss firing. Anyway I know it had sat for a while and thought it may be my carbs as I had used an expensive rebuild kit the last time I rebuilt it. I put the Randakk rebuild kit on it and when I went to fire it up the bike will only fire when the starter button is pressed. As soon as you release it, the bike dies. Any thoughts?

I meant to say I had used an inexpensive rebuild kit the last time I rebuilt it.

The bypass resister is open. Either short around it or replace it.

Sagebrush wrote:The bypass resister is open. Either short around it or replace it.

Or a connection in its circuit.

I think a weak battery could do that on a four-cylinder GL - Especially if you’re running electronic ignition. I know for a fact that the behavior you describe exactly happens when the Valkyrie has a weak battery.

It sounds like a problem in the ballast resistor circuit alright. You could bypass it as a test but don't leave it that way, you'll let the smoke out of your coils. If you have trouble, come back. A series of tests will locate the problem (you'd need a cheap multimeter). It would be a good idea to at least verify that your battery is good. NAPA will load test it for free.

Thanks guys, that may be the one thing I haven’t replaced on my bike. My battery is fairly new and was fully charged so the ballast resistor sounds like it may be the issue. Man, I tried searching for the issue before but nothing came up, but as soon as I put in a search for a ballast resistor the issue came right up on Randakk’s. I’ll try bypassing it to see if it works. Thanks again!!

Is there anywhere to get an OEM ballast resistor. I saw Randakk’s listed an aftermarket version but it looks like it wears your ignition parts quicker?

This is one of those times that you need to go to ebay. But first, make sure you need one! It is a pretty simple thing to test the resistance of it, and you will have to get in to access it if it needs replaced, anyway. Take the glove box out and snake your hand in there until you feel the two terminals. Make sure they are both securely seated. Hook up a clip lead to each (making sure you are on the terminal and not insulation) and hook the other ends to your multimeter. Should be ~3 ohms.

I've been running the Napa resistor for over a year now with no ill effects. What makes you think it would mess anything up?
It's been a while now but I did have to modify the resistor mount.....welding required.
I chucked the original coils and put on Dyna. If I'd had it together I'd'a got 5 ohm coils and chucked the ballast resistor into the neighbor's yard. In my humble, nay very humble, opinion, this is the way to go.

So not the rectifier? That's what mine was when it would fire as long as the starter button was held then die on release.

flyday58 wrote:So not the rectifier? That's what mine was when it would fire as long as the starter button was held then die on release.

Don't see how

Thanks for the additional info, I’ll do some testing this weekend to make sure the ballast resistor is toast. Terry - When I was reading about the resistor on Randakk’s I thought they mentioned something about the after market Napa resistor wearing components quicker than an OEM resistor, but if there isn’t anything else out there I’ll go that route. Then down the road I may save up to convert it to the Dyna. Thanks for all the suggestions!

You might consider Dyna 5 ohm coils and Hondaman ignition. That's what I have on my GL and CB. If you use 5 ohm coils, you can ditch the ballast resistor. With decent coils, you won't need the boost at startup.

Another possibility is to get a good used set of GL1500 coils and install 2 of them - no resistor required and you can usually get a set of 3 for less than half the price of one Dyna coil...