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ok so this is my first try at working on a bike beyond regular maintenance type of stuff. I've got a lowered GL1100 that the previous owner has short rear shocks on. I'm planning on putting 13" progressives on to get it back to normal height. Problem though -- I can't fit my motorcycle lift under the frame to lift it up cause the bike already sits too low.

So....how to I get the bike, or at least the rear end of the bike up so I can swap out the shocks? Could I use a car jack - either the scissors type or the hand pump type? What would I rest it under?

I don't know why my attached photos are coming in sideways - sorry. But you can see the height of the lowered lift is already higher than the frame and the exhausts.

Roll it onto a piece of 2 by.

if you have any exposed beams above you can lift it up in the air with ratchet straps

like mentioned above..roll it up on 2 pieces of 2x4. you will need another body to hold it up as the kick stand won't reach the floor

if this is still an issue, there is no need to use 2x4's, ceiling lifts, or other methods unless your ground clearance is less than 4". That blue jack will go lower than shown in the pic. When you use the jack to lift something, it clicks into a locking position that keeps it from returning all the way down.

this is easily fixed. while the jack is raised, lift the little handle (chrome with black end) up a click and then release the pneumatic pressure. The jack will lower all the way until the lifting platform is at the same level as the blue metal frame, roughly 4" off the floor.

Roll the lift under the bike and then place a board in the center portion of the lift so you are contacting the bottom of the engine rather than the exhaust

Seemed odd to me that lift wouldn’t go any lower in the first pic….good for you to help us all out in that info!

Id fit a suitable piece of wood under the fender, put the bike in gear, then stick a small scissor jack between the rear wheel and the wood.
Remove the bottom shock bolts, jack the bike up {or jack the wheel down}, then slide the new shocks in.

Thanks all - got it taken care of with the tips here!

Let me also advise thst you ratchet strap the engine to the lift. If for no other reason than peace of mind.

A lowered Goldwing is sure easier to roll around when seated, but a red flag goes off in my head from your first pic. Maybe tip the bike to each side and see how much lean it can take before hitting the ground. Keep in mind that the shocks and forks can compress on bumps in a cornering situation. Speed bumps you can usually go around if foreseen. I ran mine lowered a little but only scraped the pegs a few times. Not many twisties here.

ericheath wrote: ↑Thu Jul 22, 2021 8:32 am A lowered Goldwing is sure easier to roll around when seated, but a red flag goes off in my head from your first pic. Maybe tip the bike to each side and see how much lean it can take before hitting the ground. Keep in mind that the shocks and forks can compress on bumps in a cornering situation. Speed bumps you can usually go around if foreseen. I ran mine lowered a little but only scraped the pegs a few times. Not many twisties here.

Got some normal length shocks on the rear.....12.75". Now I just need to get Progressives in the forks. Researching how difficult that is for a 1 man job. It looks like I don't need to remove the forks?

its not a hard job, worst part of it is getting the fork caps back on against the spring pressure. Make sure the bike can't move when you do it, you don't want to push it off of your lift. Progressives are a one piece spring, stock springs are two piece.

kotkinjs1 wrote: ↑Thu Jul 22, 2021 11:00 am
Got some normal length shocks on the rear.....12.75". Now I just need to get Progressives in the forks. Researching how difficult that is for a 1 man job. It looks like I don't need to remove the forks?

Are you going to keep the air forks? If not consider adding traditional hex head fork caps. It will make getting the caps back on much easier against the spring force. You can use a normal long socket which provides a stable pushing spot.

The geometry of the air forks caps are not as easy to push against.

In either case, make sure you don't have a valuable gas tank behind your bike. Fork caps can easily become projectiles.