Got the motor up on the bench, replaced the cam sensors with a cherry hall sensor(did not realize that the ones I bought before required magnets until Red mentioned it).
Sensor is not 100% aligned with the wheel but it syncs good. I'll redo the mounting bracket later, this one is merely a prototype.
Not sure what happened to the threads of the hall sensor, the supplied nuts were a PITA to thread on. That's why it looks a bit mangled.
IMG_2581.jpg
Now I've never really been afflicted by tidiness, it is an ongoing project so the mess will probably only increase with time as well.
IMG_2580.jpg
The ECU has a built in oscilloscope where one can check the VR/hall sensor inputs. Trigger(brown) is the original VR sensor on the crank with the Honda 8-toothed wheel.
DIN 1 is the first digital input which I have assigned to the hall cam sensor.
trigger_oscilloscope.png
For now the crank is triggering on falling(always trigger a VR on the fastest side, my VR sensor drops the voltages much faster than it rises) and the cam on rising voltage(to get the cam to trigger within 20-80% of a crank trigger pulse).
This worked perfectly well with no sync losses when cranking.
Added an ignition coil(a sequential coil for 4cyl but only using one input/output atm) and connected a timing light to it, then all sync went out the window when trying to crank.
I had setup the coil on the bench right next to the hall sensor and the wiring from the VR sensor and the ignition system creates quite a bit of interference.
I tried to put as much distance as possible by having the coil on top of the motor and also a steel plate under it to shield the wiring. It is visible in the 2nd pic. This worked perfectly, at least with just one coil active, not sure how it will react with all 4. Also there is no shielding on the VR sensor leads(using original leads for now), there is a shield on the ECU side though, the hall sensor wiring is not shielded at all.
The way it is currently setup leaves me with these trigger angles(first tooth after the sync signal where the ignition and fueling will start)
260degrees BTDC1 F1 mark
270degrees BTDC1 T1 mark
So those to marks on the crank is exactly 10degrees apart, with the T1 mark being 0degrees and F1 being 10degrees advance.
At least that's what I guess.
I know Red had some issues with the timing in the past but I think you also came to the same conclusion.
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