So this guy walks into a chat room

[Fred Camper]

Sooner or later it will be gone, and if you are like me then you will scratch and wonder why that took so long.

[Graham Cracker]

Is this "burble" a miss at idle, or is it something like a sound coming from the exhaust?

[Cookie]

Miss at idle that makes the primary rattle.

[Whiskerfish]

Sorry I have not read the entire thread but is this points or electronic? Might check the condensor ground also try hooking up a battery charger at a trickle setting while it is running just to eliminate a low voltage situation?

[Cookie]

Its electronic.
This is what I've done so far.

I've been slowly testing this bike down looking for the remaining small burble.
So far it has been tested as such
New plugs and compression, 150, to 155 in all holes.
I did that vacuum test and got number three to run, but I'm not sure perfectly at idle.
I synced the carbs, that helped a bit.
Swapped carbs to the recently rebuilt 75s from the guy in San Jose. Now all holes are good and hot but still a burble.
Watered the ignition system at night and tested it with a firing pen. All firing, no leaks apparent, no change when water hits coils.
Tested with a propane torch for leaks.
Checked the advance.
Checked the timing.
Next up will be to sync the new carbs and see what I have.
Ran test wires to bypass ignition switch and resistor. By the way this bike has a relay and gets good voltage up there and full battery voltage to drive the electronic ignition. Ran test grounds.
Now I have the coils off and plan to swap in a set of Dyna coils, I hope to be a bit better in the next couple of days as I'm slowly improving.

[Cookie]

So this is how long I've been away from my bikes. I gave it an hour today and made up a few wires for the coil set. i noticed a couple of things First it is best to put the wires on the coils before installing the bracket as you can't get to a couple of wire screws. Second the yellow wire goes on the coil to the right, and ignition power plugs right in to the wire from the kill switch so to eliminate the resistor is easy. The positive coil side is the double connector and you can use either side of these coils for positive. I used the front as the positive wires are longer.

[sunnbobb]

LOL, I will bookmark the previous comment for future reference..

[Fred Camper]

I will just scan the previous 27 pages for previous comments in the future.

[Cookie]

I finally got around to finishing the coil installation, she fired right up and sounds good after the usual carb filling. I still have more checking to do before I feel she is done.

[Hoosier Daddy]

..she fired right up and sounds good after the usual carb filling...

Glad to hear it.... in more ways than one. First I am glad you got it sorted out AND that is exactly what I thought was going on with mine when first started. Seems like once the fuel pump has a chance to fill all the carb bowls she smooths right out. Interesting you mentioned it with the electric fuel pump though....

[Cookie]

I only have the electric pump on one bike, my red one with the Holley on it. The yellow bike and the two LTDs have new stock pumps.
The red bike is an instant starter with the Holley acellerator pump.
If I ever find a very tiny electric pump I might consider a booster pump for easier starting.

[Cookie]

Just a comment I wish to add, thanks to all you guys who recommended the Dyna set up, easy install and I think iit may have been a few weeks since I started it. She held fuel pretty well and started after one quick stall. The Dynas light it right up and cold idle is improved.

[Fred Camper]

Once she is warm, is the idle miss still occasional?

[Cookie]

Didn't seem to, but I can't take her for a ride and really warm her up. She is in better shape than I am.

[Brant]

but I can't take her for a ride and really warm her up. She is in better shape than I am.

Well Cookie, I guess that was more true than what we knew. God must have needed a good Chang guy. So this guy walks through the pearly gates...