Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

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bottona
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Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#1

Post by bottona »

Thanks to the following: (I am sure I’m forgetting someone, sorry)
Sandiegobrass: for original fantastic research!
Gltriker: for the most attractive idea, and least work and tools.
Ericheath: for the original photo, that I forgot too!
I am rebuilding a 76 LTD, and noticed I needed some new tensioner rollers, so I went thru your wonderful website and found a lot of really good research, Thank you all so very much! I have and want to keep the heat shields and spacer plate behind the bracket. So when I stumbled on gltriker’s great write-up, I thought, this will work real nicely, Thank you gltriker!
Anyway, here is my write up, hope it helps somebody out there.
Tools needed: Drill Press, 1/2" drill bit, 7/8” diameter 6-fluted 90 degree countersink bit, handheld grinder with thin cut-off wheel attached, 1/2” wood chisel, punch.
Roller and fasteners needed: (2) Gates T42015 idler rollers, (2) 10mm x 30mm lg 10.9 flat head screws, (2) 10mm nylon lock nuts.
BEGIN.jpg
Remove both roller brackets (photo by Ericheath).
DRILL.jpg
Use a 1/2” drill bit in a drill press and remove pressed section (hex shape) until drill bit bottoms out in the existing stud. Notice this photo is actually incorrect, I forgot to take a photo of the drilling on the countersunk side of the bracket.
CHISEL.jpg
Use a wood chisel to pry idler away from bracket as shown. To reduce any bending of the bracket, Use the wood chisel because the ramp gives a good pry angle, the sharp end should not hit hard against the idler shaft.
PUNCH.jpg
Punch the idler shaft out of the bracket the rest of the way.
CHAMFER-TOOL.jpg
HF has a 90 degree chamfer tool, cheap, but looked like it wouldn’t cut metal. So call your local machine shop retailer, and find this chamfer tool. $15.00 and made in the states. 1/2" shank so it will work in a small drill press. 90 degree is the standard countersink angle for metric fasteners (as compared to 82 degrees for SAE countersunk screws).

More to come...
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Cheers, Albert
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bottona
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Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#2

Post by bottona »

To continue...
CHAMFER.jpg
Set your drill press speed to its slowest setting, then cut the chamfer in the bracket, cutting the chamfer in the same place and on the same side as the original chamfer. Cut down deep enough to make the flat head screw sit just under the top surface of the bracket. Use some cutting fluid if you have it about. Slow going at the end of the cut.
CSK.jpg
This is the countersunk hole you should end up with.
CHAMFER-FIN.jpg
Chamfer finished in both pieces, notice they are the same, not left and right handed. That happens at engine mounting time. Smart design for commonality of parts.

More to come...
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Cheers, Albert
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bottona
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Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#3

Post by bottona »

To continue...
TURN.jpg
Gltriker noted that the conical portion of the flat head screw will be too deep (THANK YOU). So lightly chuck up the screw in your drill press, then carefully cut excess depth out using a hand held grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. Refer to drawing below:
REMOVE.jpg
Drawing showing material to remove from flat head screw.
TURN-FIN.jpg
More to come...
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Cheers, Albert
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bottona
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Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#4

Post by bottona »

To continue...
LOOSE PARTS.jpg
Loose parts ready to assemble
ASSY-FRONT.jpg
Front view of assembled rollers
ASSY-BACK.jpg
Back view of assembled rollers.

Hope this helps someone out there. This was my exercise to see what I could do in my garage with simple tools.
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Cheers, Albert
Gowing
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#5

Post by Gowing »

Really great tutorial bottona, I think it's the best I've read! Thank you.
Dave

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#6

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Great job. Did this as well. Way less expensive then buying new from Honda.

Cheers
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Toehead
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#7

Post by Toehead »

Nice finished product! I like that better than what I did, which was to use a dome head screw that required me to leave out the heat shield. Your way is much slicker.
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gltriker
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#8

Post by gltriker »

WELL DONE. The best documentation of all methods I've seen, too! :oldies

If I'd had a good drill press, myself, this would have been a perfect alternative to undercut the screws' taper without getting my perfectionist machinist buddy involved, too. tumb2
Cliff ;) )

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday. tumb2

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^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^ :oldies

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi tumb2
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bottona
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#9

Post by bottona »

Thx for the compliments everyone, drawings are easy for me as it's my job in real life.

My buddy has a lathe, but I thought I'd like to try it with the tools at hand.
Cheers, Albert
canuckxxx
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#10

Post by canuckxxx »

Is there a car that those Gates T42015 idler rollers fit?
1982 GL1100 Naked
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bottona
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#11

Post by bottona »

1997 to 2008 Kia and hyundai 1.8L, per the earlier research done by sandiegobrass (Thank you).
Cheers, Albert
canuckxxx
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement

#12

Post by canuckxxx »

OK thanks
1982 GL1100 Naked
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