Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
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- bottona
- Zinc Member
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- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Thanks to the following: (I am sure I’m forgetting someone, sorry)
Sandiegobrass: for original fantastic research!
Gltriker: for the most attractive idea, and least work and tools.
Ericheath: for the original photo, that I forgot too!
I am rebuilding a 76 LTD, and noticed I needed some new tensioner rollers, so I went thru your wonderful website and found a lot of really good research, Thank you all so very much! I have and want to keep the heat shields and spacer plate behind the bracket. So when I stumbled on gltriker’s great write-up, I thought, this will work real nicely, Thank you gltriker!
Anyway, here is my write up, hope it helps somebody out there.
Tools needed: Drill Press, 1/2" drill bit, 7/8” diameter 6-fluted 90 degree countersink bit, handheld grinder with thin cut-off wheel attached, 1/2” wood chisel, punch.
Roller and fasteners needed: (2) Gates T42015 idler rollers, (2) 10mm x 30mm lg 10.9 flat head screws, (2) 10mm nylon lock nuts. Remove both roller brackets (photo by Ericheath).
Use a 1/2” drill bit in a drill press and remove pressed section (hex shape) until drill bit bottoms out in the existing stud. Notice this photo is actually incorrect, I forgot to take a photo of the drilling on the countersunk side of the bracket.
Use a wood chisel to pry idler away from bracket as shown. To reduce any bending of the bracket, Use the wood chisel because the ramp gives a good pry angle, the sharp end should not hit hard against the idler shaft.
Punch the idler shaft out of the bracket the rest of the way.
HF has a 90 degree chamfer tool, cheap, but looked like it wouldn’t cut metal. So call your local machine shop retailer, and find this chamfer tool. $15.00 and made in the states. 1/2" shank so it will work in a small drill press. 90 degree is the standard countersink angle for metric fasteners (as compared to 82 degrees for SAE countersunk screws).
More to come...
Sandiegobrass: for original fantastic research!
Gltriker: for the most attractive idea, and least work and tools.
Ericheath: for the original photo, that I forgot too!
I am rebuilding a 76 LTD, and noticed I needed some new tensioner rollers, so I went thru your wonderful website and found a lot of really good research, Thank you all so very much! I have and want to keep the heat shields and spacer plate behind the bracket. So when I stumbled on gltriker’s great write-up, I thought, this will work real nicely, Thank you gltriker!
Anyway, here is my write up, hope it helps somebody out there.
Tools needed: Drill Press, 1/2" drill bit, 7/8” diameter 6-fluted 90 degree countersink bit, handheld grinder with thin cut-off wheel attached, 1/2” wood chisel, punch.
Roller and fasteners needed: (2) Gates T42015 idler rollers, (2) 10mm x 30mm lg 10.9 flat head screws, (2) 10mm nylon lock nuts. Remove both roller brackets (photo by Ericheath).
Use a 1/2” drill bit in a drill press and remove pressed section (hex shape) until drill bit bottoms out in the existing stud. Notice this photo is actually incorrect, I forgot to take a photo of the drilling on the countersunk side of the bracket.
Use a wood chisel to pry idler away from bracket as shown. To reduce any bending of the bracket, Use the wood chisel because the ramp gives a good pry angle, the sharp end should not hit hard against the idler shaft.
Punch the idler shaft out of the bracket the rest of the way.
HF has a 90 degree chamfer tool, cheap, but looked like it wouldn’t cut metal. So call your local machine shop retailer, and find this chamfer tool. $15.00 and made in the states. 1/2" shank so it will work in a small drill press. 90 degree is the standard countersink angle for metric fasteners (as compared to 82 degrees for SAE countersunk screws).
More to come...
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Cheers, Albert
- bottona
- Zinc Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
To continue...
Set your drill press speed to its slowest setting, then cut the chamfer in the bracket, cutting the chamfer in the same place and on the same side as the original chamfer. Cut down deep enough to make the flat head screw sit just under the top surface of the bracket. Use some cutting fluid if you have it about. Slow going at the end of the cut.
This is the countersunk hole you should end up with.
Chamfer finished in both pieces, notice they are the same, not left and right handed. That happens at engine mounting time. Smart design for commonality of parts.
More to come...
Set your drill press speed to its slowest setting, then cut the chamfer in the bracket, cutting the chamfer in the same place and on the same side as the original chamfer. Cut down deep enough to make the flat head screw sit just under the top surface of the bracket. Use some cutting fluid if you have it about. Slow going at the end of the cut.
This is the countersunk hole you should end up with.
Chamfer finished in both pieces, notice they are the same, not left and right handed. That happens at engine mounting time. Smart design for commonality of parts.
More to come...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Cheers, Albert
- bottona
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- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
To continue...
Gltriker noted that the conical portion of the flat head screw will be too deep (THANK YOU). So lightly chuck up the screw in your drill press, then carefully cut excess depth out using a hand held grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. Refer to drawing below:
Drawing showing material to remove from flat head screw.
More to come...
Gltriker noted that the conical portion of the flat head screw will be too deep (THANK YOU). So lightly chuck up the screw in your drill press, then carefully cut excess depth out using a hand held grinder with a thin cut-off wheel. Refer to drawing below:
Drawing showing material to remove from flat head screw.
More to come...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Cheers, Albert
- bottona
- Zinc Member
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
To continue...
Loose parts ready to assemble
Front view of assembled rollers
Back view of assembled rollers.
Hope this helps someone out there. This was my exercise to see what I could do in my garage with simple tools.
Loose parts ready to assemble
Front view of assembled rollers
Back view of assembled rollers.
Hope this helps someone out there. This was my exercise to see what I could do in my garage with simple tools.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Cheers, Albert
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- True Blue Steel Biker
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Really great tutorial bottona, I think it's the best I've read! Thank you.
Dave
1975 GL 1000
1980 XS650
1981 ct110
1972 F7 KAW 175
2000 moby blaze 40cc
Chihuahua (Ellie)
Chihuahua #2(Blaze)
1975 GL 1000
1980 XS650
1981 ct110
1972 F7 KAW 175
2000 moby blaze 40cc
Chihuahua (Ellie)
Chihuahua #2(Blaze)
- Rednaxs60
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Great job. Did this as well. Way less expensive then buying new from Honda.
Cheers
Cheers
"When writing the Story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen."
Ernest
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT LE
2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan (sold)
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition (sold)
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 Limited Edition (sold)
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ernest
1985 GL1200 Limited Edition
2014 Can-Am Spyder RT LE
2021 Royal Enfield Himalayan (sold)
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition (sold)
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 Limited Edition (sold)
2008 GL1800 (sold)
- Toehead
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Nice finished product! I like that better than what I did, which was to use a dome head screw that required me to leave out the heat shield. Your way is much slicker.
2012 Golf TDI, fast and frugal oil burner
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
'81 GL1100 14,000 (reconditioned and sold)
'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
'76 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow (Megasquirted efi build) http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59774
1980 CX500C, All around road warrior (Sold)
1975 TS125 (Sold), old smoker
1977 naked GL1000, Highway cruiser
'81 GL1100 14,000 (reconditioned and sold)
'81 GL1100 50,000 miles (under construction)
2X 1981 CM400 beginner bike (sold)
1980 CB750C (sold)
1994 Virago 750 (Wifey's bike)
'76 GL1000 Sulphur Yellow (Megasquirted efi build) http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=59774
- gltriker
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
WELL DONE. The best documentation of all methods I've seen, too!
If I'd had a good drill press, myself, this would have been a perfect alternative to undercut the screws' taper without getting my perfectionist machinist buddy involved, too.

If I'd had a good drill press, myself, this would have been a perfect alternative to undercut the screws' taper without getting my perfectionist machinist buddy involved, too.

Cliff
)
Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.
New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^
RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi
"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing
"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT
Me Too!!
Cliff
'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM
https://nakedgoldwingsclub.com/forum/page/Welcome
previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.

Keep your eyes and ears open and you'll learn something new, everyday.

New users please visit our "Shop Talk" for common tips and help: <---jdvorchak
http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/page/ST
^^^^^^^click up here^^^^^

RE: a thorough fuel tank cleaning
"And your carbs will thank you. They no longer live down stream from a sewage plant." -gregforesi

"Can't see the paint when your looking thru the handlebars..........." -Oldewing

"I'd rather Ride than Shine" -RAT

Cliff
'75 GL1000 home built trike; http://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=39996
October,2017 BOTM

previous rides:
1953 H-D Servi-car, naked, 1969-1978 (serial#53G1559 committed to memory!)
1980 CB900 Custom (triked) 1997-2003 .... R.I.P.
- bottona
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- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Thx for the compliments everyone, drawings are easy for me as it's my job in real life.
My buddy has a lathe, but I thought I'd like to try it with the tools at hand.
My buddy has a lathe, but I thought I'd like to try it with the tools at hand.
Cheers, Albert
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Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
Is there a car that those Gates T42015 idler rollers fit?
1982 GL1100 Naked
- bottona
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- Joined: Fri May 23, 2008 1:38 pm
- Location: Marion, Iowa
Re: Timing belt tensioner roller replacement
1997 to 2008 Kia and hyundai 1.8L, per the earlier research done by sandiegobrass (Thank you).
Cheers, Albert
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