7V Regulator

cross over parts from other wings, hondas, or any other parts sources that can be used on our wings.

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Ruffrider
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It works great!

Post #16 by Ruffrider » Sat Jun 20, 2009 12:25 am

Thanks Mike for the great schematic and pics. Installed one today on my 75. I had to bone up on my soldering skills though. This solution is a lot less cumbersome than dealing with a POT. Oh by the way, nice bike you got there. :-D
Current Bikes I own:
1975 GL1000 Naked Wing, Old Faithful (alias the Ditch Dog)
(88,000 miles and broke down now)
1975 GL1000 Dresser ( project bike, still waiting for me to finish) 20,727k on speedo.
1979 XS1100sf (18,600 miles)
1984 CT110 2300 miles
1978 CT (Trail) 90 1,650 miles on speedo
Past Bikes:
1979 750 Kawasaki LTD
1976 Honda CB360
1975 Honda 400 four
1966 Honda 160 Dream (should've keep 'em all )
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torgo
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Post #17 by torgo » Sat Jun 20, 2009 2:27 am

You can buy a 7V Regulator from Mouser http://www.mouser.com/ part number 755-BA17807T This eliminates all the resistors and most soldering.
IT'S ALL COMING BACK TO ME NOW!!

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Mike Toon
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Post #18 by Mike Toon » Sat Jun 20, 2009 11:49 am

True there are 7V regulators available, but being impulsive I wanted to make one in a few minutes and had the parts. I love Mouser, their no minimum order and quick shipping though.

These parts are available at Radio Shack for someone that doesn't want to wait for mail order. National Semiconductor LM317 regulators have a nice feature, if overheats it will shut down. Recovers when cools down.
Last edited by Mike Toon on Mon Dec 06, 2010 2:32 am, edited 1 time in total.
Current Bikes
1981 GL1100 Naked
2004 KLR650
1988 KLR650
2001 DR650
1997 DR350
1984 XL350
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doncoyote11
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7v Regulator

Post #19 by doncoyote11 » Mon Jul 27, 2009 12:43 am

Last year I installed a 6v regulator from the dashboard of an early 80's or seventies Ford. They have an adjusting screw on the back so it can be changed to 7v. These units don't actually change the voltage to 7v, but rather pulse the 12 v to simulate the 7v.
I filled the tank and adjusted the regulator till it read full. Also the unit MUST be grounded, (I burned my first one up).
These can be picked up from a self-serve junkyard for a buck or two.
1976 GL1000
1982 CM450

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Post #20 by 78AZWing » Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:44 am

Nice hinge pin!
For that run-down feeling -
Try Jaywalking!

1978 'Wing with Weber conversion, UnDressed
1976 Junkyard 'Wing with a Dyna ignition. Otherwise undressed.

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Post #21 by 78AZWing » Wed Nov 25, 2009 11:45 am

torgo wrote:You can buy a 7V Regulator from Mouser http://www.mouser.com/ part number 755-BA17807T This eliminates all the resistors and most soldering.


OOOH! :shock: Toy Store!
For that run-down feeling -
Try Jaywalking!

1978 'Wing with Weber conversion, UnDressed
1976 Junkyard 'Wing with a Dyna ignition. Otherwise undressed.

Proud member of the "NGW CARTEL"

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Post #22 by rdurost » Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:23 pm

Mike Toon wrote:Satisfied it worked, I gutted the old regulator and used epoxy putty to fill and hold things together. Installed back in stock place.

I had the parts, but bought at Radio Shack, about $3.00

Image


Can we have an update on this? I used to be an electronics technician before I got into computers, and all the three-terminal regulators like this that I used generated a substantial amount of heat. I wouldn't expect them to last if they didn't use a heat sink, let alone were potted in epoxy.

Richard
1977 "GL1000-F Super Sport"
1969 Le Mans with 500 Cadillac engine
1989 5.0 Mustang

"Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without!"
"Be kinder than necessary because everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle"
"A stock goldwing horn will startle a sleeping cat on the seat. Not enough that he will jump off, but it makes him put his head up and open his eyes." - Cookie
"All machines talk....you just have to listen." - Frank, the Crazy Mofo

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Post #23 by Mike Toon » Tue Dec 15, 2009 4:33 pm

I never experienced any excess heat. Warm but not hot. I ran it for a day, checking it often, then enclosed it. Ran almost a year without problems, then sold the bike.
Current Bikes
1981 GL1100 Naked
2004 KLR650
1988 KLR650
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Post #24 by Dave_J » Sat Dec 26, 2009 4:08 pm

I have done a few of these for old Mopars that require 5 Volts for the gages. I also used some capisators to remove some of the ripple pulse to make the gages more steady. The old points voltage regulator on these old cars were very ripple pulsed and you could see the gages quiver.

These Transistors need a heat sinc to cool them down. They will be more steady when kept cool. Hope they burn out open and not closed. Open means no voltage, closed means a full 12 Volts hitting your gages. I'd just use a dielectric glue to glue an alumumn heat sinc on the back. DaveJ
Retired US ARMY Signal
Old Mopars TT 65 B-Cuda in the works, 78 Dodge LRT with 425 HP 360
80 GL-1100 Faux Interstate
03 Suzuki Burgman 650 Supersized Scooter - Darksided Potenza Car Tire on the rear

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Re: 7V Regulator

Post #25 by Composed » Tue Jul 06, 2010 7:10 pm

Dave_J wrote:I have done a few of these for old Mopars that require 5 Volts for the gages. I also used some capisators to remove some of the ripple pulse to make the gages more steady. The old points voltage regulator on these old cars were very ripple pulsed and you could see the gages quiver.

These Transistors need a heat sink to cool them down. They will be more steady when kept cool. Hope they burn out open and not closed. Open means no voltage, closed means a full 12 Volts hitting your gages. I'd just use a dielectric glue to glue an alumumn heat sinc on the back. DaveJ


I was very happy and amazed to find this thread after driving to my local dealership and finding that the 7 volt regulator at today's price is $155.89 before tax. I drove to my local Radio Shack and found that the parts for this project were only a little over $5.50, so building this regulator appears to be a no brainer.

Dave J, do you have any suggestions as to the proper protection in case the transistor was to fail open. I'm assuming that there are fuses in this range that can be placed inline, but do you have any suggestions? What type of capacitors do you think should be used with this regulator?
Glenn

1979 GL1000
Amateur Radio Station AA5SS

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Re: 7V Regulator

Post #26 by matalex60 » Fri Aug 27, 2010 6:10 pm

I just ordered this setup from dimension engineering. What, if anything, do I need to do to make the voltage adjustments? Can I just install it fill the gas tank and adjust to read full, and cold for the temp side?
Matalex

Current Bikes:
1975 GL 1000 Bobber
1979 GL 1000 Full Vetter
1977 GL1000 Resto project
GL1100 Drag Bike Project

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Re: 7V Regulator

Post #27 by rdurost » Sat Aug 28, 2010 9:16 pm

matalex60 wrote:I just ordered this setup from dimension engineering. What, if anything, do I need to do to make the voltage adjustments? Can I just install it fill the gas tank and adjust to read full, and cold for the temp side?


I'd start by just adjusting it to 7V no-load before installing it, then tweaking it to attain 7V under load. Once you're there, if the gauges are in the ballpark I'd ride it for a while before making any further adjustments.

Richard
1977 "GL1000-F Super Sport"
1969 Le Mans with 500 Cadillac engine
1989 5.0 Mustang

"Use it up, wear it out, make it do, or do without!"
"Be kinder than necessary because everyone you meet is fighting some kind of battle"
"A stock goldwing horn will startle a sleeping cat on the seat. Not enough that he will jump off, but it makes him put his head up and open his eyes." - Cookie
"All machines talk....you just have to listen." - Frank, the Crazy Mofo

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Re: 7V Regulator

Post #28 by matalex60 » Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:53 am

Not to sound like a retard, but how do I make the proper adjustments for no load and underload?
Matalex

Current Bikes:
1975 GL 1000 Bobber
1979 GL 1000 Full Vetter
1977 GL1000 Resto project
GL1100 Drag Bike Project

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Re: 7V Regulator

Post #29 by Cookie » Mon Sep 06, 2010 1:23 pm

The ones I made did not need adjustment. One leg controls the voltage output and the resistance it gets is the control. If folks have spec ed the proper components and you installed them right you should come out about right. There are also adjustable regulators you can buy that are a bit more expensive.
Enjoy life,
Cookie


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Mike Toon
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Re:

Post #30 by Mike Toon » Mon Sep 06, 2010 2:03 pm

rdurost wrote:Can we have an update on this? I used to be an electronics technician before I got into computers, and all the three-terminal regulators like this that I used generated a substantial amount of heat.


Well, you being an electronics technician and me being a plumber, should know better than I. It's been a few years and I'm told mine is still working just fine. The fuel gauge draws very little current. My advice is to make one from RS parts and try it. For the price of a cheeseburger your gauge could be working this afternoon.
Current Bikes
1981 GL1100 Naked
2004 KLR650
1988 KLR650
2001 DR650
1997 DR350
1984 XL350
2002 CB919


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