My 77 project that will turn into a cafe racer/ Bobber with a kick

[ericheath]

On my next one, I'm doing the exhaust valves too. They're the same size, but come in at a different angle on the the 1000. The 1000 piston has a pretty big recess for them. Mine is still doing fine without it, but the next one the head is going to be shaved to 0.040". The extra space will defeat the head shave some, but I want a little more room on the exhaust for peace of mind. The other difference on my two motors is that the 1200 piston face comes proud of the top of the block 0.040" while the 1000 piston face stays down 0.040"

I hope you post what clearances you get for intake and exhaust.
This is from RebelRouser in Shoptalk

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[wingrider]

Yea, I knew you said you were going more aggressive this next time. These heads that are going on had .009" taken off to get them flat.

I may have somehow screwed up the clay deal...think I kept the clay to thick, so it didn't really play nice. Good news is I didn't hit any valves. The ones that worked out were about .040, so I opened up all of them a little more for good measure. The heads I am using to test haven't been shaved down, so I needed to take that into consideration.

[wingrider]

Allrighty, I redid the clay test, and came up with some good numbers. I used the same head gasket side to side for as close to exact test as I could get. I also unpackaged the heads that Robin worked over for me...gotta say, he does excellent work, and packing is second to none!

Anyways, the results...

Cylinder #1
I: .100
E: .079

#2
I: .150
E: .095

#3
I: .104
E: .101

#4
I: .115
E: .112

So, the way I see it, I have plenty of room, which is a relief. I do believe I took out a bit more than I needed to, but safer this way.

[ericheath]

Should be good to go.

[wingrider]

I figure I should update this after this long. Little things have been happening around that has kicked my butt into gear and I started working on this again.

Many of you will recall that I had gold forks on it earlier in its life. Well, those got pulled off and went to a different project (The Suzi 550) and these took their place.

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I also started back on the engine. Got the block faces cleaned up, and installed the studs.

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Now I am waiting for one last nut I forgot to order, and I can install the heads. I have the output shaft I need to change out to get the driveshaft to hook up, but I need to pop the rear cover off and put it in. Then we can finish prepping the engine for paint, and make her pretty again.

[wingrider]

Good day all!

Today I pulled the back cover off this 1200 block to do a couple things....

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One of the things needed to convert a 1200 engine into a 1000 frame, specifically, using the 1000 rear end and driveshaft, is to change out the output shaft to one from a 1000, as it has a snap ring to hold the driveshaft in place. All you have to do is pull the old shaft out, and slip the 1000 one into the gear, and slide it into place.

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One of the other things I needed to do while in there was to cut the shaft off for the ignition. Being this is an 84 engine, this needs to be done, as it protrudes out the back of the engine. This projection interferes with a cross member on the 1000 frame. Other year 1200's had this ignition module in a different location which didn't interfere with the frame. Here is how much I needed to cut off.

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Now that that is done, we could put it all back together, and you can see how the shaft I cut is now almost flush with the rear case, but still rests on the case so as to not cause issue.

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Now I can make a cover to fit over this shaft, and on to the heads!

[CYBORG]

Might want to make some measurements on the rear cover. The cover with the cooling fins is bit longer then the plain one longer, or deeper, is as I recall. And can be a little to large for the frame. Might want to use a plain one

[wingrider]

You may be correct...I will take a look that before I stick it in the frame. Thanks for the suggestion!

[wingrider]

Alrighty, ran out and measured both engines I have. From the gasket to the edge of the rear most spot on the case, (minus the stator grommet) I found the 84 engine to be 4 3/8" deep, and the 85 EFI engine was 4 3/4".

So, it seems that it will most likely fit. Back when I was trying to figure out if the EFI engine would go into the 78, Old Fogey had contacted me that Cyborg's Raptor engine was in fact an EFI block, which seemed to fit with hairs to spare.

[CYBORG]

mine is NOT an EFI block. and has no fins.
the rear cover touches the frame, but does not rub. I even ground a little off of the cover to make it a TIGHT fit Measure twice,....cut once. The difference between the two, in my opinion, will be enough to cause a problem for the larger one,...though be it a minor problem. Dig up a picture of mine, and you will see how tight it is

[wingrider]

Ha ha! John swore that one was a EFI! I know the fella that built B-girl on Saunders site used an 84, but unfortunately, all his pictures are gone...so I can't take another look at his. John had sent me a shot of how close that one is....will have to dig it up, and see if I can post it for others to see.

[wingrider]

Here is the shot John sent me....



He did claim that there were three different covers...the ribbed one for the 84's, then the rest were smooth, although he thought the EFI was deeper to accept the larger stator.

So, now I would be interested to know how deep a smooth, non EFI 1200 rear cover is?

Anyone have one they could measure? From the gasket out would be great!

[ericheath]

Mine was an 85 carb model and I ground 1/4" out of the cover and still required a little love from the hammer on the frame. I'm guessing the frame jigs at the factory varied that much.

[wingrider]

I do believe you are correct...the jigs were just a touch different, which gave some slightly different spaces.

[wingrider]

Well, today was the day I decided to make the cover for where the ignition parts were. Had an abandoned chunk of aluminum plate that was used on a different project, so that was the donor. I have seen this method of making a pattern before, but never tried it.

I took the plate and rough cut it to size of the piece I was going to copy, cut a chunk of plywood to match, and also a small sheet of gasket material and bolted the whole mess together.

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Once that was done, I strapped my little router table to a make shift table, and tossed in a straight cut bit with a ball bearing on the end. The idea of using the bearing is to follow the part you want to mimic, but not cut it. Here was the result of my efforts.

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Took it all apart, and gently sanded the edges to smooth them out, and laid it out to show how everything looks.

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I just hung it on the back of the engine, need to get some shorter bolts to actually hold it on, but it seems it was a success!!!

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That's all for today! Getting anxious to put this in the frame to see how it fits!