'77 GL1000 "semi-cafe" project

[datsunfreak]

I've been in this guy's shop 100 times and seen this dusty/crusty old thing ('77 GL1000 Goldwing) in the corner and always wanted to ask if it was for sale...




Well, a few weeks back I finally did break down and ask. He said, "yeah, we're about to move the shop next month, and I don't want to haul it across town, so make me an offer". After offering an amount so shockingly low that I thought it would get me punched in the face, he said yes. So I loaded it up and took it home.


He said he wasn't sure if it would run or not since how it sat was exactly how he bought it, dusty and unused. Upside of that is that it only has 36k miles, which seems fairly low for a Goldwing. All the others I saw for sale were in the 50-60k range, which hopefully means I still have at least another 30k miles to go on this engine...

For giggles, I went ahead and replaced the battery (figured I needed to anyway), and put fresh gas in. It fired up within the first 3-4 seconds of cranking, and settled into a fairly smooth idle. Revs very nice too.

All the lights work, the brakes work good, and it rides like a brand new bike. Well, like a brand new 35-year-old bike, anyway.

After a really good scrubbing:




When I fired it up it sounded REALLY mean, kinda like a Harley with a proper crankshaft design. And when I looked underneath I could see why. There were holes in the bottom of the mufflers. The next day I swung back by the shop where I got it and spoke with the guy I bought it from (he's a huge Goldwing collector) and he said, "yeah, you can't get those mufflers any more. They quit making them, but here, take this box". When I open the big heavy box I see there's a complete NOS Honda exhaust in it, from cylinder head to chrome tip.

New exhaust on:




More pics here:

http://www.510garage.com/photos/thumbnails.php?album=320

[gregforesi]

There will be a lot of jealousy here among the stock folks because of that exhaust.
It looks really good. Somebody must have put some time into the bike since it runs decent and the brakes work.
Nice find.

[datsunfreak]

Short term plans are as follows:

Respray. Yes it's in very good original nick as is. So I took the time to acquire a complete set of "tins". I'm going to repsray those, and mothball these original bits.

Thinking of something like this scheme:




And a seat like this:

[datsunfreak]

There will be a lot of jealousy here among the stock folks because of that exhaust.
It looks really good.

They may get their wish.

It won't be on the bike long term. I'll either take it off and store it, or sell it.

My original intent was to keep all the stock parts that come off for future return back to stock, but me selling this bike down the road seems less and less likely.

Somebody must have put some time into the bike since it runs decent and the brakes work...

P.O. said the bike got a set of rebuilt 1100 carbs just before I bought it. It was never fired after they were installed. Seem to work great so far, but I'll make sure they are in the best possible tune soon.

[gregforesi]

Take a look in the fuel tank. If it's rusted up that should be job #1 or stuff will migrate into the carbs.

[datsunfreak]

Take a look in the fuel tank. If it's rusted up that should be job #1 or stuff will migrate into the carbs.

Already did. It was good to go.

But thanks for the tip.

[phillip0123]

Looking at the second picture those are not 1100 carbs they are gl1000 carbs, the 1100 does not have the buttons on top. You would have to look on top of the carb body at the 3digit code stamped on it to determine what year they are for.
That is one fine looking bike, looks like you scored a nice one.

[datsunfreak]

Looking at the second picture those are not 1100 carbs they are gl1000 carbs, the 1100 does not have the buttons on top.

Good to know. This is my first GL, and only had what the PO told me to go on, so...

You would have to look on top of the carb body at the 3digit code stamped on it to determine what year they are for.

Will do.

Is this something I can see without removing the airbox?

[datsunfreak]

Also, only other modification I have planned for now (after paint and seat) is some lower bars, perhaps the "superbike" bars?

[robin1731]

I'm surprised no one has said it. Change the timing belts. Even if it got new ones before storage they have sat in the same position for a number of years.

And it does look pretty nice.

[datsunfreak]

I'm surprised no one has said it. Change the timing belts. Even if it got new ones before storage they have sat in the same position for a number of years.

It's been said to me about 5 times in other threads, but thanks.

And I did check the condition of the rubber on the belts before firing it up. They are in good shape but will be changed anyway.

New timing belts is on my fall/winter to-do list, including radiator flush and new radiator hoses, all fluids changed, new tires, new spark plugs (already did new points), fix minor oil leak on clutch cover, new fuel lines and fuel pump (works good, but leaking from weeper hole), valve adjustment, and whatever comes up between now and then.

After doing all that, and the cosmetic upgrades, it should be just about where I want it by next spring.

[robin1731]

The belts can look new but break the next time it is fired. Don't mean to alarm you but thats just the way they work. And if you break a belt you will bend at least one valve.

Look in our crossover section and get the part numbers for belts from NAPA or your auto parts store of choice. I got some for an 1100 recently at NAPA. Same belt number as the 1000. They were less than $14 each.

[datsunfreak]

Look in our crossover section and get the part numbers for belts from NAPA or your auto parts store of choice. I got some for an 1100 recently at NAPA. Same belt number as the 1000. They were less than $14 each.

Got it. Will pick them up this weekend.

Are the idlers also usually replaced at belt changing time? Didn't see a part number listed for the idlers.

Only done timing belts on cars, never a bike.

[reidransom]

Glad I could help you find a seat

Cherry looking bike, can't wait to see how it comes along.

[gregforesi]

Superbike bars are a good choice. Anything lower and the bars/switch housings will start to interfere with the shelter. Not sure on the early models but I had issues with the drag bars (and then the clubman bars) on my '78. I ended up shortening the steering stops on the front end.
I did manage to route the stock throttle cable (only 1 on the Webers) but a 6" shorter clutch cable was required to make a nice run to the back of the engine. If the clutch cable isn't routed nicely the effort at the clutch handle can be a bear.