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Say hello to ‘Dixie’

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sphen
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#61

Post by sphen »

CYBORG wrote: Mon Dec 06, 2021 3:17 pm I've moved most of my choke levers. For me, that location would be to low to reach comfortably.

It’s not bad for me, but would love to see what others have done - what’s your approach?
Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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CYBORG
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#62

Post by CYBORG »

o n my 1000 I mounted a platr on the frame , left side, across from, and at the height of the choke on the engine, and installed a shortened cable. On my 1200, right hand frame, bracket in line with chole lever, used a 1000 choke cable, shortened. And in both cases, choke can be disengaged, while riding, with my knee
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#63

Post by sphen »

Some minor progress. I’ve taken on the task of converting the “tank” to standard via fiberglass. Still quite a bit of refining to do, and may I say these are some disproportionally bulky looking tanks on the 1200s…
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Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#64

Post by wingrider »

Good approach to fixing the tank, but how are you going to put fuel in it? Traditional cap with a hose down to the actual tank?
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#65

Post by sphen »

wingrider wrote: Fri Dec 31, 2021 10:23 am Good approach to fixing the tank, but how are you going to put fuel in it? Traditional cap with a hose down to the actual tank?
I had thought about that - it would look clean, but my concern is it would make it trickier to remove the shelter for service.

Current plan is to use an access door - maybe something like you’d see in a keep, recessed into the fibreglass surface
Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#66

Post by sphen »

CYBORG wrote: Mon Dec 06, 2021 5:49 pm o n my 1000 I mounted a platr on the frame , left side, across from, and at the height of the choke on the engine, and installed a shortened cable. On my 1200, right hand frame, bracket in line with chole lever, used a 1000 choke cable, shortened. And in both cases, choke can be disengaged, while riding, with my knee
Cyborg - i took apart a choke cable to see if i can shorten it - can you share some insight (or a link) on the proper way to do this? The inner cable has a flat metal wrap that is proving difficult to accurately "strip" to the right length, then i need to be able to undo and recrimp the ferrule at the end of the sheathing for solid grip at the carb mount.
Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#67

Post by CYBORG »

I used a standard choke cable, mounted to an aluminum plate attached to the frame on the left front of the bike. I cut off the barrel end that fits into the lever on the engine. Then removed the inter cable from the cover. Measure the distance from the plate to the engine mount for the cable, and cut th outer cable so thst it will clamp in the engine mount. The metal piece, that is actually clamped by the bracket, can be remover, and attached to the end of the shortened outer cable where it attaches to the engine bracket. Install the inter cable, and cut it off just beyond where it reaches the lever, when pushed in as far as it will go . They make small brass inserts that will fit into the actually lever, that have a small hole thru them for the cable, secured with a small screw. However I used a small bolt with a hole drilled both thru, and across the bolt. Basicly a hollow bolt with a hole for the wire drilled across it. Determine the position of the bolt while in the lever, and fill the other hole with solder to secure the cable to it. grind off, and smooth the excess cable end. All the cable cutting was done with a cut off wheel. Hope this helps. These are things that I "just do", with little thinking, so can be a little hard for me to explain
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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CYBORG
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#68

Post by CYBORG »

I might add, this is done with an early cable, not the stock 1200 cable. I use the type normally mounted in the center of the handle bars
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
sphen
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#69

Post by sphen »

So I have a handful of cosmetic/aesthetic questions for you faithful followers (opinions most welcome). We’ll start here:

I’ve abandoned the 1200 tank shelter fibreglass rework - it’s just to big and weird. So I bought a salvage 1100 shelter :
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Problem is I’m not crazy about the gap between the shelter and the side panel.

So what I’ve roughly mocked up here is cutting the “ears” off a 1200 shelter, and wondering the feasibility of doing some cutting and grafting them on the 1100 shelter via fibreglass. What do y’all think? Would I regret cutting into it and should just leave it as is? Or would it look ok blended in the the 1100?
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Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#70

Post by CYBORG »

i think you are on the right track, but I would build a piece from scratch to follow the lines better
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
sphen
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#71

Post by sphen »

Makes sense. Next:

Is there any way to rehab and improve the sealing and fit of the kids on this shelter? The seals don’t quite seal and the bottom lid sits proud and “rocks” a little:
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Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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sphen
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#72

Post by sphen »

CYBORG wrote: Mon Jan 10, 2022 4:01 pm I used a standard choke cable, mounted to an aluminum plate attached to the frame on the left front of the bike. I cut off the barrel end that fits into the lever on the engine. Then removed the inter cable from the cover. Measure the distance from the plate to the engine mount for the cable, and cut th outer cable so thst it will clamp in the engine mount. The metal piece, that is actually clamped by the bracket, can be remover, and attached to the end of the shortened outer cable where it attaches to the engine bracket. Install the inter cable, and cut it off just beyond where it reaches the lever, when pushed in as far as it will go . They make small brass inserts that will fit into the actually lever, that have a small hole thru them for the cable, secured with a small screw. However I used a small bolt with a hole drilled both thru, and across the bolt. Basicly a hollow bolt with a hole for the wire drilled across it. Determine the position of the bolt while in the lever, and fill the other hole with solder to secure the cable to it. grind off, and smooth the excess cable end. All the cable cutting was done with a cut off wheel. Hope this helps. These are things that I "just do", with little thinking, so can be a little hard for me to explain
Wanna follow up on this - I finally took pics of the cable I’m working with. I want to shorten it, but I’m dealing with a crimped ferrule, an aluminum inner wrap, and then the cable itself. I’ve had limited success getting that wrap to cleanly strip - it’s almost spring like. Ever dealt with this?
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So I need a clean cut while keeping the sheath clean, and then remove the inner wrap to expose the “stick out” that I need for soldering.
Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#73

Post by CYBORG »

You are on the right track. If you pull the inter cable back past the point that you want to cut the outer cable at, and cut the outer cable off where it needs to be, ( you will have to use a cut off wheel to do that ). Then push the inter cable back in, and trim to the length needed. Again, with a cut off wheel.
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
sphen
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#74

Post by sphen »

CYBORG wrote: Mon Jan 24, 2022 8:46 am You are on the right track. If you pull the inter cable back past the point that you want to cut the outer cable at, and cut the outer cable off where it needs to be, ( you will have to use a cut off wheel to do that ). Then push the inter cable back in, and trim to the length needed. Again, with a cut off wheel.
Ok I smell what you’re stepping in now.

Take a look at this photo. I may have just gotten too heavy handed but On my test subject here when I removed the inner cable I removed the sheath and tore out some of the plastic where the plunger seats in the process. Dunno if you can see it very well. Thoughts? I would imagine if I were to use it like this there would be no “stop” when pulling the plunger out.

I have more new cables to work with this is just my test subject. But I don’t wanna tear em up too bad either.
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Project bike "Dixie" - 1986 GL1200 Aspencade being rebuilt from ground up to be a naked 'wing. Build progress thread here: viewtopic.php?f=30&t=71959

Build log video: View it here

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CYBORG
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Re: Say hello to ‘Dixie’

#75

Post by CYBORG »

The stop, when pulling it out, should be limited by how far the inter cable moves. And that is limited by the travel of the choke lever
1978 custom GL1000
1977 custom with 1200 engine
1985 gl1200
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