Denso 40 Amp Alternator

[Whiskerfish]

Optical illusion The notch is in the flat stock not the intake runner.

[peteybug]

lol going to the eyes Dr. need new prec.

[78AZWing]

Looks very good!

Do you just leave the old (original) alternator stuff in place then?

[LikeMike64]

Whiskerfish, in the last picture of the front of the engine where the pulleys are visible, the belt looks like it is setting in too deep on the crank pulley. The top of the belt should be very close to the edge of the pulley like it is on the alternator. Is that pulley meant for a wider belt? It looks like it is a "B" pulley and you are using a "A" belt (which would correct for the alternator pulley). If so, you are not getting the 1.5 to 1 ratio you are expecting, swapping it with a narrower pulley of the same diameter will make your alternator spin faster without taking up any more room, and give you that expected ratio.

You may find this useful: http://www.gizmology.net/pulleysbelts.htm

I don't mean to criticise your excellent work, but you will find that if you turn your amperage up one more setting on your welder than what you used on that brace for the alternator, you will have an easier time welding and the results will be stronger.

[Whiskerfish]

78AZWing

Yes I left everything where it was and just unplugged at the Rectifier and the regulator. I need to study the schematics some more just to make sure I did not screw that up.


Like Mike!!

My first post says " No criticizing my poor welds!! "

Just kidding. I have been around welding my whole life but I just never got any experience at it. I bet I don't have 10 hours time with a gun in my hands and that was spread out over so many years it is just useless to build an experience base from. Setting temp and feed rates are one of my weakest areas.

[LikeMike64]

Whiskerfish, Tidewater Community College has an excellent welding class in their continuing education curriculum. IIRC it was like $200 for 8 nights of mixed class room and hands on training when I took it. They have a great instructor too. You may want to check it out.

I have done very little MIG. The bulk of my experience has been with stick and brazing. With stick, you want 1 amp for each thousandth of an inch in diameter of the welding rod.

I fell in love with TIG when I was in class! It is great. Still need to save up for one of those machines.

[78AZWing]

Thought occurred.

(Gotta watch that, they can hurt you if you aren't carefull!)

Air-cooled VW engines used spacer washers to set the tension on the alt/generator belt. You started with maybe six or seven between the two halves of the pulley on the alt/gen and removed one to the nut side of the outer pulley half to make the belt ride higher in the groove and add one to the inner group to make the belt ride lower in the groove. I believe all the air-cooled were that way.

Would be one to avoid having to move the altenator around.

The shaft was threaded so that the spin would cause a loose nut to tighten on the shaft.

[lsgyger]

Hey WF, any further progress on this? It's almost dropped to the 2nd page on the index!

[bigricksharpe]

Well good news, I ran the Marvel mystery oil, in the old oil before changing, and after changing added a small amt. the starter clutch works like it should now whew! been wonderin my title came after the tabs expired, if I get Vietnam vet plates would I havta pay for new plates n tabs? or just tabs.
Also, Honda should make a smaller top mounted radiator for our older bikes, then that alternator could be mounted facong backward but at least in front of the moter case, look's like it takes up leg space mounted on the side 8) !

[Whiskerfish]

Hey WF, any further progress on this? It's almost dropped to the 2nd page on the index!

Pretty much finished up for now. I have probably 100 miles on it and it seems to be working good. I still can not get a decent charge at idle. I went with the biggest pulley I could and still maintain clearance to the lower edge of the Radiator. It charges a little at idle but really does not kick in until about 1500 rpm. At 1500 rpm it will run the fan and still have 14 volts going to the battery.

[HenningN]

Pretty much finished up for now. I have probably 100 miles on it and it seems to be working good. I still can not get a decent charge at idle. I went with the biggest pulley I could and still maintain clearance to the lower edge of the Radiator. It charges a little at idle but really does not kick in until about 1500 rpm. At 1500 rpm it will run the fan and still have 14 volts going to the battery.[/quote]

Hi. I did the Conversion on my LTD 1985 2 Years and 15000 miles ago. Mine is not charging at idle too, but it has never been a problem. I have a 1 to 1 Ratio on the Pulley.

[CYBORG]

i did mine a couple of years ago as well. it's one to one, and i have had no problems with charging

[78AZWing]

I have one of the one-wire Delco s10 alternator conversions on my 1960 CJ5.
It kicks in at about 1600 rpm, but once turned on will charge at 1000 rpm idle that I have the carb set at. Probably the real way to go.

[Whiskerfish]

I have one of the one-wire Delco s10 alternator conversions on my 1960 CJ5.
It kicks in at about 1600 rpm, but once turned on will charge at 1000 rpm idle that I have the carb set at. Probably the real way to go.

What kind of drive ratio are you running?

[78AZWing]

Crank pulley measures 5 3/16 inches, alternator pulley measures 2 3/4 inches.

That is rim to rim on the pulleys, the belt sets down in 3/8ths inch below flush with the pulley rim.

my calculator tells me I need more sleep. It says 1.888 to 1. not sure if that is right or not.