CONVERT CABLE CLUTCH TO HYDRAULIC - Sunny's HOW-TO

[sunnbobb]

-editors note: This is the first of what I hope are many how-to's that condense, rewrite and photograph subject matter discussed throughout the NGW site. - Sunny

SUMMARY

To convert your GL1000 (or 1100) to a hydraulic setup, remove the clutch lever, cable and cover from your bike. Replace the system with a lever, hydraulic line, clutch cover and slave cylinder from an 84 GL1200. A simple modification is needed to the 84 slave cylinder push rod. (No modification is needed to the gl1200 push pin if you are installing this in an 1100.


Honda introduced the Goldwing hydraulic clutch in 1984. The cover from a 1984 GL1200 fits the GL1000 perfectly, and is the only hydraulic cover that does so. After 1984, the cover bolt down hole pattern changed and the covers were no longer interchangeable with the older GL's. The slave cylinder however, remained the same 1984 through 1987. In other words any slave cylinder from 1984-87 will fit the 1984 cover.


PARTS LIST

84 Clutch cover
84-87 Clutch slave cylinder
84 Cover center seal
84 Cover gasket
84-87 Slave cylinder rebuild kit
42mm (1-5/8") 5/16" diameter 304 SS round rod.


CLUTCH COVER REBUILD

Begin by removing the slave cylinder from the 84 clutch cover and set it aside. Clean up the 1984 clutch cover. Be sure to thoroughly remove the old gasket used to seal the cover to the case.

Remove the small rubber seal in the middle of the cover. It probably won't want to come out easily, don't worry about tearing it up, it will be replaced. Clean the seal seat in the cover thoroughly.

If you want, now is the time to refinish or polish the cover.

Place your new center seal into the seal seat and press it carefully into place. A rubber mallet and wood dowel work well for this.

Check the gasket against the cover to ascertain a correct fit. If the gasket is upside down it will not match up to the holes. After you have ascertained the correct positioning of the gasket, apply a gasket glue to the cover and place the gasket in place on the cover. Set the cover aside.

SLAVE CYLINDER REBUILD

Remove the rubber Zerk cover and discard. Using LIGHT air pressure, place an air nozzle in the hydraulic line hole and blow the piston gently out of the slave housing. Remove and discard the spring, piston seal and inner rubber push rod seal. Thoroughly clean all parts. Now is also a good time to clean and/or polish the slave cylinder. I prefer to wire wheel the exterior of the cylinder and apply a clear coat when finished. A light whisking of the piston and sleeve with fine emery cloth is advised to remove any built up residues and/or ridges.Replace the previously removed parts with the new parts in your kit and reassemble the slave cylinder.

MODIFY THE PUSH ROD

The 84 GL1200 hydraulic slave had a push rod designed to go deep into the clutch pressure plate. Prior to this, the GL's (cable driven) had a stubby push rod. In order to convert your pre-84 to a newer hydraulic you must manufacture a new modified push rod. The 84 push rod can be modified by cutting and using a sleeve, however, I found it easier to simply make a new one without having to hunt for special parts.

Begin with a raw 5/16" diameter 304 stainless steel round rod. Cut the rod to 42mm, then round and polish both ends. The idea is to get the push rod to extend the same distance into the clutch as the original cable driven clutch.


REASSEMBLY

Insert the new push rod into the rear of the slave cylinder.
Bolt the slave cylinder to the clutch cover.
Bolt the clutch cover to the case.
Attach hydraulic lines.
Attach hydraulic master cylinder.
Bleed system.
Ride.

SIDE NOTES

For my application I chose to use a BDL clutch master cylinder and braided stainless steel hydraulic lines. I split the line in the middle and joined it with a union to allow me ease in routing the line.

I collected all the information I could from the internet prior to performing this operation. I want to thank Old Fogey and Frank Marx for the information they provided.

SHAMELESS SELF PROMOTION: I will sell you a complete rebuilt and polished hydraulic setup for $195 shipped Includes cover, slave, lines, fittings - just add the master cylinder of your choice. Modified push rods are available for $15 shipped as well.


A COMPARISON OF CLUTCH COVERS THROUGH THE YEARS

FRONTS



BACKS




HONDA PARTS DIAGRAM 78 GL1000 CLUTCH COVER




HONDA PARTS DIAGRAM 84 GL1200 CLUTCH COVER
(THE PUSH ROD IS IDENTIFIED AS #4)




78 VS 84 CLUTCH COVER COMPARISON




CLUTCH COVER AND SLAVE REBUILD PARTS ($25 FROM TAS CLASSIC MOTORSPORTS ++ CANDY!)




SLAVE CYLINDER PARTS AFTER REPLACEMENT




CUTTING A NEW PUSH ROD FROM 5/16" SS




GRINDING END OF NEW PUSH ROD TO A ROUND POINT




POLISHING END OF PUSH ROD




MODIFIED PUSH ROD




MODIFIED PUSH ROD INSTALLED IN SLAVE CYLINDER




MODIFIED AND REBUILT UNIT READY FOR INSTALLATION



NOTES FOR CONVERTING A GL1100:
If you are installing this cover on an 83 gl1100, you will need to retain and use the long pushrod from the gl1200. The short rod will not be needed. If installing in an 80-82, you will use the 1100 push rod.

[ElPiloto]

I think this excellent write up should be in the "How To 4-Wings" and "Shop Talk" sections.

If you need a really strong clutch like a Barnett, this is the best way to control de-clutch and engage clutch.

Of course there are other ways, but I believe this is the best way.

[Whiskerfish]

I think this excellent write up should be in the "How To 4-Wings" and "Shop Talk" sections.

Agree!! It will get there.

[Ron]

ebay has a so called 84 clutch cover item 140044350311 . I have no idea what year it actual is but it can't be an 84 .

[sunnbobb]

Yeah, I saw that one, sent the guy a note, but no response...

[Whiskerfish]

Moved

[heraldhamster]

I've said it before and I'll likely say it again, but d*mmit you're a genius SB.

outstanding write up and pics.

[shersba]

nice write up sunnbobb

[Roady]

Wow ... just, umm, WOW!

Now if I just had the fabricatin' skills like you got I might do that. In fact, I need to do that!

Thanks for this and all you do around here. You're a gem.

[Old Fogey]

If I may, I'll add a bit to this.

I had a worry, having modified my clutch pack by binning the damper plate, that the pushrod size would be altered.
This may be the case even with manufacturing tolerances (although not too likely).
So I made up a simple tool to check for the correct length of rod.

Check out page 4 & 5 of ENGINE REBUILD TIPS

[Victour]

Great I adjusted my manual clutch and said how on earth are my Artheritis fingers supposed to pull that.. the Hydraulic is the only way to go..

[areem57]

I was planning on running a custom stainless steel line, do you know they exsact length of the hydraclic line? Thank you, Ryan.

[sunnbobb]

No I don't actually. It depends on your handlebars and how you want to route the line. I put 2 piece lines with a joiner to make it easy to service either end, or to get the line out of the way if I need to do some work under the hood.

[areem57]

No I don't actually. It depends on your handlebars and how you want to route the line. I put 2 piece lines with a joiner to make it easy to service either end, or to get the line out of the way if I need to do some work under the hood.

I think i'm going to have to follow you on this I cant find any banjo to banjo stainless steel braided line that is long enough.

[boogie red]

Very interesting, especially since my clutch has a odd feel, hard to discribe, a timing thing and my hand is arthretic as well, so I am very interested. Where do I find a mastercylinder and does a lever come with it? I am also working on the forks,76 wing by the way, got em all apart,I see a worn bushing, very dirty and only parts I could find were seals and springs,no sliders,got a second set,air assisted,had some different parts in it,also worn. Any way do u know anyone that may have a segestion or parts? Thank u very much. I want the clutch stuff,but i gotta get this fork stuff done and back on the ground first. Any ides greatly appreicated!