The NGW Project Bike. Wheel rebuild

[Bandanna]

YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!!!

lost for words..........

BRILLIANT SIR...........

[Zryder]

I Thank You kindly Octane . Just want I need for my reserch . So far its on the drawing bourd that I may trike my bike so I am looking into the internal workings of the swingarm in mounting the rear of the trike assembly . In Adam Es words and I also feel You are the Master .

[octane]

ho ho ...give me a break .-)
I'm just what around here is called "a happy amateur"
...not too smart
...but enjoys what he's doing
...and mostly gets away with it



Thanks guys!

[Annie's Boyfriend]

Don't be so modest, we are all very happy with the info that you provide.

So far it has been a great help

Bart

[rrgrassi]

Hey Octane,
Also make sure to get your speedo recalibrated. Smaller diameter wheel turns faster than a larger diameter.

As I recall from my automotive experience, reducing wheel diameter did cause problems with ground clearance and ride height and angle of deflection when bumps and dips were encountered while driving.

[Needle]

Thanks Octane,
You answered a lot of my questions, before I asked them. I am trying to a similar thing with my front wheel off my 75 Wing. I bought an extra 17 rear rim that I want to lace to my front hub. That will give me 140's front and rear. Can I use a die and just thread the spokes farther down and cut them to the size I need? That way I could use the original front spokes. I also want to paint my spokes like you did, your wheels look awesome. Thanks for documenting all your hard work it is an invaluable asset to all of us!
Mahalo,
Needle

[octane]

Hey Octane,
Also make sure to get your speedo recalibrated. Smaller diameter wheel turns faster than a larger diameter.

As I recall from my automotive experience, reducing wheel diameter did cause problems with ground clearance and ride height and angle of deflection when bumps and dips were encountered while driving.

Hi RR Grassi, thanks.
Oh yes I know I'm f.... er.. fooling with the speedo ratio and
with the whole geometric set up of the bike.
Yes you're also right about the 'deflection'-thing.
That's why off-roaders have such big (front) wheels.
Thy're much better at absorbing bumps.

We'll see how it works out.

Best regards
Octane

[octane]

Thanks Octane,
You answered a lot of my questions, before I asked them. I am trying to a similar thing with my front wheel off my 75 Wing. I bought an extra 17 rear rim that I want to lace to my front hub. That will give me 140's front and rear. Can I use a die and just thread the spokes farther down and cut them to the size I need? That way I could use the original front spokes. I also want to paint my spokes like you did, your wheels look awesome. Thanks for documenting all your hard work it is an invaluable asset to all of us!
Mahalo,
Needle

Hi Needle please see my post to Bart on the previous page.
I'm not a wheel build expert but I'd say, yes you can
use a die and just thread the spokes farther down and cut them to the size,
you might have a slight problem if they are
galvanized, or have some other surface treatment that you
cut into, threading them. Then again if you paint them
that should keep them from rusting.

Here's a few links if you want to dive into it:

Click
Click
Click part 1 , Click part 2

Octane

[Annie's Boyfriend]

Ok, it is time for another dumb question.

How can I best remove my frontwheel, do I have to jack the bike up or do you have another tip for me.

Be aware that I do not have a motorlift or table to work with.

I was thinking of placing her on a big plank or something, leaving the frontwheel off of it so that I have some room to drop the axle/wheel out.

Ideas ??


Bart

[octane]

Ok, it is time for another dumb question.

How can I best remove my frontwheel, do I have to jack the bike up or do you have another tip for me.

Be aware that I do not have a motorlift or table to work with.

I was thinking of placing her on a big plank or something, leaving the frontwheel off of it so that I have some room to drop the axle/wheel out.

Ideas ??

Yes: placing her on a big plank or something, leaving the frontwheel off of it so that you have some room to drop the axle/wheel out
.-)

sounds like a brilliant plan to me.






As I do have a lot of bikes to work on I've invested
around 60 UD$ in this super-nifty little sissor-type lift:



it's very usefull for detaching/reattaching the wheels
Raise/lower lift so wheel is on the ground...detach...raise etc.

Octane

[RebelRouser]

Hey Bart, If Your Annie Is Fully Built And Weighs A Bit, Then Use The Center Stand As The First Point, Take A 2x4 And Go From Header To Header At The Front Of The Bike, Use A Standard Car Jack To Raise It, As The Weight Is Being Lifted Lossen The Nuts That Hold Th Axel Retainers And As You Lift The Bike The Wheel Will Stay Down As The Bike Goes Up.....

Hey Needle, Yes You Can Use Your Die To Shorten The Threads On The Spokes, As Long As It Is An Original Honda GoldWing Wheel, There All Stainless....

Hey Octane I Like The Red Pinstipe On Them Wheels, They Need It All The Way Around, Matches The Pinstripe And Racing Stripe Paint Job.....

[77GL1]

Not that "Mr" Octane needs any tips, but I was talking to a Rolls Royce guy that was telling me he tightened the spokes on his Phantom Is by tuning them like a piano....by sound. 'Course they're much larger than these.

[octane]

Not that "Mr" Octane needs any tips..

Hi 77GL1....oh yes he does

but I was talking to a Rolls Royce guy that was telling me he tightened the spokes on his Phantom Is by tuning them like a piano....by sound..

...right now "Mr" Octane got a tip on how he forgot to mention something in this thread.-)

Honda did give torque spec. for the spokes:
20-45 Kg-cm / 17-39 in. lbs.

As I don't have a torque wrench that would work on the spokes,
I simply put the square end of the torque wrench
(where you usually put on the socket) in a vice:
..adjusted it to first 20....(afterwards to 45 Kg-cm)
..held on to the torque wrench
at the same distance from the vice
as the spanner I used for the spokes is long

...turned until the 'click'

THAT gave me a good sense of what 20/45 Kg-cm felt like...force-in-hand-wise


Eh...did that explanation make any sense?

Also I checked all spokes by tapping them with a screwdriver,
(loosely held with two fingers)
checking for a clear PLING...not a DHUMPH.
And checking if any one spoke would have a distinctively different sound
from the others.
Witch, by the way, one should do every once in a while on ones bike.

[77GL1]

Also I checked all spokes by tapping them with a screwdriver, (loosely held with two fingers)
checking for a clear PLING...not a DHUMPH.
And checking if any one spoke would have a distinctively different sound
from the others.

Yup....the RR guy (w/60 years experience) said exactly that.........

[Strawb]

great stuff octane!!!!!!

did you have to replace the whole front end for this conversion?