Maybe I'll call it Threedom

[gltriker]

My dearly beloved 1980 CB900 Custom I'd "triked" in 1998, came to a rough end via a rearender wreck caused by a dr-nk car driver in 2003. ( ME TOO, almost!)

http://www.ngwclub.com/gallery/v/wingmans/gltriker/

Eventually, I wanted to build another one, but my previous trike's co-builder said build something else...... like a GoldWing this time. hmmmm?

Late in 2005, one of my sons told me about an "older" guy he knew, that was selling a 1975 GoldWing. anyway, I went to look at it after my son bugged me enough to finally do it to make him quit pestering me.

Image0001.JPG

It looked, "interesting", and I gave him a $100 deposit/ I'll think about it cash. I thought about it for a few days, then went back and talked price. $1000 was the final fee. Supposedly, it ran..... but the smell of sour fuel made me doubt it. My buddy picked it up and we placed it in my building Dec., 2005. Here in central New York state, winter makes some of us stay inside for 4 months, where it's warm......

Circa March or April, 2006, I started to fiddle with it. It would crank over and putt-putt-putt, but no more than that. The headlight was so dim it could hardly be seen. I started stripping off the hind quarters,ie the bags, rear rack, a myriad of bullet lights, the rear wheel and gearcase, and finally, the fuel tank. When I saw what a gooey mess the fuel tank was, I pulled the carburetors off. Flipping them upside down and removing the bowls made me cringe when I saw the crystal-like flakes of old dried up gasoline. Thank the lord for Mr. Washington's advisement to use Yamaha Carburetor Cleaner, back when you mixed it with gasoline. The GOOD stuff!!
I lost the few photos I'd taken back then to a computer hard drive crash. After refurbishing the carbs with Randakk's kit, the project sat untouched for 4 1/2 years. Why? I don't recall, but I betcha tight cash was a large factor in the scheme of things. In retrospect, I now recall when I removed the fairing, I could see a rat's nest of cobbled up wiring and that probably sealed the fate of the project.

September, 2010 came around and I'd looked at that rebuilt carburetor rack so long and the bike patiently sitting on the centerstand and something slowly stirred. I'd never seen the engine run, and wanted to at least do that, if just to satisfy that urge. Plus my lifelong friend since the age of 5 was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer and wanted to hear it run, too, before he got any weaker. Therefore, I reconnected to the GL with a new vigor to do so in October,2010. From that point I have photos to chronicle the project as it has progressed.

daddy-o projects 053.JPG

I'll leave the metamorphosis for a day or so, then come back with more photos after I develop a semblance of order with how I'll present different aspects of the triking process. (I've taken SOoooo many photos its going to be a project just to organize my thoughts!)

ciao for now
Cliff

[Roady]

I like the idea of more photos and am anxious to see how your build progress and panned out.

[Kriss]

we like photos

[gltriker]

After looking at the bunch of photos of the rear axle I'm using, this time, I remembered WHY the project went sour with me back in 2006!

I'd done a lot of junkyard crawling that Spring to find, "the perfect axle". Subsequently, after spending many hours talking to different owners at multiple recycler yards, they gave me the same opinion. If it don't sell parts anymore, it's crushed. The little rear wheel drive cars from the 70s-late 80s were gone. In 1998, when the CB900 custom trike was built, there were all kinds of axles available. At least as my aged brain wishfully recalls, that is.

Early 2006, I thought I found an acceptable rearend from a late 70s Volvo sedan. I paid the parts department somewheres around $85, total price for the whole deal, to have it removed and loaded in my truck. The guy that was going to remove it, the next day (Tuesday) when the yard was closed
for "housekeeping", said he'd remove it and they'd call ME, Wednesday-- don't call us. Anyway, Wednesday came and went. No call. i called Thursday morning, and inquired if was pulled. No, not yet. Come over in 3 hours and it will be waiting.

Fast forward 3 hours later, I went into the office with a big smile, and the office manager, knowing full well who I was and the nature of my business, avoided acknowledging my presence. Finally, sheepishly he told me the car had been crushed Tuesday, with the rearend still in place. Knock me down dead!! GIVE ME MY MONEY BACK!!!!!! I'll not be coming back. That's what turned me off the project in 2006. sad but true.......

The GL1000's odometer reading was strangely low.

daddy-o projects 057.JPG

After getting really involved with the engine and its quirky nature earlier last year, I theorized why this 1975 has a 1976 carburetor set. And all 4 plug wires inner insulation was a shredded mess and wouldn't engage into the spark plug caps and hold. The Martek ignition made it "run"(????) like crap and the plug wires were in turn repeatedly being yanked off, was my take on the evidence.
After posting my need for any and all Martek info last Spring, Robin tried his very best to give me a lead on the installation instructions, but all avenues were dead ends. Therefore, I installed the used points plate last summer I'd won off, where else, eBay, back in 2006 speculating it might be "useful" at some point. It took a few hours to clean up the points' contacts and work with severely mangled screw heads in the process of setting gaps and timing the system. Subsequently, it did start and run fairly well, afterwards. Then, while idling, there came a ticking sound. Upon investigastion, I found the #3 cylinder exhaust valve lash adjuster screw and nut were missing. After posing the question how will I find the nut, several fellows told me to remove the strainer cover. There it was! beesharp helped me out with some very good used lash adjuster screws and nuts. THANK YOU, JIM!!

Now, to the axle I finally purchased, knowing full well that if I didn't get something, soon!, the project would fall victim to my apathy again! I junkyard crawled in early July, found an axle in the suitable ratio window (3.55 or 3.73) and paid $100, removed and onto my tailgate. Although "huge" in comparison to what I'd wished to find, it was clean and modern, and parts would be readily available.
It's a GM Eaton locker rear axle, huge 8.5 inch ring gear, 3.73 ratio that came off a 2002 Chevy Blazer ZR Model. The stock disc brakes set-up was added value.

044.JPG

Very clean, and relatively little wear on the internals.

047.JPG

Now, comes the brainstorming; how am I going to make this work? Remember the CB900 Custom project I still gush over? The same mods apply to this shaft drive bike, too. OK get the Honda's rear gear box pinion shaft AND the GM pinion shaft, and to mate them together is the plan.

001.JPG

I'll end this post now and leave y'all hanging wondering what happens next?

BUT, I'll collect more photos and text for another in the series of this build, and continue, soon.....

[gltriker]

This photo illustrates what the purpose of using the stock driveline set-up is , before modification of the Honda pinion shaft takes place.
The GL1000 swingarm hadn't been removed from the frame, yet.

010.JPG

...but, it will be! It's too funky lookin' and weak in comparison to a GL1100, or the CB900 Custom swingarm, that was my choice in the end, because NO GL1000 driveshaft length modification was necessary with that one! The GL1000, GL1100, and CB900 Custom driveshafts all have different lengths, AND the drive yolk splines' count are altogether different, as well. Incredibly, the CB900 Custom female splined driveshaft coupler was just the nuts, as I pleasantly discovered, by virtue of its slightly longer dimension. Interesting, isn't it?!

051.JPG

Ciao fer now!
Cliff

[northwood]

Very neat. Going to watch this thread grow!

[gltriker]

The axle housing is now completely gutted and ready to be shortened from 59 1/4" end to end dimension.
note: a large amount of the project was accomplished on my truck's tailgate. Up off the ground, great visibility, and access to many tools that took up residence under the tonneau cover, too.

axle narrowing august 18th 001.JPG

I can't remember exactly why, but the final overall length was set at 44". Considering I had no equipment to dissect the tubes other than by hand, I had to figure out how to keep my cuts straight.
hmmmmmm? Two band type piston ring compressors, some masking tape, and (overkill?) my 12" digital calipers served the purpose!

axle narrowing august 18th 004.JPG

axle narrowing august 18th 011.JPG

In order to center the axle assembly with the bike's centerline, I calculated to remove 10 1/2" from the right tube and axle shaft, and 4 3/4" from the left tube and shaft would put me close enough for who the job is for. ME!

axle narrowing august 18th 010.JPG

A cut-off wheel in my hand grinder was the device I used to cut the 1/4" thick steel tubing. Four cuts, lotsa hot sparks later it was done! I never timed the process, But, it seemed to be endless to a guy that'd never done anything like this before......

trike axle narrowing aug 19 008.JPG

[fish]

a great thread GL triker
thanks a million for taking the time to tell thye story & document it

[gltriker]

I ran out of attachment space in the previous post.... we'll continue with the "poor man's process" to modify the axle tubes and shafts now

trike axle narrowing aug 19 009.JPG

After cutting the tubes and grinding off the excess tube stock extending out from my guideline, the tape, the ends had to be chamfered for proper welding preparation practices. The outermost sections were faced by my machinist, and I chamfered them on my deceased friend's belt sander with a temporary jig I manufactured. The inner tubes, I had to chamfer with my handheld grinder. Not as pretty.

008.JPG

Being that all the axle mods were in line with the "poor man's process" guide, I needed to figure out how to align the mating tube sections to achieve the semi-perfect (LOL) end result desired after welding the seam. hmmmmm? How's about an internal sleeve? Exhaust pipe might do it. Therefore, a visit to my favorite muffler shop netted a free section of exhaust tubing, larger o.d. than I wanted. nothing smaller was available in their regular inventory. But, again, I'll make it work. Break out the cut-off wheel, again. Cut a slit lengthwise, and eventually, after much grinding and cutting, removed approximately 1/2" to fit tightly inside the tube sections.

004.JPG

My neighbor, Pat, a structural steel welder, offered to do whatever he could and I took him up on it. He's a great neighbor, by the way!!
Clamping the tube sections, top and bottom, between 2 pieces of clean and straight channel stock, yielded surprisingly well aligned tubes to weld together. This was comfirmed by sliding the axle shaft into the housing before welding the seam. and, I was thinking that leaving the sleeve in place would be ok because it #1, wasn't in the way of the axle shaft, and #2, would potentially block weld spatter onto the axle shaft, as well.

012.JPG

[gltriker]

a great thread GL triker
thanks a million for taking the time to tell the story & document it

You are very welcome, Tim!

I'm having a good time recalling the trials and tribulations of the "poor man's process" and how well it all came about in the end. so far, that is!


cliff

[Fred Camper]

Great thread documenting this process. Watch this one is fun.

[gltriker]

Now, my neighbor Pat, is a world-wide celebrity for the welding he's done for me!

axle weld and halloween 003.JPG

Here's the generous multiple passes he placed on the seams

axle weld and halloween 001.JPG

axle weld and halloween 002.JPG

The finished grinding of the welded seams and preliminary coat of paint.
note: disregard all other aspects of this photo's details, to the date, other than just been cleaned up and painted

011.JPG

Now, to the "poor man's process" axle shafts' mods for length.
Once again, the cut-off wheel, lotsa hot sparks, and what seemed to be an interminable amount of time to get through the hardened demons.

shortening trike axle shafts 003.JPG

.......again, I'm at the attachments limit

[gltriker]

Hardened axle shaft ends. My machinist, another great story, was successful facing off the ends of the shafts with carbide bits. Made for a few noisy minutes for each pass too!

shortening trike axle shafts 002.JPG

I can't locate any photos of the faced off and end-drilled shaft sections, but suffice it to say they turned out very well. Center drilling each end 3/8" i.d., and aligning both sections with hardened steel pins, yielded an excellently aligned finished job, prior to welding. I only have videos of the machine work, nothing else, other than the finished welding views.

001.JPG

002.JPG

I'm signing off to further compose the "poor man's process" build photos.

ciao fer now!
Cliff

[gltriker]

yeah, I know I know, how did you mate the pinions together? ......

100_7916.JPG

I have a photo of them mated after machining. The pinion gear, itself, is completely removed from the Honda shaft, again, with a cut-off wheel in my hand grinder. MORE hot sparks, again!!

the GM pinion gear reinserted into the "punkin", first view, and the coupled, but the not yet consumated final marriage of the couple protruding from the other hole in the "punkin" in the next photo. they soon after got "married" in a fever, hotter than a pepper sprout


It's exciting!!!!!

shortening trike axle shafts 012.JPG

measuring pinion adapter parts 8-26-11 008.JPG

NOT YET, FOLKS!
More figgerin' was accomplished before the welding, considering an improbable, yet not impossible case, an adjustment might be necessary prior to their long term "marriage".

[gltriker]

Kindly note that several of these photos were erroneously date stamped as 2007 by a camera that would reset itself willy nilly, as it pleased, and I didn't notice the change at the time.
anyhoo,
Here's the CB900C swingarm and the two GM axle housing interface adaptors we named part numbers #s 1 and 2.

020.JPG

a view of the two adaptors bolted together, and temporarily placed where they, will in turn, be welded to the punkin'

022.JPG

part number #1 - bottom side, then top side which part number #2 and the swingarm flange bolt to/through

007.JPG

008.JPG

note:My machinist friend handled these parts with kid gloves, not willingly cognizant that eventually this part #1 would be welded to the differential casting........(now that he's seen the actual finished welding, he doesn't cringe anymore)

009.JPG