40 Build

[pierce]

For my 40th birthday I have decided that my wife and I will take a month long trip on the motorcycle. Most likely through the southern United states (we have ridden most of mid and northern) up the coast of California and on up to Alaska, then back through Canada, Banff etc. The only problem is the bike doesn't exist yet. This thread will document my process starting with an empty case.

Right now I have compiled most of the engine components, gears, oil assembly, pistons rings and a million other little pieces that have arrived in boxes and I am not sure what goes where just yet. My idea (right now) is to rebuild every component (or at least make sure it is in good working order) and then modify a few things here and there. I have a 79 case (I believe all the cases are the same for 75 on up to the 80's?). However, I like the early cams and carbs so I will fit it with 75 - 77 heads and a matching carb. The only other real modifications will be the addition of the later chain tensioner, and a hydraulic clutch sounds like it would be pretty cool on a 76, so I bought a good 85 clutch basket with all the plates washers bolts (no springs? I guess the springs would only be needed if it was not hydraulic?) and cover.

I guess first things first, I will get the case in order and clean it, probably paint everything while its not assembled as it would be much easier to do than with all the gear in there.

So the saga begins. I will post some pics as I start to do some stuff. Hopefully at the end I won't press the starter button and the bike explodes.

[Neil]

Subscribed

[wingrider]

You are certainly taking on a project....will be quite a ride on both accounts!

As far as your clutch, there is a spring...just one, and it is rather strong. It is on the back side of the clutch pack. If you haven't already done it, You may want to read up on the 1200 clutch conversion that Old Fogey and Sunnbobb put together in Shoptalk...Good info.

Best of luck! It'll be a great time, and you'll know everything there is to know about your bike!

[gregforesi]

You're really jumping in with both feet.
Check that thread on the hydraulic clutch converion because I recall that only the 84 clutch cover will work on the early engines.

[Brant]

You are an ambitious dude, good luck brother.

[rogue1000]

Cool...post lots of pics!!

[pierce]

So, here goes. Got the cases so I thought I would first clean them up.

block.jpg

rcase.jpg

lcase.jpg

front.jpg

While I was cleaning up the case, I threw all the bolts in a cleaner so I can let them soak overnight. This will make things easier when to get them to shine when I buff them tomorrow.

bolts.jpg

Yes, they are soaking in a vodka bottle. Everything goes better with vodka.

[pierce]

vbolts.jpg

Look what I got today in the mail, drum and shift linkage in a box!

shifter.jpg

Mystery of the evening, while cleaning up the case this fell out? Is it something I need, what is it and where does it go? Seems odd that it would just fall out. Any ideas?

mysetery.jpg

I will post the cleaned cases when I get them done.

[pierce]

Cleaned, sanded and painted the cases. I decided to do this while the case was split, and the front and rear cover were off. This made things a lot easier, and I could do a much better job. Here is the engine all taped off and in various states of pre painting prep. I cleaned the case extremely well, washed it, then sanded it, then taped it up and painted it.

[pierce]

After the cases dried (put on three coats and then gave them a week to dry) I began the right case assembly. Transmission is up first. Needed parts are the drum, countershaft, main shaft, countershaft oil cap and bearing, main shaft 'guides', and shifter fork and shifter fork pin.

transmission.jpg

The drum is slid into the case and 'held' in place by the neutral switch. The drum has a notch where the ball of the neutral switch will catch on. This of course would be neutral. So the drum and transmission are installed while in neutral.

[pierce]

After the drum is in place, the countershaft is installed. In order to get it in to place the final gear will need to be removed.

countershaft.jpg

Then insert the countershaft from the center position and tilt it so the left side can fit through the wall, and then insert the right side. I put a light coat of lube on the gears, but it isn't necessary as the gears lay in the oil at the base of the case.

countershaft1.jpg

Then slide the final gear through the left side hole in the correct alignment.

countershaft2.jpg

After the final gear is in place, grease the bearing and insert it into the oil cap.

countershaft3.jpg

Then insert in the whole making sure that the oil passages align:

countershaft4.jpg

[pierce]

The oil passage on the case:

countershaft5.jpg

Then just use the two screws to tighten it down, and then use a driver to tighten them.

countershaft6.jpg

Countershaft is done!

[pierce]

Remove the shift forks from the shaft, and orient them correctly. The tow outer forks go in the grooves on the countershaft, and the middle fork will fit into the main shaft, so it will just sit there (for now). Then slide the shaft through the opening and insert in into the forks. So far nothing has taken any force, just slides right in.

forks.jpg

forks2.jpg

Forks are done.

[Bert]

I just subscribed...I've never seen a complete rebuild.

[pierce]

The chain oiler has two pieces, and slides into the only real opening on the case that it will fit into near where the chain will lay. Make sure you have both parts. The smaller jet goes in first, and then the black oiler fits over top it.

oiler.jpg

Here the jet is installed without the oiler.

oiler1.jpg

Oiler installed over the top.

oiler2.jpg

Also note the chain guard below it. Most manuals say nothing about the guard at this point, but I suspect they assume that certain things will be in place. I am starting from a blank case, so I installed the guard at this point before the main shaft and chain obscure it. The guide has a notch in it that fits in the case (shown in the picture on its side).