40 Build

[pierce]

To install the primary chain it needs to be placed around the countershaft gear, and around the primary sprocket on the main shaft of the transmission. What I did is remove the sprocket from the transmission (just slides right off) and then place the chain around it and lay the crankshaft and sprocket (fitted with chain) into place and then lifted it up to place the metal oil cover around the gear. Once the oil cover was in place, I then slid the main shaft through.

mainshaft and crank.jpg

Here is the primary chain installed.

primary chain.jpg

Make sure that the primary chain clears the oiler. Otherwise bad things will happen. I am positive that the chain would saw it right off (the chain is very heavy duty).

clearnaced chain oiler.jpg

[pierce]

With the main shaft in place the main shaft pass can be installed.

Main shaft pass:

main shaft pass.jpg

Orient the pass with the tab on the case, and it slides right on somewhat snug.

main shaft groove.jpg

Here it is installed:

main shaft pass installed.jpg

[pierce]

With the crank on I replaced the oil seal.

crank seal.jpg

crankoilseal.jpg

I then placed the belt drive pulleys after, and lightly tightened them (the crank spins, makes it difficult to tighten without my ingenious tool!)

belt drive pulley.jpg

My ingenious tool:

smart tool.jpg

Yes, thats just an oil filter wrench. But, it works very well, and causes no damage to the spinning crankshaft.

[pierce]

I then placed my new locating dowels in place in preparation for the crankshaft caps.

crankshaft dowels.jpg

Then place the caps on over them and tighten them down.

crank caps.jpg

Don't forget the small locating dowel and o ring that go in the case next to the crankshaft.

case dowel and o ring.jpg

This is where they go:

dowel o ring installed.jpg

dowel o ring orientation.jpg

[pierce]

Most would be done with the crankshaft at this point, but I am converting my later model crankshaft to an early one so it will have a kickstart. All that is needed is a new end to the crankshaft (you will also need a new rear case and the kickstart mechanism, but will show that later when I am installing the rear case.)

Here is what the later model crankshaft ends look like as is:

crank convert.jpg

Here is the new early end that I will replace it with:

76 crank end.jpg

Comparison:

compare crank ends.jpg

And finally, with the new early style end installed.

76 crank end installed.jpg

[pierce]

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[ericheath]

Neat, thanks for sharing with us.

[Dirty Dave]

Great to see the innards of the GL1000. Thanks for sharing and having the "smarts" to attempt such a build. Haven't had this much fun in a long time.

[Fred Camper]

Nice to know what little was done in the removal of the kick start mechanism. So mostly just a early rear cover, I may want to get the kick back into my 1978 engine.

[pierce]

With the right side case ready, time to get going on the left.

left case.jpg

The major components are the oil pump, scavenger (connected to the main oil pump via the rod), tensioner and shifter.

I began with the oil pump.

The main oil pump is held together by three screws. They are in there pretty stubbornly, but with a bit of force they will come off.

remove bolts.jpg

Then take it apart, just make sure that you don't lose that little pin that holds the rod in place.

oil pump.jpg

the 'pin' and hole that it fits into.

oil pump pin.jpg

[pierce]

I cleaned the oil pump and made sure it was up to spec per the manual then replaced the oil seal. When buttoning it back up I lightly oiled the gear and replaced the three screws.

I then did the same with the scavenger.

scavenger pump.jpg

scavange 2.jpg

I cleaned it up, made sure it was all up to spec and then replaced the gasket, and modifying it per the Wingovations tip.

gasket.jpg

When buttoning it back up, note that there are two screws which are longer. They go here:

long screw placement.jpg

[Rat]

Great work, Thanks for the detailed description and pics.

Gord

[pierce]

Then in the case make sure that the two dowel locaters are in the correct position, and place the gasket on.

oil pump gasket.jpg

Then just slide it into place delicately making sure that everything is correctly oriented, and the gasket isn't damaged while doing so.

oilpump install.jpg

oil pump install2.jpg

[pierce]

The oil pump tube will go straight through to the other side where the scavenge pump will slide onto it.

oil pump tube.jpg

Then tighten down the two bolts and the pump is ready to go.

oil pump bolts.jpg

Then slide the scavenge pump over the tube (it will only fit one way) and tighten it down.

scavange pump.jpg

[pierce]

Just a not, I am converting my clutch to the 1200 hydraulic, so I am going to be using the oil pump gear from the 1200 which has one less tooth. This will make the pump work with a bit more efficiency.

1000 vs 1200 gear:

DSCF0833.jpg

The gear won't be placed on until after the case is joined. It simply bolts in place with a washer to the scavenge pump.