Eight Pounds and 40 Stone Build

[Red2trike]

Tube useage came from having 8 foot long tubes that were replaced in shop. Since the 2 x 4's we had were "not" straight"...we thought...why not. Only problem is BIG FOOTED, OFF-BALANCED workers near the bike projects. Crunch, was NOT a good sound while taking measurements.

Keeping engine level is important as for keeping oiling system full of oil and not air bubbles. Yeah, I know but what about cornering?? I think the sump is deep enough to handle that issue. I just know from working of the early CB750's that a few engines spun bearings because the engine was tilting up ...too much. This is the only reason I mention it. This has nothing to do with tracking.

You got the right idea about measuring the "gap" and thus a fairly accurate way to check the tracking of the front/rear wheels. As you mention, rear wheel plumb is needed as well (even for the front tire/forks). Vertical is important as this helps to keep tire wear fairly even side to side.

Using all these items will get you some fairly accurate numbers and you can keep these on hand (cards file, etc.) and use as a baseline for future changes or mods.

RT2

[bladredhead]

fluorescent tubes have mercury in them, and new 2x4s are pretty cheap. better yet, some electrical conduit that won't warp or be adversely affected by the odd contact with the BIG FOOTED or OFF-BALANCED. they're 10 feet long too, could almost check one of those fancypants $40k choppers.

the infamous isle of man goldwing race bike tilted the engine "up" a few degrees for clearance.

[bonneblktrk]

Another good idea with the conduit. I have some DOM to used for the swingarm fabracation could use but conduit would be lighter.

Adapted the GL1800 differential spline to the GL1000 spline fitting. Will weld the joint at the small shaft spline after I get end joint welded. Got it tacked and I trued it in the lathe after each tack. Used two layers of .020 steel shim stock to center the GL1800 piece into the GL1000 fitting. Will check runout when final welding also.

[bonneblktrk]

Got a rough plan for how the DOM tubing will be run with this wire frame mockup. Going to use 1 1/4" dia. for the three main tubes and 1"dia. for the bracing pieces. Also looks like the shock attachment and linkage will fit.

Have some counterbores to put in the end plates of sa to locate the tubing and lighten it up some.

[KYpondman]

In a previous thread there were pictures of an Isle of Mann GL1000 Gt racer in which the engine is anything but level! Could not figure how to post picture or link.
Claude

[bonneblktrk]

Thanks Kypondman. Ya I have read where people change the angle of the engine for various reasons.

I did block the frame differently which lowered it about 2 inches and it is level now. And it is level now. I think it looks better at that height.

[Red2trike]

Looking good!!! Trying to imagine your swing arm mock-up with all componets in place/attached. Hope you can have that "simple look" to the shock mount/s as well. Level is good as well.

About the engine levels others have mentioned: I have not seen the pics but if you've got some link I'd like to see the engine. Always interested in "absurd" use of stuff! Am wondering if a dry oil sump system was used in many of these apps.

RT2

[bonneblktrk]

Thank you. On the shock, just needs a mount on the sa for the linkage attachment, a mount to the lower frame for that L shaped lever arm, and a top mount for the shock.

Want to keep it "clean", have to watch myself to not "overbuild" stuff and get too complicated. Good engineering has a "elegant" solution to designing, which I mostly lack the schooling. lol.

I think wingmandwn mentioned engine level in the thread "transverse mount bonneville salt flats".

[HOTT]

So Cool

[bonneblktrk]

Got some more done, counterbored holes for nipples to locate sa tubes.

Tack the swingarm pivot assembly together. No binding.

Assembled the sa to start forming tubing. Don't have a bender, going to use the old way we used in the Navy, I was a shipfitter. Pack the tubes with sand, plug the ends to hold the sand and heat with torch to hand bend. Hope it works, and not too labor intensive. To get a decent bender costs quite a bit, from my research $400-500. Can buy a lot of oyx/acetylene and gloves! ha.

[bonneblktrk]

Update: tube bendin'

Didn't like the curve of the first Right hand tube so bend another around a 3 inch pipe. Has better shape.

Going to make one more tube below the RH one on rear to diagonal from it on sa pivot block.

These three will be the main structural components with bracing after shock mount is figured out.

Tube formed well with little collapsing.

[wingrider]

That is going to look awesome!

[Red2trike]

RT2

[bonneblktrk]

Have the final structural tube bent up. Forming with the torch works pretty well. Was able to adjust the bends to line up better with just heat and not having to pack with sand.

Next: Take the sssa apart to cleanup finish from nicks and deformed bends. Will machine some decorative things on the two swingarm block assemblies. Grinding and forming blocks to contour the corners. Get close to ready-to-paint condition before welding of sssa pieces.

[robin1731]

So you're not going to put any cross bracing between those tubes?