It just looks like trash!

[Easter]

In preparation for painting the engine, I wanted to get all the maintenance out of the way. Pulled the clutch cover today and disassembled the clutch. Was pleased to see all was neat and clean and the oil was clear. Now I have a dilemma (once again), the clutch springs and plates mic well within spec. but they are 38 years old! Will they hold up or should I bite the bullet and order new parts? I don't want to do another clutch swap in-frame! But $60 or so--

Open for suggestions.

[wingrider]

I guess if you are concerned, you can put in new springs. Haven't priced them out, but shouldn't be all that much. If the clutch specs out, I wouldn't worry to much about it.

You planning on having this one stock power, or are you giving it a little bit more? If more, I would consider a 1200 clutch upgrade. Not cheap, but gets you a stronger clutch.

[Easter]

The engine will remain stock.

[Easter]

There are some parts on ebay that make the 1200 clutch conversion seem practical. Are there noticeable differences in actual use between the mechanical clutch and the hydraulic clutch? Is the round clutch cover the only external part that needs to be replaced?

[wingrider]

From what I have gathered, in order to get the best "bang" out of the 1200 setup, you need to have the 1200 clutch basket as well.

Old Fogey did a write up in shoptalk about the conversion, but from what I recall, he didn't find it a whole lot better. Once he put in the 1200 innards, then it seemed better.

I would also venture a guess that you could ask Sunnbobb how the 1200 parts working with the 1000 internals feel compared to stock, as I believe he has done several conversions, most noted was the Vaincre project.

Just some food for thought.

[Easter]

Update: decided to stick with the original clutch so re-installed. Replacement fuel pump arrived today. Picked up the triple tree from the machinist today. He was able to simply machine the '94 CB1000 shaft to match the '75 shaft. I have the new bearings and seals so will probably test fit the front forks this week end. Have a bid in on some Suzuki clip-ons.

I finally opted to go with original CB1000 wheel and rotors instead of trying to adapt a spoke wheel. That means that I will be using a Comstar for the back wheel. Front tire is an 18 and the rear is 17 so I guess that will work out all right. I haven't decided yet whether to polish or powder coat the wheels. With three Wings I am already getting tired of polishing chrome so am thinking of mostly paint and powder coat on this build. Will try to update the photos this week end. Hope to get the engine primed and start stripping the frame and swing-arm.

[Easter]

Installed the steering head bearings and races today. I haven't been able to seat the top race all the way into the head stock, but it seems to fit OK otherwise. It is in far enough all the other components fit properly. Installed the forks just to see what it looks like and how everything fits. The picture below shows the '94 CB 1000 ("the big one") forks mounted in their original triple tree after the head shaft was modified as described previously. These are 43mm forks compared to the original 36mm. They are also a couple of inches longer which will allow me to mount clip-on bars above the triple tree. I now have a complete front end (minus fender and headlight) from the '94, purchased from three different sources. Actually four if you count the extra axle I bought before settling on the original front wheel which came with an axle. Now it is time to get on with the cleaning and painting of various components. I powder coated my last frame and was very happy with it but it is expensive so I may just paint this time. Gas tank is a real mess inside so I have been putting that off also. Plan to just dump in the acid (1 to 4 ratio) and stand back.

[wingrider]

Love big forks....

Do you happen to have a picture of the new front rim? Is the Comstar going to look good with it, or would something like a Lester look better?

[Easter]

I don't have a photo handy and the wheel is not here yet. It is the three spoke style (sort of like a propeller ) I am just hoping the Comstar will be sufficiently hidden that it will not be too noticeable. I will probably paint or powder coat to black. I like the Lester but I don't think it would be any better match.

[Scottinaz]

the acid works good, and is relatively fast. I ran mine straight up (used the "safer" version from wally world). Put in 2 gallons. I let mine sit in various positions for about 30 min each, and it took the rust right out. if you have heavy deposits (like I did) then it may take a while to get it out, but it is sure faster than the electrolysis method (I did that for a week, and still didnt get all the rust out)

[Easter]

My project the last several days has been to try to get the tank cleaned up. I started with muriatic acid in approximately 4 to 1 ratio and let that sit for 30 hours or so. Lots of rusty looking crud came out with the water/acid but a lot was left even after all that time. So being the impatient type I put a gallon of straight acid in and shook it around off and on for an hour or so, then poured it out. More crud but now I am left with a gooey black tar like substance over much of the bottom of the tank. Nothing seems to dissolve it to any great degree. Even straight lacquer thinner used on the sensor float required a wire brush to dissolve the goo.

Can this be 20 year old gasoline or is it some kind of attempt to coat the tank? The supply tubes inside the tank are partially or completely plugged. I can get bubbles when blowing air at 90 psi out of one and nothing from the other. Only a slow dribble of water comes out of the one that passes air. The tank is in otherwise good condition but I don't know if I can get this stuff out completely.

[wingrider]

The stuff in the tank sounds like not such a good time...hard to get at regardless. Old gas can be a bugger to clean up, but it almost sounds like you may have a bit of coating in there.

I seem to recall a post about someone getting the supply tubes unplugged...have to see if I can find it.

I don't know what you have for Muriatic acid down there....up here you can get some stuff that isn't as strong at the local big box stores, but stronger stuff from a pool chemical supplier.

[Scottinaz]

I ran the inner cable section of a bicycle brake cable through the tubes to ensure they were cleaned out. Roto-rooter style if you will.

[Easter]

Brake cable--good idea. Thanks

[sunnbobb]

Good chance its old Kreme. Might try acetone soak.