Ignition timing...and coils...Help lost

[madhouze803]

Hi all,


I bought a 76 GL1000 from a guy in my neighborhood for a cheap price. I've been going through it and had to replace the main fuse, starter and solenoid. Tried to start and wouldn't fire, BUT sounded like it wanted to. I ended up checking the timing belts and the left side belt was off by my account 20 degrees give or take (2" above the case marks), got the belt lined up right on. tired to fire it up and it fired BUT only ran on the left 2 cylinders. I went back to check the points gap and ignition timing. noticed that the left side points weren't moving much and that the arm had a gap while riding the cam lobe.
I bought a set of points to replaced them. When I pulled the base plate out I did check the spark advance mechanism, but have no clue what to look for in a bad one, the springs work, open with my hand and retract by them self. Got the new points in, replaced them, set the gap to .016" and moved to the timing. Turn the crank to F-1 and hooked my circuit light to the left spring and negative battery terminal, I can rotated it till the light dimmed then tightened the screws down. Next I moved to the F-2 mark and light hooked to the right spring I cant seem to find a spot where the light dims or even turns off. I did have a piece of cardboard in the opposite side points when doing this. The bike wont fire up now and I've been playing with this for this the last few days.

I was going to TRY Randakks split the timing but I honestly don't understand it.

My other question is about the coils, I know the stock coils are 3ohms, I have a cb750 (3ohm coils stock) project that i'm bailing on but have the dyna 2000 ignition that came with the 2.2 ohm coils, Can I use these with the ballast resistor and points?

Thanks for all the help...

[ericheath]

It took me many times reading Randakks split method. Stick with it. His wording is all correct, it's a lot to digest. If your timing was off by 20 degrees, I am not optimistic. They say two teeth will bend the valves, I think. I hate to be a bearer of bad news and hope I'm wrong. I would suggest a compression test. If the two cylinders are low on the same side......not good. Not the end, and not a terrible job.

[backyardbob]

something to check just in case....When the f1 mark is up no. 1 cyl must be at tdc. (both rockers will be loose) you can have it on F1 on the next rev. and nothing works.