GL1000 Running OK But!

[CYBORG]

In my opinion filling the combustion chamber of the head with fuel is a good test. If it hasn't leaked, I'd in stall it. But if you have a bent valve, it must be replaced

[robin1731]

Usually we fill the port (intake or exhaust) with denatured alcohol to test. But yes, bent valves should be replaced.

[olchris]

If you know the valves are bent?? then I would replace them. Used but serviceable valves should be available cheaper then the head gasket I would think??

Thanks for your quick reply Whiskerfish,.......I think were "bent"....... I put them in the lathe and ground (touched up) the valve face to make it symetrical to stem... Im talking near invisable but a few thou whilst in lathe....

Where i live is in the boonie's, a long way to someplace, and finding a valve or two via internet would likely be a month!!! The local dealers find it just too hard if its "out of warranty"...
Whiskerfish, you are correct in what you say, but having fuel sitting in the combustion chamber and not leaking into ports seem a fairly good outcome for a boilermaker/welder.... 20 yrs ago i would've put fuel in chambers and if not leaking within a minute it would be good to go..... So unless, and hopefully somebody can raise an argument why i shouldnt reinstall the head it will be refitted tomorow.. I am curious as to whether others have stuck 100PSI up the ports directed to the valve seat to check for "leaks" because this is the first time i have used this method and not sure of its appropriate use..

I hear you Cyborg!!!...n Robin..

[CYBORG]

I'm usually concerned more about the leakage from the combustion chamber then the port to the chamber. But its an interesting idea. The compression in the cylinder will help to keep the valves closed, when they are closed. So checking the seal from the combustion side makes more sense to me

[olchris]

All good to bolt back on today!.. 7pm last night I filled combustion chambers with fuel and place a sheet of tin with a bit of weight to hold down and minimize evaporation and this morning, 9am, there is still fuel covering the valves in both chambers.. So all good.

Cyborg, your right of course and i understand what you say..I guess blowing comp air up the ports is my "quick" test... Suprisingly when i initially feed intake ports with air absolutely no bubbles were seen, as much as i tried on intakes..... where exhausts were as shown in pics....

[olchris]

Its up and running after a "what could go wrong will day" im still a bit @*&$@ how it runs.... I did the valves yesterday and bolted up this morning and filled with coolant............ OK here we go, but OH NO coolant puddling in the recesses inside/behind of induction port tubes.. blew it all away and noticed coolant seeping from head gasket joint ???????? rechecked tension @ 40lbs and OK.... Well i must have picked a something on the gasket, so i pulled it off "AGAIN" and found nothing to inhibit proper sealing...... The gasket used was from a set of "no name" gaskets which i picked up.... As per my normal practice i spray all head gaskets with a "copper paint?" to aid sealing..


Got to be carefull which gasket you use.. fortunately i have another set and used one of them and all worked out... Lucky for me i looked at the oil level window and thought "thats odd" was just above the lower mark before all this??? so i drained the oils to find this......



Lucky i didnt start it up and contaminate the oil ways etc..... Once the oil was changed it started up and was "different" on the RHS..... that being a lot stronger and sharper exhaust note and none of the "slight blue flame" things as previous..... Once warmed up and i hold it at 2-3k rpms it still "backfires" from RHS...



Talk about getting intimately involved with you bike......... pain of a thing!

haha and yeah forgot to say that i dislodged the cam oil seal and on initial start up all this "spooge" dribbled out of RHS belt cover... So drain radiator adjust rad , release cam retainers, pull cover and push poke, reset tappets and so on n on on....

[ericheath]

Honda updated the torque specs for head gaskets to 43-45lbs for the 1000 models. Maybe it was 41-45lbs? I do mine to 45. Recheck after a few warm cycles.

[olchris]

Thanks Eric i did go around and retension LHS and RHS to 45lbS..

I was a bit dissappointed, yesterday with how it ran considering the re-work i did to valves, but then i thought that half of the engine now has different compresion because the valves are actually doing what they were intended for... so the carbs will be sucking a lot better/different and the previous "sync" of the carbies will have altered...

Now after re-sync it seems to have lost the backfires at 2-3k rpms and at idle is well behaved... So lets hope its cured! fingers crossed..

[olchris]

The above is all back together again and seem fine but!!!

Anyway this next topic maybe should have its own "topic" but its well and truly a part of some of my Gremlins within my bike

Flasher relays!!!!! (with Dyna Igintion Modules) I cant say conclusively whether the flasher unit has any bearing on my previous issues, and my gut feeling it doesnt ( but i know SFA about electronics) but on 3 seperate occasions when test riding with my "backup buddie" my flashers would stop working after about 5-8 times, eg several sets of lights and corners! .. If and when i get home the indicators will work or there is a "buzzing" noise coming from the flasher unit... Switch all off, pull unit and replace with same and it works????.... I can start up bike on bench, turn indicator on and after 4-5minutes and flashers stop... Though there is good volt charge rate and healthy battery

Battery is good and charging at 13.3 at idle--- 14.3 at 3K rpm
I replaced flasher with several known, good units but im not confident.. Finally put a new on in (original was new 2 pronged)...

I have aftermarket blinker lights (globes not LED) which works OK with a 3 pronged flasher unit, meaning pos/neg/grd terminals... but with 2 pronged units, pos/neg only the flashers fail after several minutes of continous use...????

Those who are familiar with Dyna Modules may have noticed that the Green (earth) wire is not plugged into the flasher unit..(well mine isnt!) Primarily because mine initially had 2 terminals only and green wire was loose.... I have put a 3 pronged flasher unit in and works for 10+minutes with out fail?? though the green wire is still not connected..... Should i connect the green wire to flasher unit and what relevance does the green have to the flasher circuitry ??????????" Thanks for your response in Advance...

[hmratbam]

The flasher is a bimetallic strip which bends when heated by the current flowing through it to the bulbs. As it is heated it bends(deflects?) opening the circuit which stops the current flow thus cooling the strip allowing it to unbend closing the contacts and the cycle repeats. After a lengthy period of constant use everything inside the little can as well as the can itself gets hot enough to keep the strip bent.

[olchris]

The flasher is a bimetallic strip which bends when heated by the current flowing through it to the bulbs. As it is heated it bends(deflects?) opening the circuit which stops the current flow thus cooling the strip allowing it to unbend closing the contacts and the cycle repeats. After a lengthy period of constant use everything inside the little can as well as the can itself gets hot enough to keep the strip bent.

Well yes that interesting!.... I did connect the green wire to the spare terminal (on a 3 terminal unit) and it promptly blew out the fuse, 2 times?????.... I then disconnected green wire and flashers would flash normally for 3-4 flashes then go into hypadrive flashes .... Maybe i cooked the new 3 terminal unit that was working fine till i connected green wire... ...now binned it. Fortunately i found a flasher unit in a spare wing harness with 3 terminals, corroded and looked "well used"... Plugged it in and it now clik/claks clik/claks as it should ............ Seems that with the "interference" we/i subject the original wiring harness too makes a difference to required flasher units!!.. I have swapped, burnt, not sure and changed flasher units 6-10 times recently............ Really is a PITA because i dont know what im doing..... I just hope the revived relic flasher unit lasts.... Surely somebody out-there knows the ins-n-out of flashers units performance and requirements and why Dyna "require" their power feed to be on the flasher power supply........ Or am i the only person that has flasher issues??

[robin1731]

Dyna does not "require" that you get power from the flasher power supply. That is just a suggestion as it is easy to access. I use the same power feed to the coils to also power they Dyna.