1200 Special with EFI- leave or convert to carbs?

[socrace]

Congratulations on getting that iconic old machine back to life!

[BikeMaine]

I had injector trouble on my Arctic Cat F7.

I tested them using a tiny 9 volt battery, it was easier than using a 12 volt and less chance to overheat. They would click but didn't squirt well.

I pushed a 6 inch piece of tubing on the inlet end of injector, sprayed some carb cleaner down into tube, then blew on the tube with light pressure, (insert sick joke here) and while blowing a little pressure I touched the wires on. SQUIRT. I did this a half dozen times with each injector. It fixed the problem.

Also, I could unscrew the inlet side of the Cat injectors, (not sure if yours are the same way) and there was a tiny, little basket screen in there and mine had "grit" particles and dirt in them.

[Easter]

I started with bleeding the clutch as suggested. Fluid was contaminated so I spent a good deal of time trying to flush out the old and replace with new stuff. It took a while but the clutch eventually seemed to come around. I have it up on a jack and worked on the front end tonight so have not had a chance to take it out for a ride but it feels firm and I think I feel it releasing.

Belts come next before I start putting it back together. Less than 200 miles on these belts but they are 12 years old so I dare not take a chance.

[Toehead]

Great! Glad to hear it. It'll only run better once you have a few miles on it. I'm sure those injectors have a bit of junk in them to work out after sitting.

[Easter]

Tried to take it out for a test run, the clutch is working but I could not keep it running. Volt meter showed 11.3 volts so I am hoping that is why it would not run properly. I am charging the battery but am afraid the charging system is not functioning properly. Will have to start on that if it will run with a fresh charge.

I know there were some historical issues with the charging system on the early 1200s, anyone know what years were affected and what the cure is? I am not crazy about the idea of an add on alternator.

[robin1731]

snip................
I know there were some historical issues with the charging system on the early 1200s, anyone know what years were affected and what the cure is?

Some had stator issues. But I would think by now it would have been changed. Although I have done a few 1200 stators in the past few years. Not that bad to change one out. But I'm not sure finding a stator for the EFI model is as easy as regular 1200. At least an OEM one. There is a difference.

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[Easter]

re-installed the battery and fiddled around with the supply side of the fuel line. That big hose is easy to kink and shut off the fuel.I am still scratching my head as to how this should fit. It has a 90 degree bend in it that just doesn't seem right but I can't see any other way of routing the three hoses that come together just before the fuel pump.
Moved the bike to the lift in the garage (had to get the 78 project off) so I can work on it without laying on the floor. I don't think it is charging but will run with a charged battery. Removed the aftermarket floor boards. They interfere with the side stand in a dangerous way and I don't think the heel-toe shifter was working right either. So now I have to track down stock pegs as well. Since I have to do belts I might as well have it up where it is convenient.

Robin, can that stator be installed without removing the engine? Hope so because if I get that deep into this project what goes back together will not look like what I am taking apart.

[irishcarbomb]

Engine has to come out for the stator. The whole back cover has to come off.

I would double check the plug first to make sure it's not corroded or melted.

[Toehead]

Any chance you can move that silver canister ( surge tank?) closer to the fuel tank to give yourself more room to make the bend?

[Easter]

Any chance you can move that silver canister ( surge tank?) closer to the fuel tank to give yourself more room to make the bend?

It is a really tight fit already, possibly the return hoses are too long causing the canister to be too low, I am not sure. They have OEM style clamps on them.

Learned something else today--1200s don't use the same timing belts as 1100s and 1000s! Spent a half hour trying to work a new belt on the pulley, finally checked the cross-over list here and see that they require a different belt.

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[robin1731]

I've done a stator change on a 1200, not standard, with stock exhaust, right at 8 hours. Start to finish by myself. Engine does have to come out but you can swing it out just enough to remove the rear cover. Tie the carbs up to the frame. Drive shaft is spring loaded so much easier than a 1000 or 1100.

Might be a little longer with the EFI.

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[Easter]

Might be a lot longer with me doing it! Ha.
Might be the reason the bike sat for 12 years after having fresh belts etc.!
Still have to do some checking before I start tearing it down, am just going by the volt meter on the dash. Had a 81 CB750 with similar symptoms, after installing a new stator, turned out to be a bad regulator/rectifier .

[robin1731]

Yeah, always check the easy stuff first.

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