Carb Help

[Carson.0]

Just picked the bike.up recently and it was obvious the carbs needed love. It's a 76 with the correct 758A carbs. Someone else just loved them wrong.

Carbs 2 and 4 weren't bad but both carbs have had jets changed. It now has a #65 primary fuel jet, #125 secondary fuel jet, and #110 secondary air jet! Others are stock size.

First question is does anyone have the part number for the #60 secondary that's supposed to be there. And the other stock jets?

Carbs 1 and 3 are much worse as far as being dirty. The choke is stuck, the one air jet had a broken ear on 3 and 1 is just plugged solid so who knows if they also have the wrong air jet but it's weird these two carbs look like they got half cleaned while the others got a better cleaning. Carb 1 also has severe pitting on the internals where the fuel jets go. The small idle tube is also bent and twisted.

Is it worth trying to save these ones or try to find another set?

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[Whiskerfish]

Wow somebody really had their way with those. They are probably salvageable. I would try but generally I have a lot of time to devote to such a project.

Aftermarket jets are available but not highly recommended. I have used some from http://www.siriusconinc.com/search_resu ... rch=search with success. The other idea is to buy another rack and salvage the jets from it.

[Carson.0]

I checked the site out all they have is rebuild kits for each one. I plan on getting the randakk master kit and some other bits anyways so I really only need to be able to get the proper Jets.

[Old Fogey]

The one in your first picture is too far gone with corrosion. Ok, the float pin towers could be removed and replaced with the Randakk repair kit and the outsides of the jet towers repaired with resin; the problem would be the insides of the jet towers where the corrosion would not allow the O rings to seal. Or the alternative, if you really need to use it, is to seal around the jets with resin once they are fitted. Use phenolic resin, as you find in many of the tank sealer kits.
I have sealed many carbs up like this with no resin problems
The idle fuel tubes (second picture) will press out from the inside. Do not lever against the butterfly as the shaft is brass and easily bent. New tubes can be had from Randakk.
The third one. Extract the broken jet with a #1 Easyout. They come out easy enough (usually!). The rest is just dirt. Get scrubbing, or preferably find someone with an ultrasonics cleaner.

New air pipe kit here:
http://www.wingovations.com/air-tube-kits/4579471069

Or complete air tube, fuel pipes and filter kit here:
http://www.wingovations.com/braided-fue ... 4579471070

[Carson.0]

The actual inside where the oring sits isn't actually that bad so I may try the resin trick and the float towers aren't quite as bad as the pictures seem. I've never actually seen the inside of a carb become that pitted what would cause that.

Still no good ideas where to source jets from other than buying a whole rack of eBay? (and hoping they have stock ones)

[jdvorchak]

I've never actually seen the inside of a carb become that pitted what would cause that.

I've seen that corrosion before and my best guess was moisture from sitting out. Carbs are not sealed and do vent and water does condense.

[Track T 2411]

I've never actually seen the inside of a carb become that pitted what would cause that.

I've seen that corrosion before and my best guess was moisture from sitting out. Carbs are not sealed and do vent and water does condense.

Bingo! Especially if they've been left full of ethanol fuel. I have a sneaking suspicion that corrosion contributed to the issues I've experienced with one 1100 carb and the idle pilot screw...

[Old Fogey]

The problem is the lousy Zamac (zinc/aluminium) alloy they uaed in the early carbs. Once the Dichromate dipped plating wears off, the zinc reacts with any water. Coating the whole float chamber is the answer, even on carbs that are not already starting to rot. On those you need to slightly roughen the surfaces to give the resin a key.
You can use the #65 jets, they will help the off idle stumble as will the 110 air jets. You only need to drop the #125 to #120.
Buy them here: http://jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor ... ndary.html

[Carson.0]

Won't the 110 air jets be way oversized from the 60 they're supposed to be at?

[Old Fogey]

I'm talking idle air jets here, in the brass elbows. Yours are supposed to be 115s, the 110s will help.

[Carson.0]

Ok the one I was mentioning is the one under the kidney plate that's supposed to be a 60 and someone put 110s in there instead.

[Old Fogey]

Ah, right. Yes, you need them out of there! The Keihin / Honda part number is
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/h ... -0600.html

[robin1731]

Ok the one I was mentioning is the one under the kidney plate that's supposed to be a 60 and someone put 110s in there instead.

Make sure those jets are in the correct hole. The 75-77, and the early 78 call for 60's and 120's. But you see them switched around in the wrong hole all the time. One of the aftermarket manuals show them backwards.

.

[Carson.0]

Yep I noticed taking them apart there was a couple of the carbs had them in the wrong spots!

[Old Fogey]

Sorry, the link I gave you for the part number shows obsolete. I should have known that. They are difficult to find. However this one is showing 4 of them:

http://hondanut.startlogic.com/noshonda ... s1314s.htm

You need to contact them at http://cart.hondanuts.com/Custom_Webpage-W2.aspx