New to this forum

[grandfaloon]

Greetings and salutations, just bought two Goldwings, a 75 to save, and a 79 runner to ride around on.
The 79 was purchased through Craigslist as a runner. What I found told a different story:
Brought it into my shop, and began the list. The steering head bearings ratcheted, and had caked in Grease, probably 20 years old, or older, front tire was cracked and needed immediate replacement, the rear tire was 11 years old, so it was due. The timing belts needed replacement, because, you just don't know, change them, along with the idler pulleys. The water pump had seepage, so that had to be replaced also. While I was in there, all wheel bearings were in desperate need of grease and were rough, so they had to go. Both front brake disks, worn, so that's a rebuild with new stainless lines, seals, and pads.
While I had the front forks off they get new seals also, the slider bushings seemed Ok, so they get a pass, but I am adding a fork stiffener, just because. New radiator hoses, fuel lines, fuel filter, and sparking plugs. The cables, swing arm, and bushings get lubed.
So TLDR: Just because someone has a shop, has the records, and explains how well they maintain their motorcycle, let the buyer beware.
I was expecting as much, so it did not come as a financial surprise, but I could have used it for a bargaining point, had I know what lurked under that polished surface.

[ritalz]

Welcome aboard. Looks like you have a nice variety bikes to ride. What corner of the world do you call home?

[TNTbefree]

Welcome to the club.

[Track T 2411]

Welcome from Wisconsin! Sounds like you've found most of the typical foibles of the early Wings, lol. There are a couple more things you might want to check as well. There is a connector just in front of the battery box with three yellow wires that are the stator wires. It is common for that connector to overheat and melt due to corrosion. Most people just cut out the connector and solder up the wires. IIRC, there is a simple write-up in ShopTalk. To the rear of the battery box is the starter solenoid, and on the front of that is the main 30 amp fuse. Stock, it is a dogbone type fuse, and are known to be troublesome. The fuse can be fairly easily converted to a modern blade type fuse by adding a fuse holder. Just something to think about...

[Rat]

Welcome to the 'Wingdom.

Lots of info in 'Shoptalk' too.

Gord

[grandfaloon]

Welcome aboard. Looks like you have a nice variety bikes to ride. What corner of the world do you call home?

SoCal Moreno Valley Have a couple of projects for the wet months, the dry months we ride

[grandfaloon]

Welcome from Wisconsin! Sounds like you've found most of the typical foibles of the early Wings, lol. There are a couple more things you might want to check as well. There is a connector just in front of the battery box with three yellow wires that are the stator wires. It is common for that connector to overheat and melt due to corrosion. Most people just cut out the connector and solder up the wires. IIRC, there is a simple write-up in ShopTalk. To the rear of the battery box is the starter solenoid, and on the front of that is the main 30 amp fuse. Stock, it is a dogbone type fuse, and are known to be troublesome. The fuse can be fairly easily converted to a modern blade type fuse by adding a fuse holder. Just something to think about...

I will take this under advisement as I hate electrical gremlins. I plan on following the tips, and soldering them, and converting the fuse. I do have a nice, but older, supply of Aircraft circuit breakers, high quality, and reset-able, which I might use in place of a one use fuse.

BTW, when I opened the gas tank to check for corrosion, I found the gas cap keeper at the bottom, just starting to rust. Pulled that sucker out. It had a brass chain, which was stretched and kind of flat. Glad I found it.

[Sugs]

Welcome to the site!

[chewy999]

Welcome from the UK, all the help you'll need can be found here.

[77Gowing]

Welome.