Neutral switch replacement

[OldRider2]

I'm going to replace the Neutral Switch in my 1977 GL1000 over the winter but it looks like I should replace O-ring for it as well. The original Part Number 91306-371-013 isn't available from most Honda places. I can find it as "cheap" as under $6 on ebay and other places to much higher at others. Is there a good source for this or do I bite the bullet and order one on eBay or go to a Napa place and start measuring a whole bunch of o-rings? Are there any parts stores that stock Metric sizes for o-rings?

By the way I was on Partzilla yesterday and any part has free shipping for 12/2 and 12/3/19

[rcmatt007]

I am pretty sure the neutral switch comes with an o-ring

[OldRider2]

Thanks RC. I just checked with Partzilla and the guy said it didn't come with one.

[rcmatt007]

I did look on chapomoto and they show it back ordered, so it may be close to not available, although one would think it is a pretty standard size

[Sidecar Bob]

Most of the "metric" o-rings on old Hondas are actually inch sizes converted to mm. The one you need is 17.7X2.7, which is the same as a 11/16" ID x 29/32" OD (you can probably use 15/16 OD).

[OldRider2]

Thanks Sidecar. I didn't realize the orings were US sizes converted to MM. I came up with the 11/16" converting the 17.7 mm but wasn't sure if that was the ID or OD. When the switch gets here I plan to go down to NAPA with a micrometer to see what they have that's close. Several years ago I had taken the differential off from my 1982 GL1100 and needed an oring so went to my local True Value, found one that was close and installed it and never remember having a problem afterwards.

[Sidecar Bob]

Honda always specifies the ID and wire (cross section). This has tripped up a few people over the years when they bought from suppliers that specify the OD and wire.
In fact, someone one CX500forum just posted that he ordered a couple of o-rings from Silver's using the Honda part number but instead of the usual bag with the Honda label on it they came in a plain plastic bag with the Honda number written on in marker and they were too small. Silver's told him they would send the correct item but I haven't heard if the replacements are correct yet.

[OldRider2]

Success! I finished replacing the Neutral Switch today after finally paying $6 for a NOS o-ring on ebay for the switch. I had no luck finding an oring locally. It wasn't to bad replacing the switch, following the steps in Shoptalk. I was having a hard time getting the switch out and remembered someone said they had moved the shifter and the switch popped out. I did that and it I finally got it out. It took me longer than the two hours "Roncar" did but I'm slow! The best thing was there were no oil leaks after putting it back together and the Neutral light now works instead of always staying on. Now it's time to wait for warmer weather to ride the bike!

[Fred Camper]

Good to know it works again. The neutral light also stays on if the diode is shorted and that too is common on 40 year old diodes. Hence the reason so many neutrals lights continously glow as it can fail due to at least two components.

[OldRider2]

10-4 Fred. I had checked the diodes and wiring at different times, hoping I would stumble onto the problem with the light but nothing jumped out at me. The light always went out in second gear and then came back on. I hated to spend the money for a new switch but after having two used ones figured it was worth a try. I'm glad I did it, it was about the only thing that wasn't working right on the bike.

[BlueThunder]

Replacing mine on a GL1000 is on hold. It is such a pain to replace that I propose that Honda engineers be given an electric shock for every minute that it takes to replace. What a dumb design move to put it where you can't access without either pulling the motor or use a myriad of levers to twist the chassis or motor.

I used Castrol 20W50 oil (yes, I know a kitten just died) which is a detergent oil and it cleaned the switch contacts to where it now works correctly. It only took two years to do so...

[Sidecar Bob]

What's wrong with Castrol? I use Castrol 4 stroke motorcycle oil...

As for bad design, there are only so many places on an engine that are easy to get at when it is in the frame so good design involves putting the things you need to get at often where you can get at them easily and the things you probably won't need to bother with for decades where they aren't so easy to get at.
That said, how long did your neutral switch last? The one on my GL1000 engine was still working the last time the engine ran. So we're talking about something that occasionally needs to be replaced 30-40 years into the life of a machine they probably didn't expect to last more than about 10 years. Sounds like a prime candidate to mount in a less easy to access place to me...

Now the cover for the oil filter screen is another matter. That is supposed to be removed for cleaning regularly but really, prying the frame out to get at it? That should have been in a better location. I know I never cleaned it when the engine was in the frame because of that.....