Dyna set up

[Gowing]

I’m checking my dyna setup on my 75. Should the light come on, for #3 and #4 blue wire, when F2 goes by or the T just past F2? Thank you.

[gltriker]

F is the static ignition time mark you set the Dyna to.

T is top dead center.
The static ignition timing would be 5 degrees retarded if set on the T mark..

[Gowing]

Thank you Cliff. Valves set, dyna set. Valves were fine, dyna was off.
I had surging at 3000 rpm 3rd gear. New rebuilt carbs, the valves and carb sync wouldn’t take it away but the reset of dyna sure did. It was the timing, but you would think it was carbs.

[gltriker]

You are welcome, Dave.
I reckon keeping these GL1000 engines running as they should, is a rolling science experiment.

[rcmatt007]

yes F means fire... it should be before T (top dead center) as you actually want the ignition process to start before it is actually at the top... if you were doing this with a running engine and timing light if you hi the throttle it would "advance" to a place even further before the F

[Gowing]

Our goldwings stay in tune so long I forget and have to scramble to find information, that I’m sure I already knew, when the time comes. Ngw is information and help in almost real time. Invaluable, thank you. Rodger.

[rcmatt007]

The last time I had to time my 78 was in 1979 when I put in a prestolite ignition.... ah, the good old days....

[redglbx]

One thing I would add to all this is I would use a degree wheel and verify that the flywheel timing marks are correct. My 76 had the F-2 timing mark 6 degrees retarded to the F-1. My bike was always a thrasher at idle which I initially attributed to the points or point cam and then the prestolite ignition I replaced the points with. And countless hours with the carbs and replacing the prestolite with a dyna I finally came to the realization it was something else, after about an hour setting my degree wheel up to reflect TDC I came to the realization that the F2 mark was retarded 6 degrees. Remarking the flywheel correctly and now after 40 some years it idles like a g-wing should,, sewing machinish ! Just smooth & responsive. Just like they should be !

As a side note, I learned to always set my ignitions up with a degree wheel, they just work better!

[redglbx]

Let me add a bit to my post above, I have always “static” timed my bike(s) but this week I removed the LH cam belt cover and set my degree wheel up on the left cam. Since I had previously verified that the “T1” & F1 marks were spot on using the degree wheel and a piston stop on the crank I just set the zero on the degree wheel to the F1 mark and fired it up. Lo & behold the long rumored static timing over advances the timing myth is true, my bike shows the timing advanced 4 deg to the spec. So I reset things to spec and checked the advance for proper operation which was fine, if not maybe a bit fast due to years ago I had disassembled it and polished all the rubbing surfaces, works smoothly.

Also checked the f2 timing and found it to be about 2-3 degrees advanced to the f1 so I reset that to match exactly, definite improvement.

So personally I would highly recommend only doing the timing dynamically as it seems to give much more accurate results, this of course resulted in changing the carb balance (everything does) so i went through and reset all that. The engine runs noticeably smoother.

Also as a side note, I use (mostly) a 4 channel Carbtune to balance my carbs, some time ago I bought some new vacuum line to replace the stuff that came with the carBtune that kept splitting. I had trouble with 1 channel being very sluggish or not working for some time now, just figured that tube needed cleaning but what I found was that the sluggishness followed the rubber vacuum line and what I ultimately found was that when I tried to pass a small welding rod through it, it hit a hard stop. Close exam found that the hose had a splice I it with a solid plastic nipple holding the piece’s together. I personally pulled this off the roll but never have seen this so just something to watch for.

The carb balance went much better !

[Gowing]

Thanks redglbx,
I better re-sync my carbs because I had to move both side of the dyna to get the light to come on at f-2 and f-1.
Will be interesting to see how off the sync is. Cause I felt good about last sync. Needles ligned up at 1000rpm.

[redglbx]

Go, it wasn’t very bad on my 76 but it did change things since I changed the setting on the dyna for the 1-2 vs the 3-4 sets. Probably if I hadn’t changed that balance it would’ve been ok.

Except of course for the issue I had with the carbtune Vacuum hose,,,,, grrrr. Much better now !