first 200 miles observations, cold clatter, missing gear

[nakedinterstate81]

Yes I did, but I am going to look at again.

[Gowing]

Rotella T6 is full synthetic. Most don’t use full synthetic in our old wings. Just like Track T said above.

[Track T 2411]

I checked out the belt tension on the '79 engine I'm working on (with the modified tensioner pulleys like yours) just to see. It has about 1/4 inch deflection, and if I really twist the belt I get close to 90 degrees. I've never heard of that method before, but it would seem to be in the ballpark...
Just to be clear on the oil, I DO run Rotella T6 in Layla with absolutely no issues. Grumpy (the one that shifts hard at times), had a hard life before I got it, and I think suffers from deeper issues.

[robin1731]

Rotella T6 is full synthetic. I’ve read it can make our clutches act up. At least.
Most don’t use full synthetic in our old wings. Just like Track T said above.

As long as it is JASO rated, used for wet clutches, full synthetic oil is fine. I've run it for years in different bikes from the 70's with no issued. An old wives tail that got started way back in the day ( synthetic will ruin a bike clutch).

.

[Lucien Harpress]

The only issues Rotella has given me is that my starter clutch occasionally slips when it's REALLY cold out. Like below 30F.

Now if you'll excuse me, I need to check on my puppy before this becomes a full-blown oil thread.

[nakedinterstate81]

I've seen the belt twist check in a Youtube video about changing timing belts on a GW.
Before I put the covers back on I had to scratch some rubber off the new kia pulleys.
I guess I need to check on them after riding 300 miles.
Dreading to take the radiator off again

Oh, one other thing puzzled me. It was 80F and I was riding the back roads keeping the rpms up and when I came to a stop I noticed the temp gauge almost in the red but no fan coming on.
When is that fan actually supposed to run?

I tested the thermostat and switch in boiling water with a MM and they checked out.
Should I wire it so I can switch it on/off?

[nakedinterstate81]

If there is a way to test the fan operation please let me know.
I am pulling the radiator tonight to check on the timing belt.

[ob1quixote]

pull the water temperature switch wiring connector and short the terminals to each other, the fan should turn on.

if it turns on while shorted, replace the temperature switch.
if it doesnt turn on, measure the voltage at the switch terminals.
if 12vdc is present, check the wiring to the fan
if 12vdc is not present, check the wiring back to the battery

also, apply 12vdc directly to the fan pigtail to ensure the fan will run

[CYBORG]

pull the water temperature switch wiring connector and short the terminals to each other, the fan should turn on.

if it turns on while shorted, replace the temperature switch.
if it doesnt turn on, measure the voltage at the switch terminals.
if 12vdc is present, check the wiring to the fan
if 12vdc is not present, check the wiring back to the battery

also, apply 12vdc directly to the fan pigtail to ensure the fan will run

don't forget the fuse. And it helps to know that positive voltage is alwys applied, and that the sending unit applies ground

[nakedinterstate81]

Thanks.

[nakedinterstate81]

12 Volt is there.
The fan turns on when shorting the connector.

Measured ohm on the switch, turns from OL to 1.6 at 208F and back when cooled.

I think I didn't connect the fan properly when I assembled, the pigtail is very short and it was loose.

[nakedinterstate81]

I re adjusted the valve backlash, it was off, checked the timing belts and burbed the cooling system.
The fan comes on now when the gauge is past the middle.
But there is this chattering again. Went around with a stethoscope and noticed it's definitely
coming from the water pump.
It's a high pitched metal chatter.

[Track T 2411]

Wow, that does not sound good... I would probably start by removing the lower radiator hose housing, which will allow you to at least inspect the water pump impeller and maybe see if there's a clearance issue. The impeller does run fairly close to the transmission cover.
IMhO, you're going to be looking at a water pump issue, either the pump itself, the impeller/ trans cover clearance, or some combination there of. As you didn't personally do the pump replacement, the issue begs a few questions...
Was the water pump new 'OEM' or aftermarket?
Was the water pump possibly rebuilt?
Was an aftermarket gasket 'kit' used?

[nakedinterstate81]

I think he used an aftermarket gasket kit, not sure about the pump.
Does Honda make gasket kit or do I piece it together?

Thanks Track.

[Track T 2411]

Honda doesn't provide a kit. The transmission cover gasket is the most important one as far as 'precision' goes, and of course, it's the most expensive. I will say that I have used the K&L brand kit with no issues in the past, but after reading about others' issues have stuck with OEM... If you do a search, you might find a post that lists all of the OEM part numbers...