Is Starter Removal Doable w/o Removing The Engine?

[Dr. Frankenstein]

I was out in the garage this afternoon trying to get my '78 GL1000 to fire, and it wants to, but I think the starter needs to be rebuilt since there's a lot of resistance in it, and it heated up pretty quickly. I did get it to fire (briefly, like a second), but it sure took its toll on the battery.

The Clymers I have says you have to remove the engine to get the starter out, but there's a lot of posts in here about guys just doing it w/ no problems, except maybe for that troublesome head bolt nearest the starter, but mine unscrews just fine.

What kind of a task am I looking at? Do I need to drop the engine? (Hopefully not...)

[CYBORG]

I seem to recall doing my 78 without removing the headers. But it has been a while

[gltriker]

Scroll down to Similar Topics

John, This Topic looks really informative!
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=55389

Need more opinions?
Scroll down to the bottom of the linked page, too

[Dr. Frankenstein]

A lot of good reading in there, Cliff...I'm just mostly paranoid about dropping that sprocket into the engine - what's the likelihood of that if I do it on the center stand vs on the kick stand?

FWIW I found a really good pictorial tutorial from Tim Wentsell on the GoldwingDocs website:
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=259

[Lucien Harpress]

I've found the "drop the sprocket" worry to be overrated. The way the engine cases are cast, it's not like there's a straight shot into the inside of it- the gear isn't going to swing down out of the way the second the starter gets pulled.

True, the only thing holding the gear in place is gravity in the loop of the chain, but BECAUSE that part of the engine is so tight, to actually get the gear out you'd really have to work at it.

I've done every starter change on the center stand. Usually have to pull the header, sometimes a header stud, NEVER the engine. The worst that might happen is that the sprocket gets slightly unaligned when you go to reinstall the starter, but it's never more than a minor inconvenience.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Hey Lucien; good to know. I was looking at it this afternoon and was a bit dismayed that it said 'pull the engine,' but knowing my way around a starter sprocket or two I thought I would ask the forum, and it's just as I thought, a lot easier than the manual lets on. How's the Dream going?

[gltriker]

A lot of good reading in there, Cliff...I'm just mostly paranoid about dropping that sprocket into the engine - what's the likelihood of that if I do it on the center stand vs on the kick stand?

FWIW I found a really good pictorial tutorial from Tim Wentsell on the GoldwingDocs website:
https://goldwingdocs.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=259

Looked very informative, then I spotted this:

SNIPPED-

" 2. VERY IMPORTANT – Remove the battery from your bike or at the very least disconnect the positive (RED) lead from the battery and TAPE it back so it can’t spring back to the battery post. No one wants a lead acid battery exploding in their face from a dead short! Safety comes first. "

Wow! Seriously needs to - at the very least - Correct that VERY IMPORTANT ERROR.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

So do tell - what's the cliffhanger here..? (No pun intended )
I always disconnect if not Remove the battery when I'm futzing around with electrical components, unless I need to turn it on to check something...

(Of course, not everybody is smart enough to do that; this is why they put warnings on those little dishwasher packets that say 'Do Not Eat'...or like on LAWS rockets that say "This End Towards Enemy'...AMHIK! )

[gltriker]

snip-
"or at the very least disconnect the positive (RED) lead from the battery and TAPE it back so it can’t spring back to the battery post."

I process that was written as acceptable to remove the positive (Red) lead from the battery, only, or first; no mention that the negative-ground-(Black) would be the correct lead to disconnect, first. Then it's the correct color (Black) to TAPE back, itself.

I've seen tooooo many folks do the battery leads disconnect procedure, in the wrong order. A sure recipe for a short-circuited wrench sparks display.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Curious; that EE friend of mine who was helping me track down that electronic ignition problem commented once on how I do it: I connect /disconnect the Negative battery post first before taking off the Positive - I've never had a problem, but he was astonished that was how I did it -

[Whiskerfish]

Yea I always do the neg first just in case the hot side comes into contact with a frame part while working it off. As for the sprocket I think it is close to impossible to drop it into the case. Never tried but I have changed a lot of starters and never had an issue.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Yes, I got the starter motor out with no problems; I just had to drop the left side exhaust a bit and it came right out. See my post "Oil - Not Sure If This is Bad or Not" for more...

[Sidecar Bob]

Re disconnecting the negative first, I've seen pics of hands that were pretty badly burned by someone trying to undo the positive first and the wrench touching something grounded. And if you happen t be wearing a ring and it touches first there is a possibility of losing the finger.

Depending on what you are doing disconnecting the battery can be a good idea but for removing the starter motor I've always felt safe enough knowing that the key is removed so the starter motor cable can't become live.