No start from button

[Steve81GL1100]

My OEM solenoid actually stuck in its "engaged" position. Fortunately not for long, and the starter seems none the worse for it.
As for water exposure, I still have the original rubber boots (one for each wire and the big one for the plug) in place so it's probably pretty well protected.
I don't expect the Amazon solenoid (WAY better than ebay, right?? LOL) to last forever.... I just wish the OEM part wasn't $106 which is what my dealer wants.
Even Randakk sells what appears to be the same aftermarket solenoid, although for a little more $$ but he includes a new positive cable. If he sells it, I trust it can't be garbage...
-Steve-

[pidjones]

My OEM solenoid actually stuck in its "engaged" position. Fortunately not for long, and the starter seems none the worse for it.
As for water exposure, I still have the original rubber boots (one for each wire and the big one for the plug) in place so it's probably pretty well protected.
I don't expect the Amazon solenoid (WAY better than ebay, right?? LOL) to last forever.... I just wish the OEM part wasn't $106 which is what my dealer wants.
Even Randakk sells what appears to be the same aftermarket solenoid, although for a little more $$ but he includes a new positive cable. If he sells it, I trust it can't be garbage...
-Steve-

That would be Z1 Enterprises. Randal sold thatvstore long ago. Looking at the top of the original relay, I don't see how any boot on a wire will keep water out.

[robin1731]

My OEM solenoid actually stuck in its "engaged" position. Fortunately not for long, and the starter seems none the worse for it.
As for water exposure, I still have the original rubber boots (one for each wire and the big one for the plug) in place so it's probably pretty well protected.
I don't expect the Amazon solenoid (WAY better than ebay, right?? LOL) to last forever.... I just wish the OEM part wasn't $106 which is what my dealer wants.
Even Randakk sells what appears to be the same aftermarket solenoid, although for a little more $$ but he includes a new positive cable. If he sells it, I trust it can't be garbage...
-Steve-

That would be Z1 Enterprises. Randal sold thatvstore long ago. Looking at the top of the original relay, I don't see how any boot on a wire will keep water out.

Actually Dime City Cycles is the parent company for Randakk, Z1, and MikeXS.

[Sidecar Bob]

There really is no polarity to the M and B connections - it's just how they mark them.

Not the solenoid used on the GL1100, GL500 & GL650 (& a lot of other models). These are the ones with the 4 pin connector and the main fuse built in; As you can see below the main fuse is connected to the B terminal so if you reverse the M and B terminals no current can flow from the battery to the electrical system.

Solenoid.jpg

[pidjones]

Hmm. Yes, if you use the ones with the built-in fuse that interferes with the frame on the GL1000. I use the ones without the fuse (I've even used the ones with bullet pigtails) and use an inline automotive fuse holder to replace the old "dog bone" fuse. I presently am using one that has the added-on fuse removed. The B terminals are just connected via the fuse to the battery input terminal externally.

[Sidecar Bob]

The original solenoid on the 1100 (like this thread is about) looks pretty much like the one in that pic except that it has a dogbone fuse under a door on the side where the holder for the blade fuse is on the one in that pic. And the internal connections match the drawing so which terminal is Battery and which is Motor does matter.

[Don R]

I've done the lawn mower solenoid and a Randakk's replacement. A cheapo from ebay failed on the first start but that's just my luck.

[Dr. Frankenstein]

Huh - do you have a pic of the lawn-solenoid setup? Do you think they are more robust than the stock ones? Does anyone have any pics of their non-traditional solenoids they've been using...?

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

I'm trying to gear up for a tech query on electrical issues this wonderful, cold Thanksgiving morning, and I find a solenoid question near the top of the list. Fun.

Dr. Frankenstein, here's a set up that came to me with the '79 GL1000 I've been working on for about a year now.

PXL_20211230_185015331.MP.jpg

PXL_20211230_190034935.MP.jpg

I've since removed the unit and am using one with the blade fuse on it. But it did seem to work in some capacity, such as I could tell at the time.

It all seemed to me to be a "use what you got laying around" response to a failed solenoid, a version of electrical bubble gum and duct tape. But what do I know, really?

[Shadowjack]

Here's a Ford Solenoid on a 75. Bought it like that, didn't need to continue using it.