Timing belts & engine bearing codes?

[dartman1962]

I am changing the timing belts & performing the timing tensioner mod today. I happened to look at the marks in the behind the covers.
I think they are to do with engine bearings, but not sure how to read it!

[Rednaxs60]

These are for crank bearings. Need the OEM service manual to decipher the code for the bearing colours. Honda uses a colour coding for the bearing thickness. Honda did a great design/build of these engines. Almost a blueprint/balanced engine.

[Old Fogey]

Those particular marks indicate the main bearing clearances, for which you have to cross-refernce to the bearing chart.

But...unless your really HAVE to split the cases and investigate the bearings, I strongly advise against it. The bearing shells, the main bearings of which are the same for the GL1000 and the GL1100, and the conrod shells, are to all intents extinct.

[dartman1962]

Those particular marks indicate the main bearing clearances, for which you have to cross-refernce to the bearing chart.

But...unless your really HAVE to split the cases and investigate the bearings, I strongly advise against it. The bearing shells, the main bearings of which are the same for the GL1000 and the GL1100, and the conrod shells, are to all intents extinct.

Fogey,
I still have to primary chain tensioner you sold me several years ago, which I have not yet installed.

So when I was in there changing my belts I saw these codes & wondered, should I look for some non existent parts!

It runs fine, I really want to get rid of the rattle from the chain at idle.

My oil pressure HOT at idle is 15psi & 55-60psi at 4-5000 rpm,

I have spoken to an engine shop in town that does re-babbit bearings that are not available. I going over to see if they can in case I need them done.

As you said, unless you HAVE to split the cases, stay OUT!

[Old Fogey]

If those are your pressure readings, leave your bearings alone; you have nothing to worry about.
You can fit the chain tensioner by removing just the left side of the crankcase, leaving the right head,pistons and crankshaft in place.

But before you get into that, make sure that your ignition timing is spot on and the same with the carb synchronising. I would not be at all surprised if you find that the thrashing noises go away.

[dartman1962]

If those are your pressure readings, leave your bearings alone; you have nothing to worry about.
You can fit the chain tensioner by removing just the left side of the crankcase, leaving the right head,pistons and crankshaft in place.

But before you get into that, make sure that your ignition timing is spot on and the same with the carb synchronising. I would not be at all surprised if you find that the thrashing noises go away.

I just rechecked the the timing yesterday after belt replacement. 1-3 were right on the firing mark and 2-4 were just before the red firing line, like a red firing line thickness may be a degree or 2. I was not going to change it for that slight difference.

I set the carbs 2 years ago with my friends Vacuummate balancer; It was a night & day difference over a regular balancer & yes, the chain is quieter.
I am going to be resetting the carbs next month before riding season, as I just installed my new Delkevic exhaust system & want to recheck again.
My gl1000 has 64,700 miles & purrs like a kitten otherwise.
Again as you said, the bearings will probably be fine, hopefully a new primary chain, your tensioner, new clutch, maybe new rings & a hone and that's it.