The Aspy Project

[Rednaxs60]

For an external alt install, 4" crank pulley, 2" alt pulley. Crank pulley from an early model Prelude power steering pump. Has the right diameter centre hole.

[dontwantapickle]

It looks like a nice bike.
Too nice to be hacking it together.

I'd consider fixing the charging system.
Caltric stators are pretty cheap.

[Track T 2411]

Red, I've read several of your posts in regards to this conversion and found them very helpful. I'm just a bit overwhelmed by the whole thing, lol!

It looks like a nice bike.
Too nice to be hacking it together.

I'd consider fixing the charging system.
Caltric stators are pretty cheap.

As I'm sure you know, replacing the stator is an engine out job. My problem is that once I start down that path, I'll want to go through the entire bike, lol!
Seriously, I've considered the options and, if done right, the alternator conversion is barely noticeable, and to me the benefits are worth the effort. I expect this to be my 'forever' touring bike, so dependability, ease of service, and maintenance are paramount.

[CYBORG]

It is one of the easiest modfications one can ever do with so much gain. I would suggest you also rplace the fan wih a pusher fan in front of the radiator

[Track T 2411]

It is one of the easiest modfications one can ever do with so much gain. I would suggest you also rplace the fan wih a pusher fan in front of the radiator

Thanks! That's a good idea. I think I'd read that in passing in one of the threads, but hadn't really considered it. I'd have to modify the stock fan brackets anyway...

[Track T 2411]

Just to add to the documentation of what's been done to Daisy, the front forks have been fully rebuilt, including bushings, and the OEM springs have been replaced by a set from RaceTech. I used 15w fork oil. Interestingly, the right fork bushings were quite well worn compared to the left, and the oil was nearly black. I suppose I should have checked the stanchions' service limit, but I don't have the proper tool...

[Track T 2411]

After spending lots of time reading multiple alternator conversion threads, cypherin about the 'best' way, and sourcing parts, I finally decided I would figure out the procedure for the electrical portion of the project. I freely admit that while I understand what the major electrical components are and what they do, I have no clue how they do it.
To make matters worse, an aftermarket Electrical Connections 'stator wiring harness' was installed at some point, which just confuses me more. I think I need some step-by-step instructions on which connectors to unplug, wires to jump (and where), etc.

[Track T 2411]

Well, I think I have the basics of the charging wiring figured out. Please correct me if I'm wrong!
The regulator/ rectifier has an eight wire connector with three yellow, two red, two green, and one black/light green wire. Yellows are AC hot into the r/r, reds are DC 12v hot out (into the main harness), supplying system power and charging the battery. The black/ light green wire is the 'sense' wire, hot in when the ignition is 'on.' Is this correct?
The add-on EC stator harness is designed to bypass the first main harness connector, which is often as problematic as the stator connector. (The 1200 Aspy has a 'regulator filter' (radio noise suppressor?) between the main harness and r/r, so there's two connectors leading to the r/r.) As such, the three yellows now go directly to the r/r, the grounds split, one to the battery terminal, the other to the frame, and the two red wires lead directly to the positive battery terminal with an in-line 40 amp fuse. Only the black/ light green wire remains in the main harness connector.

[Track T 2411]

OK, now for a few questions!

Does the regulator filter serve any useful function other than for radio (which I never use) operation? It's not shown on any diagrams for models without the factory stereo system, but I just want to be sure.

Is routing the charging wire directly to the battery prudent? I've read that this can cause undo stress on the battery and shorten it's life. I could just as easily make a new connection from the new alternator to the two red/ white wires at the main harness connection, yes?

By eliminating the r/r, I would have no need to worry about the existing two grounds at all, correct?

In my post above, I mistakenly identified the black/ light green wire as the 'sense' wire. I now understand it is the 'excitation' wire. I'm using a 'three wire' alternator, so I will need a 'sense' wire. Does the electrical system use a sense wire, and if so, how would I identify it?

Any opinions/ recommendations welcome!

[Track T 2411]

My brain hurts!

Here's where I'm at today...

20240721_151615.jpg (209.28 KiB) Viewed 463 times

Down to the basics! These are the remaining OEM wires from the regulator connector into the main harness. Black/ light green is the original 'sense' wire. This will now serve as the 'excitation' wire for the three wire alternator. Red/ white wires will connect to the alternator output as was their original function. I will run a new dedicated sense wire, but I'm not sure where best to connect it.

20240721_152209.jpg (281.33 KiB) Viewed 463 times

The remnants. Most of the excess wiring is from the aftermarket stator harness, which obviously serves no purpose now. I hope I'm on the right track!

[julimike54]

On mine the 'sense' wire (from/to regulator {R/R}) is black/light green wire. Looking at the pic you posted it almost looks like someone installed the Electrical Connection 'kit' that was to provide full voltage to the coils and R/R. It basically provided as close as possible to full voltage to coils and regulator 'sense' wire. These kits were really a result from poor/old connections that could have been cleaned and made to work properly. But since there are a lot of connections made to that wire, the kit was a short cut around the old connections.

Not sure I understand the two 'sense' wires. The 'sense' wire goes to several components that require 12 vdc power such as the 'engine start button', the 'fuse block', 'fuel pump relay' and R/R.
The 'excitation' wire to the alternator is what provides a reference voltage to the alternator?
The 'sense' wire does the same and provide 12 vdc as I stated.

[Track T 2411]

Julimike54, you're absolutely right on the EC harness. With the conversion, most everything concerning the charging system is redundant. I'll probably keep the coil power bypass portion just because it's working fine...

3-wire connections - 2.jpg (82.16 KiB) Viewed 414 times

This image is from one of rednaxs60's posts at goldwingdocs.com . I've read through so many threads and posts concerning this conversion that my head may just explode, lol! Anyhoo, it is my understanding that the sense wire and excitation wire should be separate on an external alternator. The 1200's sense wire is indeed black/ light green and is switched at the ignition, which makes it ideal to serve as the excitation wire for the conversion (IMhO).

In several posts it has been suggested that the sense wire would best be connected somewhere other than the battery to allow the alternator to better adjust output for intermittent/ additional electrical loads. That is how I'm reading it, anyway...

I certainly welcome any and all opinions and suggestions!

[Track T 2411]

I was going to post pics of my hack job on the fairing bracket and the new alternator, but they'll only post upside down... ugh!
Here's my shop companion... She's not really sleeping, she's putting and staring at her tennis ball that goes everywhere with her...

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[julimike54]

I know rednaxs60 has posted a lot of info on the charging systems and I thought he was using a battery fed 'sense' wire, but like you I've read so many things I could be wrong.

Best of luck!

[Track T 2411]

I know rednaxs60 has posted a lot of info on the charging systems and I thought he was using a battery fed 'sense' wire, but like you I've read so many things I could be wrong.

Best of luck!

I've actually been in contact with him since my last post. It seems we're both kinda right, lol! The final plan is still in flux, so I'll leave it at that...