The Aspy Project

[Track T 2411]

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I'm pretty much at a standstill at this point. Having summers off is nice, living on a summer income, not so much!
I've put off installing a new LED headlight, different passenger arm rests, and dual phone chargers, as well as working out a plan for the dog carrier to replace the top box. I suppose I could start on one of those projects...

[Track T 2411]

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I can't seem to leave well enough alone... Seeing as I had to remove the windshield trim to install the new LED headlight, I decided to go ahead and pull the windshield as well. I've wanted to cut it down a couple of inches since I bought the bike, so might as well do it while I'm there, right?
The LED headlight has a controller(?) as well as a heat sink, so some modification to the fairing behind the headlight assembly was in order. Ah, the smell of melting plastic! It's now installed and working as it should.
I also laid out the cut line for the windshield, and will probably do that tomorrow. I hope a two inch chop does the trick!

(I'm not sure why, but I've tried everything I can think of to post these pics right- side up... I apologize!)

[Track T 2411]

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The almost finished product. I used a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade at very slow speed, and lots of masking tape to prevent scratches. I'm not skilled enough to cut right on the line, so I always leave a bit of leeway, then creep up to the line with a sander.
Once I reinstall it, I'll be able to put the final rounded edges on and give it a polish to match the original. It's too difficult to hold it otherwise.

[ritalz]

Looks like it turned out pretty good. I used almost the same technique some time back. The fine toothed blade is the key.

[Track T 2411]

Yep, Al, I'm happy with it.
At least that's all back together!

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Finally got to order the crank pulley. I saw a variety of options for this while doing my research. I chose one from RDG TOOLS in the U.K. as it seems the best fit overall.

[Rednaxs60]

As promised, wiring diagram for alt project:

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Relay wiring:

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Alt connections:

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[Track T 2411]

Wonderful! Thank you very much, Ernest. This makes it very easy to understand. I do have two questions. First, in most threads I've read, a 40 or 50 amp circuit breaker is installed in the alternator output wire (although in those threads it's running directly to the battery). Is that needed with this setup? Second, what size fuse is needed for the excitation/ sense wire?
Thanks again!

[Rednaxs60]

I don't have a fuse in the alt output. Excitation/sense wire to the alt connections - 10 amp. Power wire for idiot light - 10 amp.

[Track T 2411]

I don't have a fuse in the alt output. Excitation/sense wire to the alt connections - 10 amp. Power wire for idiot light - 10 amp.

Thanks! Now I can start gathering the components... at my current pace, I might actually get to ride it once or twice before the snow flies, lol!

[Rednaxs60]

Did not use a fuse on the alt output as there is a 30 amp fuse on the starter solenoid.

The issue is actually about current - amps. The load on the electrical system varies so designers/manufacturers use voltage to manage the electrical system. As the load - current goes up, the voltage in the system goes down so the alt allows more power to go to the system. As the load decreases and the voltage increases, the alt reduces the power flow to the system.

The alt uses a reference voltage of ~14.2 VDC, the same as the OEM shunt RR.

An issue I had with my alt install is that if you have a battery that is starting to fail or just past its best before date, the battery will cause the alt to output a lot of voltage, the battery now requires a lot of current/power to fully charge. I recommend a new battery every 3 to 4 years regardless of how good it is. Doesn't take much for these small batteries to fail. Trying to "wring" every ounce of power out of a battery is not a good practice. I would also submit that doing this is more detrimental to the stator/rotor/RR than the OEM design. We are our own worst enemy in this regard.

Cheers

[Track T 2411]

That makes sense. I thought adding a circuit breaker was probably redundant. I plan on replacing the battery as the present one has suffered a few deep discharges. I disconnect it any time I know it's going to sit for any length of time...

[Track T 2411]

The new crank pulley arrived yesterday, and after some cypherin' I concluded that I would need somewhere between 8mm to 12mm additional distance from the rear of the pulley to the crank in order to clear the belt covers. I would also need a longer crank bolt.
One M12X65-1.25 bolt and three washers later...

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(Sorry for the sideways and upside down pics)
Looking pretty good... this is just the test fitting, I haven't notched the covers yet. At least I'm in the ball park.
I'm actually really surprised how easy this part of the project is going (knock on wood!). Next step is to start lining things up and fabricate the brackets...

[Track T 2411]

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Full mockup. The covers are notched and bolted in place. I could remove another washer as the less I have to bump out the radiator the better. That's the next step...

[CYBORG]

What size are the two pullies?

[Track T 2411]

What size are the two pullies?

Crank pulley is four inch, alternator is 2 or 2 1/2, I don't recall off hand.