Turn Signal Gremlins

[leonardhcross]

Good day naked friends. I am sooo close to completing this 76 project bike. The only remaining issue is with my turn signals. I have double-checked all of my connections and feel confidant that they are all proper. I have swapped in a good flasher from my other 76 and it made no difference. At this point, I have opened up the turn signal switch housing and am looking for some guidance. A short video is attached. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3dsumSxxUU

[Fred Camper]

Which bulbs are you using in the turn signals front and rear? LED's sometimes do that due to low loads on the flasher.

[leonardhcross]

I am using the standard, double filament bulbs.

[ritalz]

Also be sure the bike is running or the battery has a full charge. Sometimes these bikes are very finicky about when the signals have enough power to work. Could also try while a charger is connected.

[gltriker]

Ground path connections

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

I'm with gltriker.

I seem to recall having similar signal issues on a '79 build that used older round front signals. I think the problem did not manifest if the signals were not mounted. Do the signals work if they're not attached to the ears? I'm not sure what I did to resolve my issue. (I do feel your pain.)

[leonardhcross]

So far, no one has responded to my question about dielectric grease. Although it may not be related to my turn signal issues, I still want to lube these internal components. Maybe I'll just apply a liberal amount to all the contacts and moving parts?

[gltriker]

Hi Len

A telephone conversation is a great idea

[leonardhcross]

Hi Len

I did an internet search for 'bulb grease' and the results are it's dielectric grease. Wipe a thin film of the grease between switch contacts after brightening their surfaces.
'Compression wiping' pushes the dielectric grease aside as the switch contacts slide over each other

Is it possible you may have forced a bayonette type double filaments bulb to be installed ,aka clocked , less than 180° off ?

Improbable but not impossible

Corrosion in a bulb socket could be preventing a solid ground path connection around the brass bulb base.

New front and rear bulbs may be a Best Practice at this time in the process of elimination

Thanks Cliff. You mention "brightening contacts". With the switch housing opened up, there is very little room to do anything. I really want to avoid pulling out the cables from inside of the handlebars. Other than doing that, how does one get their fingers inside to do any "brightening"? It appears to be very limited access.

[Whiskerfish]

I just use spray contact cleaner.

[Fred Camper]

Sure looks like a voltage issue to me, mine stay on solid like that when my idle is too low.

[leonardhcross]

Sure looks like a voltage issue to me, mine stay on solid like that when my idle is too low.

Thanks Fred. The lights do not perform any better when riding or when on battery charger. Although the horn only operates when riding.

[Whiskerfish]

One of the easiest checks it to get a hunk of wire strip both ends and attach one end to the neg battery terminal. Walk around the bike while the signals are active and touch each signal housing. See if that changes anything

[leonardhcross]

One of the easiest checks it to get a hunk of wire strip both ends and attach one end to the neg battery terminal. Walk around the bike while the signals are active and touch each signal housing. See if that changes anything

Thanks Whiskerfish. What a simple idea. It'll be a couple of days before I can get to it.......Hernia repair in a couple of hours.
Hoisting my 76 up onto it's center stand probably contributed.

[Sagebrush]

Hernia repair in a couple of hours

Oh man! I feel your pain. It may be more than a couple of days. I had that done several years ago. When I awoke from the anesthesia I felt like I was gut shot. Started thrashing around uncontrollably. Morphine is your friend. Hopefully you won't/didn't need it.

All the best.