1979 GL1000 Timing Tension

[Benjiiboy]

That's about right. The actual amount of play will vary depending on the valve spring pressure and position of the crank. Turn the cams around halfway (timing marks facing inward) and see how the tension changes.

(I've got my 1000 motor currently tore apart, so I just checked.)

If you want to, loosen the right idler bolts when the cam timing marks are facing inward, then re-tighten. The valve spring pressure swaps sides, which makes tension a bit easier.

Again, the important thing is if you spin the motor over by hand a couple times and the timing marks keep lining up correctly every time on the way by, you're probably good.

I'll do that tomorrow! Iv taken on a 1988 magna 750c as well thought that would of been an easy task.... Found out she's a tough bike.

[Benjiiboy]

Iv seem to have gotten it, everything lines up, no noise when I turn the motor, nothing stops or hits. So hopefully I'll put a battery up to her soon and find out.

[Lucien Harpress]

[Benjiiboy]

So, I was doing it right the whole time and was caught up with the "extra" play with the top of the belt.

Just want to do everything right. Next is the carbs....

[leonardhcross]

The role of the tensioner springs has puzzled me. I began by assuming that, like other roller tensioners, these rollers and springs were designed to “keep” a certain tension on the timing belts. However, by “locking” the tensioners in place once the tension is established, they do not flex to maintain tension. Once locked, the roller’s position is fixed. So….the tensioner spring is not designed to “keep” tension but rather, they are used only to “set” the tension. Once the tension is set, the rollers are locked in place and the springs do nothing. I remain puzzled by the inclusion of a flat “spacer” in the design. What does that even add?

[Sidecar Bob]

I seem to recall someone mentioning years ago that they removed the springs after the rollers were locked in place but I can't remember why.