Busted coolant pump connections - dangerous?

[toomanybikes]

While fixing an oil leak from the coolant weep hole, I discovered that the existing pump had locked causing the connecting tongs(?) to break, as shown in the 1st pic below. The drive shaft for the pump is still intact (2nd pic) and I have a new pump.

Question - The sheared metal from the original pump is now in the sump or other part of the engine. What is the likelihood of that causing damage? Is it worth further disassembly to get those bits out? I assume they would fall into the sump and just sit in the sludge.

Thanks,

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[CYBORG]

I would at least change the oil and look for metal in the drain oil.

[redglbx]

If it were me, I’d run a strong magnet across the bottom of the sump while you have the front of the engine apart to change the water pump. My .02

[CYBORG]

Good Idea. while the sump is empty Could also run one into the oil drain

[toomanybikes]

If it were me, I’d run a strong magnet across the bottom of the sump while you have the front of the engine apart to change the water pump. My .02

God idea. I tried to put a magnet into the pump drive hole, but mine was too big.

[toomanybikes]

Good Idea. while the sump is empty Could also run one into the oil drain

The oil drain doesn't provide direct access to the sump.

Luckily, some significant chunks were still near the impeller driver and accessible with a magnet through the rubber seal.

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[CYBORG]

Good call.
glad you found the ones you did

[redglbx]

, you should probably check the oil filter, oil filter housing and the oil filter housing bolt as well.

[toomanybikes]

, you should probably check the oil filter, oil filter housing and the oil filter housing bolt as well.

All clear

[flyin900]

I would consider replacing that oil seal with the damage done on the old pump drive and you fishing around through there it would be cheap insurance for a seal replacement.

[toomanybikes]

I would consider replacing that oil seal with the damage done on the old pump drive and you fishing around through there it would be cheap insurance for a seal replacement.

Makes sense. I've got plenty of time while cleaning off the petrified gaskets.

Does anyone know the right size or p/n? I looked on Partzilla but couldn't find the right part. Image shows 10 25 7, does that sound correct? My gasket kit includes one seal, but it looks like the seal on the pump itself.

[Whiskerfish]

I would pull the strainer screen and see if you can access in there with your magnet

[flyin900]

I would consider replacing that oil seal with the damage done on the old pump drive and you fishing around through there it would be cheap insurance for a seal replacement.

Makes sense. I've got plenty of time while cleaning off the petrified gaskets.

Does anyone know the right size or p/n? I looked on Partzilla but couldn't find the right part. Image shows 10 25 7, does that sound correct? My gasket kit includes one seal, but it looks like the seal on the pump itself.

If that is printed on the seal then that is the size. It is a 10mm inside dia. 25mm outside dia. and 7mm thick.

It is shown on the oil pump fiche not the cover fiche and here is the link to a fiche part. Your local Honda dealer or any seal seller will be able to get it for you cheap.

Honda Part # 91207-580-015

Link: https://www.cmsnl.com/honda-gl1100i-gol ... 207580015/

[Don R]

Maybe get a magnetic sump drain plug also?

[rcmatt007]

having split a case, big chunks would most likely sit on the bottom.... there was at least a half a quart of oil that came out when I split the case.