1986 Aspencade Resurrection

[Fred Camper]

Great idea. Way less work.

[3KidsinAustin]

Turns out I was a bit overly optimistic. Sprayed it again today and saw some of the same small bubbles. Less, but not a perfect fix. Crap.

So I pulled everything off the back end - fortunately just the rear shocks and brake caliper - rest of the bits are not yet installed. Pulled the schrader valve to get all the air out and tried unsuccessfully to remove the tire. The process I used on the old dried up tires on the 85 were not successful because this rubber was not rock hard - it just bent instead of coming off the bead. Feeling close to failure, I rubbed some 220 grit sandpaper around the inner lip of the rim on each side. Not knowing what to expect, I aired it up and so far (about 20 minutes) no leaks. Going to test everything again before reinstalling on the bike.

[3KidsinAustin]

Today was planned to be the day to get the bike off the lift and do a quick cruise around the neighborhood. I'd spent the morning bolting body panels back on - except for the lower radiator piece. No idea which section of the garage I hid that piece in!!

Lowered the Quick Jacks and rolled the bike off the lift with the help of my father who acted as a balancing point while I unhooked the tie-downs and got the centerstand out of the way. Massive disappointment ensued when I shifted it into gear and it immediately died. After some more failed attempts, we pushed it back on the lift (this time with the wheel chock in place). I've done some more reading regarding the clutch hydraulics and hoping I just have some air in the master. Going to tackle the banjo bolt and rebleed the system tomorrow. No signs of leaking fluid from the slave cylinder, but if no luck on the extra bleeding than I'll give each a rebuild and hope for the best.

At least it is starting to look like a motorcycle again!

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[Fred Camper]

Bummer on the clutch, the one on my 1977 with a 1200 Hydraulic Clutch bleed very easy so might be an issue with the Master cylinder.

[3KidsinAustin]

Bled the banjo bolt today and still have the clutch issue. Started looking and saw fluid coming out the back of the master cylinder pin that connects to the clutch lever. Rebuild kit on order and I'm hoping that will solve the issue.

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[Fred Camper]

Think I may have one but it may have been for a 1984to 1986 as I was just looking for a master for my hydralic clutch conversion in my 1977, Ended up buying a matched set of Brake and Clutch levers so that OEM lever is just taking up space.

[3KidsinAustin]

Project got on hold while I waited for parts. The clutch master cylinder rebuild went without difficulty, although I would pay a King's Ransom for a decent pair of c-clip pliers that fit down into the MC bores. I have a good one with variety of tips but too wide to get there. Been a struggle of mine for years! Anyway, with the MC rebuilt and the system bled, I wasn't getting any dripping from the piston bore but the clutch still wasn't working 100%. I could grab about 3/4 of the lever until I felt any sort of tension build up in the hose and feel the clutch begin to disengage. This is after plenty of bleeding, including bench bleeding the MC and bleeding through the banjo bolt. A strange symptom that was happening is that after releasing the clutch lever, it would take several seconds (10-15? I never timed it) for the slight amount of pressure to return to the system. The MC piston was fully retracted into its bore, there was just a vacuum in the line.

Next step in the system is the hose, so I ordered that on May 1 from Raymond at Apex Brakes. Turns out he is shipping from Canada through a freight forwarder into USPS. Something screwy happened at the USPS receiving center in NY and the package was lost for almost two weeks. It finally arrived a few days ago and I've got my schedule cleared to work on the bike tomorrow. Along with the clutch line, I ordered a full set of clutch and brake hoses for the 84, so at least no delays there!

[robin1731]

Here you go. https://www.z1enterprises.com/internal- ... n-pro.html

[3KidsinAustin]

Here you go. https://www.z1enterprises.com/internal- ... n-pro.html

Those look perfect for the job! Will make sure I have a set in my toolbox before digging into the next rebuild project.

[3KidsinAustin]

Although I won't call it definitively until everything is reassembled and bled, I think I have uncovered the driver behind the weak clutch.

I had routed and installed the new clutch hose from Apex Brakes earlier today and after a complete bleed, including the banjo bolt at the MC, still had a weak clutch. The next - and final - suspect has to be the slave cylinder. I had ordered the slave cylinder rebuild kit already for the 84 (next project), so after some cooling off inside, I got down on the ground and dug out the slave cylinder. This is what I found...

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More than a little bit nasty. Everything got disassembled, took a quick blast of compressed air to dislodge the piston. The oil seal that sits on top of the piston was so corroded that it came out in pieces.

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Everything is sitting in the ultrasonic cleaner for a strong round of hot, buzzy soaks. I'll show some after pictures when it gets to that point.

Rebuild kit going in:

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It was gratifying to see the mess inside the slave cylinder, because if it looked spotless, I was going to be really concerned that I would be struggling with an internal clutch issue. Still might be, but I'm cautiously optimistic that the end is nigh. (Famous last words!) I wasn't expecting the slave cylinder because the area underneath the weep hole was completely devoid of wetness. However, based on the gunk that had collected there, it likely plugged the hole and kept it looking dry. That's my theory, at least.

[Fred Camper]

My money is on all being well now. Nice. Could you get that out with the engine in the bike? Seems like you did.

[3KidsinAustin]

My money is on all being well now. Nice. Could you get that out with the engine in the bike? Seems like you did.

Alas, clutch issues persist following the rebuild of the slave cylinder. Same symptoms throughout, so the last piece has to be the clutch plates themselves. Possibly stuck from sitting in old oil? I'm going to try and break them free on the center stand by starting the bike in a high gear with the wheel off the ground, then applying the rear brake. However, when I went to start it today, the bike is now not getting any spark. Worked fine yesterday, then blotto today. About ready to push this off a cliff I could find one nearby.

But yes, the slave cylinder can be removed with everything in the bike. It is tight, but accessible with a variety of tools. To ease installation, I loosely threaded the banjo bolt and hose its mount on the slave cylinder, then tightened it when the slave was fully mounted.

[NotSoLilCrippseys]

If it's not one thing...

Walk away for a day or three instead of searching for a proverbial cliff for your bike.

I've bought more bikes that "needed a clutch" when what they really needed was a master and slave rebuild. My money would be on the plates breaking free after a bit.

[3KidsinAustin]

If it's not one thing...

Walk away for a day or three instead of searching for a proverbial cliff for your bike.

I've bought more bikes that "needed a clutch" when what they really needed was a master and slave rebuild. My money would be on the plates breaking free after a bit.

Went out to the garage yesterday with a positive attitude to try and break the clutch parts free, but now not getting spark. Thought I had that fixed a few months ago, will dig into again today.

I haven't had a stuck clutch before, but my plan was to start the bike in 4th or 5th gear with the clutch lever wired shut, then apply brake pressure while the rear wheel is spinning. (Bike is on a small lift under the centerstand, rear wheel elevated)

Does that seem like a decent method to try?

[Fred Camper]

For me, I would knock it off the stand by accident and watch it ride away. Seems like you need to get the bike to an uphill and ride it hard with the clutch lever pulled back.