for those of you that have M.B.S. (multiple bike syndrome) and have the "silver wing" models.
as our sponsors also have supplies for those bikes and they are popular with the "wing" crowd.
Now that riding season is over, I am finally getting around to replacing the defective ignition pickup coils. I''m scheduled to do a lot of business-related travel over the next 6 - 8 weeks so I will be doing this work when I'm home on weekends.
As documented earlier in this thread, I already acquired one of the Rae-San electronic ignitions.
This week I pulled the engine. It took longer to disconnect everything (2 hours) than it did to actually pull the engine (30 minutes). Disassembling the exhaust was a real chore due to rust but I was able to get everything apart without damage. I'll have to order new exhaust gaskets when I refit the pipes and mufflers.
I bought the Harbor Freight 800-lb transmission jack to support the engine during removal/reinstallation. It works great. The top plate of the jack can be adjusted to tilt left-right and front-back so everything lines up perfectly.
The defective ignition pickup coils (below). They both measure open at this time. They were good when I started the project but only lasted about 30 miles before they failed. Age and heat I guess. There was a small amount of RTV around the rubber grommet where the wires exit the cover plate. Depending on the condition of the grommet I may have to source a reasonable replacement from one of the local electronic surplus joints in town.
I pulled the ignition pickup coils this afternoon. Had to use an impact driver - just one good whack on each screw did the trick. The screws looked like the last person who touched these used a Philips screwdriver on the JIS screws. Anyway, on the bench, the coils checked OK with one measuring ~559 ohms and the other measuring ~547 ohms. In the bike, they both measured open and early on when I first started working on the trike, they both measured ~530 ohms. Wiggling the wires external to the grommet did yield what appeared to be intermittent opens. Since the engine is out of the trike and opened up, I am going to proceed with installing the Rae-San ignition and be done with it.
The grommet doesn't look too bad and appears to be reusable but I am going to look for a suitable replacement.
In The Shed:
'81 gl1100I barn find aka "Josie, the farmer's daughter." (almost comatose build)
'77 gl1000, roller parts bike.
'82 gl1100I, 'Old Crusty' titled roller parts bike (free!)
'82 gl1100I, My first 'Wing, and an expensive lesson! New2U Bike? Read Me.
Track T 2411 wrote:Looks like the engine removal was quite a process. Honda doesn't like to make things easy, I guess!
Actually, it was easier than I expected. I didn't even have to drain the oil or the coolant. No frame members in the way either. If the exhaust pieces hadn't been rusted together, it would have been much simpler.
motormike wrote:FYI: on ebay.. there's a nice magazine page that has a ad selling Trident police units. Various models.. even with a canopy !
And you don't give us a link????!!!
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1976 Goldwing Super Sport
1985 Honda Elite
1976 KZ900 Dragbike
1992 ZX7 Dragbike (KZ900 style motor w/NOS)
and a rotation of various purchases
Randakk approved Carb Rebuilder
Last week I reinstalled the engine and spent several evenings cleaning up the header pipes, mufflers and associated hardware. When I disassembled the exhaust system, one side came apart easily, The other side's pipe connections were horrendously corroded. Heating the prechamber flanges with a torch freed up the pipes but a couple of the flanges were in poor condition. I took the prechamber to a local muffler shop to have the inlet and outlet flanges replaced with new sections of pipe. About 5 minutes with a grinder afterwards and I was good to go. I had to expand the pipes on the rear of the prechamber to provide clearance for the exhaust gaskets. Harbor Freight had an exhaust pipe expansion tool for about $15 that did the trick.
New Inlet and Outlet Pipes on the Prechamber
Harbor Freight Exhaust Pipe Expansion Tool
Dry Fitted Exhaust System
Next step was to fire up the engine for the first time with the Rae-San electronic ignition. No go. I knew the Rae-San module worked OK when I installed it and set the timing so on a hunch that I had the coils reversed (left-right), I swapped the connections and it fired up on the first crank. A video of the engine running is below. It has open pipes... the mufflers are not on yet. Now to finish putting the trike back together.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike
Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
Now that I have had an opportunity to put some serious miles on this bike, I am tending to some of the niggly little details. The bike reliably fires on first try and runs nicely. It seems to be getting around 35-40 MPG so far. I'll see how things go when I get it out on the open road. This is the only CX500 I have ever ridden so it has taken getting used to the engine's powerband. Power comes on at higher RPMS than with the 'Wing. It redlines at about 9700 RPM.
- First off, the speedometer needle was catching on some sort of insect web or cocoon under the glass instrument face. See the photo below. The web/cocoon is at the 25-30 MPH markers. A slit in the web/cocoon where the speedometer needle catches is visible at the 25-26 MPH point. I followed Roady's procedure to open the speedometer, cleaned out the web/cocoon, closed it up and life is good. I ordered some NOS mounting rubbers and fresh instrument lamps on Ebay and when those arrive I'll reinstall the instruments on the bike.
Speedometer Spider Web.jpg
- I had some annoying headshake when riding over rough pavement. The steering head bearings are properly torqued. The conversion to a hardtail 3-wheeler really loused up the handling on all but smooth pavement. The immediate solution was to install a VW steering damper between the right-side crash bar and the right fork tube (photos soon). All is well now in that department. Long term I would like to replace the forks with a leading link front end similar to what I did on my sidecar outfit. So far I have been unable to get any responses from Hedingham Sidecars in the UK, the outfit that fabricated the LL setup for my sidecar.
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Jdeshotel1 wrote:I have a 1982 honda cx500c trident police trike redoing does anyone know what the rear master cylinder is from
The rear end is from a Jeep. All the brake parts are available from Kaiser Willy and other on-line Jeep part suppliers. The rear drums and shoes are 11" diameter..
on ebay.. there's a nice magazine page that has a ad selling Trident police units. Various models.. even with a canopy ! 
