Pauls GL 1000 Project

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Whiskerfish
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#136

Post by Whiskerfish »

paultjack wrote: Oh, one side note about the engine install... I used my crummy floor jack which worked perfectly! After getting the engine installed I decided I was very happy I did not have a motorcycle jack (one with the two flat arms to support the engine. ) Having my floor jack allowed the engine to be easily tilted and twisted every which way.
I have used a car juck before and it does definetly have it's advantages. Looks like you are making great progress!!

ps.. don't forget to put oil in it before you try to fire it up :shock:
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#137

Post by paultjack »

Grrrr, had to go to a birthday party instead of working on the bike! I think I've got a real problem if friends are getting in the way of my progress! :lol:

I managed to pick up the fuel line, air cut-off bolts and the shopstore of o-rings from Harbor Freight. Have to still get the rest of the hoses though.

Any suggestion for the radiator hoses? I thought I could just get a car one that was long and had a bend at one end. Then I'd just cut it to match both hoses.

Petcock, fuel line and filter get put on tomorrow. Hopefully I'll have the radiator hose too. Oh, and I'll put some oil in! Thanks Whiskerfish for the reminder! I get those hoses and I should be good for starting tomorrow!

As I said earlier - I'll be away starting Friday so I have to really get moving or else 2 weeks will laps on me before I get anymore progress! Ranndakk's Rally in September is coming very quickly now! I need to get this bike running before I sign up!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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Neil
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#138

Post by Neil »

Good progress Paul, Rad hoses .... NAPA #7733, once cut does both upper and lower. When I got mine I paid $9.00 for the hose.
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#139

Post by paultjack »

Thanks Neil! I knew there was some hose around that would serve that purpose! This is starting to become a Wing Come True! ;)
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#140

Post by paultjack »

OK, hose had to be ordered. Should be in tomorrow. In the mean time I picked up a new set of spark plugs and a new turn-signal flasher. I spent the evening working on the turn signals. Since I originally had the Fairing on there I had to find replacement turn signals. I found some on fleabay for another Honda bike that looked exactly like the ones I was supposed to have. There's only two wires so there's no position light. I suppose that's not too much of an issue. I'll look into replacing the bulb sockets so I can have position lights up front.

New turn signal flasher works pretty good. It blinks a little fast for my liking but it's better than the old one which blinks hardly at all. They blink really fast if you don't have the rear signals on! Anyway, they're acceptable.

Turn signal buzzer is buzzing perfectly!

Tested the fuel gauge sending and fuel gauge. I "think" they're working correctly. At least it showed FULL on the gauge and empty and some values in between. I'll have to wait for a tank of gas to fully test it out.

Tested the Volt meter using my battery charger. Looks pretty good.

Gauge and console lights are not on. Also the 5 Amp fuse in the fuse block is missing. I hit it with the volt meter and I don't think anythings getting to the block on that circuit. I'll have to dig a bit deeper. On the original set of console gauges there was a jumper which I think ran the lights. I'll have to check the wiring there pretty good to see if this is where the issue is.

Headlight works on both Hi and Lo beams.

New Spark Plugs use a different wrench size than my old ones. I'll pick up a new wrench tomorrow, too.

BTW, NAPA is now charging about $18 for the Radiator hose in the store and it's $16.29 online! Checking NAPA online I found that the NBH 7733 hose fits a 1988 Ford Festiva. That was useful when I went to the store so I could tell the guy there what car I was buying a hose for. Telling him I need a radiator hose for a Gold Wing allowed him to give me some pretty funny looks!

Here's the link - NAPA Online 1988 Ford Festiva Hoses
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#141

Post by paultjack »

OK, radiator and hoses are in, spark plugs gapped and installed, Bee mud removed again from the tank and from the inlet on the carb. Petcock put on and fuel lines added to fend off the bees! Valve cover screw grommets replaced, timing covers put on. And then I ran out of time.

I found out that I had forgotten to attach the neutral switch wire! Man! That sucks!!! That's going to be a real pain to get put on now! What a dump place to put a connector! Anyone have some suggestions on how to get it on without dropping the engine?

At this point I need to go through the electrical system one more time, verify the ignition to the coils, add some fluids and fire this baby up! I was hoping to take off work a tad early today because after work I'm heading to the beach. But, I've an afternoon meeting and that's going to really mess my time period up again! At this point it looks like it won't be until next Friday or Sunday before I get to work on it.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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Whiskerfish
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#142

Post by Whiskerfish »

Dude

You are just gonna have to make some sacrafices. Quit work :shock: Kick out the old Lady and her kids :shock: :shock: Move into the garage :shock: :shock: :shock: and become a proper biker :twisted: :twisted:

That is the only way these things get done :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

To be so close and have so many distractions. Dang I feel for ya.
"Agreement is not a requirement for Respect" CDR Michael Smith USN (Ret) 2017
"The book is wrong, this whole Conclusion is Fallacious" River Tam
"Yea I do dance awkwardly, and I am having more fun than you" Taylor Swift
2008 GL1800 IIIA "TH3DOG"
1984 GL1200 Standard
1975/6/7/8/9 Arthur Fulmer Dressed Road bike
1975 Naked Noisy and Nasty in town bike

Psst. oh and by the way CHANGE YOUR BELTS!!!!
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#143

Post by paultjack »

HURRAY! I now have a running motorcycle!

I kicked off work about 4 hours early and went to work on the bike. I re-wired the voltage regulator because I didn't realize that I had it going through the wrong part of the frame!

I finished with the water pump gaskets. I added the springs to the water hoses - forgot those the first time. Heck, I don't remember all I just kicked butt trying to get finished up!

Now, I don't have everything attached... Choke and throttle are off at the moment. Clutch cable is off - it fell off before I could attach the clutch lever. My NEW Tachometer cable fell apart! I bypassed the clutch switch to help with the starting.

I added the oil and water. After I get things properly put back together I'll add real coolant. So, I hooked up a soda bottle with some gas and a long fuel line. And I hooked it to the battery on my truck.

Crank, crank, crank... I hit it with some ether and it starts to fire. crank, crank, crank, some more ether, blub, blub... Seems I'm not getting any fuel to the carbs. I check all the fuel bowls and none of them have any fuel. DAMN BEES!!! I thought I had gotten everything out of the fuel inlet before I added my fuel lines. So, I get some wire and go digging and fishing around in the inlet. FINALLY! Out pops a larva or two and some mud and other junk... Hook everything back up and pump some fuel into the carb and damn if it doesn't start! And it ran by itself and idled and was just pretty darn happy!

OK, that all sounds pretty good, but I think I still have another issue. As I don't have the headers on yet I could put my hand under the exhaust to see if all the cylinders were firing. Seems 2 and 4 are not - at least I don't think so. I'll have to check this out when I get back on Monday.

Anyway, DUDES! I have a running bike! Now for the small stuff!!! :-D
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#144

Post by Cookie »

Amazing!
Enjoy life,
Cookie


A guy with two sidecars can't be all bad.
Owner of 4.4 76s and one lone 75 Wings (does a spare engine make .2?)
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#145

Post by Roady »

Way to go, Paul!

Those first blub, blubs are the best.

Now to iron out the details.
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#146

Post by paultjack »

Without Mufflers - just headers:
<object> <param></param> <param></param> <param></param> <param></param><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=7a2b8fa251&photo_id=3783255632" height="300" width="400"></embed></object>



With Old Mufflers
<object> <param></param> <param></param> <param></param> <param></param><embed type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://www.flickr.com/apps/video/stewart.swf?v=71377" bgcolor="#000000" allowfullscreen="true" flashvars="intl_lang=en-us&photo_secret=4d9e365571&photo_id=3782445393" height="300" width="400"></embed></object>


OK, to be honest in the videos it sounds better with the mufflers off! I think that's only because of the angle of the camera. I didn't have the exhaust tightened up yet and it was leaking pretty badly. Plus I was at a lower angle. Anyway, that's not the point... The point is that it was running! :twisted:
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#147

Post by Neil »

Congratulations Paul ... hey you aren't too far from the swap meet in August in Spring Grove PA.
Address is:
5252 Hillclimb Rd
Spring Grove, PA 17362

Dates are 14-15-16 of August. If you can make it let me know what day you can be there and maybe we can meet up?
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#148

Post by paultjack »

Hey Neil! I saw a post from you earlier today about the swap meet and I booked marked it as a reminder! I'll be checking my schedule tomorrow and I'll have a good idea of which days I'll be able to attend. I'll keep you updated!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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paultjack
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#149

Post by paultjack »

My wife came to bed and promptly began snoring. That put a real damper on me getting some sleep! Anyway... to pass some time I thought I'd post an update.

Latest bit of fixes prior to scooting off to Texas for a business meeting:

My gas tank drain is leaking a little bit. I'll wait until I burn more fuel out in order to lower the lever so I can take the plug out. Then I'll hit it with a little sealer and fix that sucker.

New battery is in and working great. Thanks Whiskerfish for the help on the location of the negative cable. Cable goes from the battery, around below the rectifier and behind the frame to the top engine mount. I attached it between the top triangle bracket and the engine. The long bolt that holds the top of the engine to the triangle brackets goes through the connector on the cable. And a Shout-out to TomE who suggested using a star washer between the cable connector and the engine to ensure a good ground.

Found some more bolts! I have all 8 header bolts located and installed temporarily. I still need to paint the headers so they're coming back off here soon.

Found the lower triple-tree bolts that clamp down the fork tubes!

I think at this point I'm not missing anything important.

I think the new tach cable I bought is a little too long. That's not much of a problem because it's broken anyway! :evil: The metal part that connects to the fuel pump and spins the cable came off. It's only crimped on and that didn't last long. I think that's because of the extra cable length it caused an extra bend where the cable attaches to the tach. That in turn caused stress on the cable and caused the end to pop off. Well, that's the theory. I'll throw the cable in the tack and turn it with my drill to ensure the tach isn't siezed up! That's my other theory.

Finally got the fan switch connector on. That rubber boot is a real pain! To aid in its installation I put a little oil on the inside of the rubber boot. That allowed it to finally slip over the switch. But, the bad news is that I think the switch is always on. I'll confirm that tomorrow morning once the engine cools down.

As for the neutral switch wire - I managed to get that on too. I began by taking a jeweler's screw driver and bending just the end. After that snapped I threw it out and started again. This time I heated the end until cherry red and then bent it! Now I have a very nice right-angled phillips screw driver for tiny screws! Note that you really have to keep the bend close to the end or else you won't have enough room to use it thanks to the engine bracket on the frame!

Side note - I don't think my neutral switch is working. I'll test the bulb when I return. But at this point it's not turning on. Anyone who is working on a bike should test that sucker prior to putting the engine back in! :evil:

I put the clutch cable back on. But the clutch lever will have to wait until I return on Friday.

Headlight bucket is going on Friday. That'll finish up the front end of the bike.

DOH! I just remembered I need to tighten the bolt at the top of the triple tree! Writing it here as a reminder! I think that's the last of the things to tighten up!

Heat Shield needs to be put on. I intended to drop the radiator out one more time for some clean-up and such. Shield will go on at that time. Sure would have been nice to have remembered it the first time! I was thinking of cutting it in 1/2 so I could install each half separately! Sure would make installation a lot simpler! Just split it down the middle. Then, put a bolt on each side and a metal bar across the cut to join the two halves. Add one at the top and one at the bottom of the shield and that's all it should need! But, since I'm dropping the radiator anyway.... I'll just slip it back in.

Still have to finish up the brakes. I'm "Procrastinating!" There's just something about brakes that really whigs me out. I need to just knuckle down and get them done! They're the last BIG piece of this whole project! Once I get the brakes done I can actually take this thing out on the road for a test spin!

Points look as though they need replaced.

Broke one of the tabs off the plastic nut that holds on the rear brake light switch. - Oh yeah, rear brake light is working too...

Final note... I pulled the radiator cap and then rev'ed the engine to see if the water pump was circulating the water. I believe it is. However, my temp gauge went all the way to the right. - pegged the meter on Hot. I'm going to pull the thermostat and re-confirm this is working correctly.

Well, off to find a sleeping pill so I can get some sleep too! It's now 2:25am!
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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#150

Post by paultjack »

Back from Texas! That was an exhausting trip with just a few hours of sleep here and there. That made the meetings very difficult to concentrate on!

Anyway, Friday I worked on the fan switch. It's "Sticky". I hadn't realized before that the temp sensor for the fan switch can be unscrewed. There's a pin in there that pushes on the switch to open and close it. It's this pin that's sticking. I tried cleaning and various other methods to make it work more reliably. No success. But not much of a big deal either as I had another. I tested my other switch which seemed to work fine. So I put that in. I tested the thermostat which also seemed to be working fine. While I had this all apart I managed to get the heat shield in too.

So, I get it all back together and now it seems the new fan switch is not working. :evil: Back to square one! It's a real pain to get that temp switch out! I hope I didn't brake it by testing it. Perhaps I overheated the sucker.

Also, I had a real hard time getting the drain plug on the gas tank to seal. It kept dripping and that was ruining the new paint job while I was away in Texas. I drained the tank, threw on some teflon tape and screwed it back together. Still leaked! I tried the best I could to tighten that bolt but all I had that size was a crescent wrench. That was managing to round off the corners. So, I broke down and bought a 19mm wrench and put the hurt'n on that stupid bolt. I think I got it tight now! But the end result is that I have some touchup to do on the drive shaft housing and the bottom of the tank. - Well, unsless I like the "Wrinkled Paint" look in that location!

Right side valve cover wouldn't stop dripping oil! There's only so much I'm willing to tighten those valve cover bolts! Finally I pulled the cover and threw some gasket sealent on the inside of the valve cover and then put the rubber gasket back in place. Crank that sucker down and .... nope, still dripping. Well, that's what I thought. When in fact the real issue was that when I had problems with the tach cable I had one of the bolts for the fuel pump out and this is where the leak was actually coming from! A small leak there which ran down to the bottom of the valve cover and then finally dripped. Ensuring the fuel pump bolt was in place fixed that problem.

Bike starts nicely. However I've yet to find the choke cable! It's got to be around here somewhere!!! Anyway, this poses another question... I noticed when I was rebuilding the carbs that there appeared to be a stud broken off on the rear of the carb. I have a sneaky suspecion that this stud works in combination with the choke. I can manually activate the choke which obviously chokes the air flow. However, there's no additional throttle being applied when I use the choke. So, I'm assuming there's some linkage that is supposed to apply a little throttle when the choke is used. So, am I correct in this? Seems I'll just have to sit there a couple of minutes with my hand on the throttle to choke throttle the engine while it warms up. I'll probably get a throttle lock to aid in this process.
Do you know what it's like to fall in the mud and get kicked, in the head, by an iron boot? Of course you don't--no one does--that never happens. - Capt. Rex Kramer

'78 Honda GL1000 GoldWing
'86 Honda CMX450C Rebel
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