Rebuild the Timing Belt Tensioner - $20

[sandiegobrass]

"(3) Grind or machine stepped"
I think you left something out there.

I have downloaded this for future use. I think I will do mine the next time I replace the belts, just in case.

BTW: What's the current recommendation for timing belt replacement interval? My FSM just says to inspect and replace if you see wear and the Owner's manual doesn't mention them.

I guess I just assumed you could read my mind... "Grind or machine stepped."="Grind or machine a cylindrical step on the underside of the head to 14mm diameter with about 4mm (or less) depth leaving some of the original material."

As for frequency of belt replacement??... I am sure you can find lots opinions with a search... The only "official" statement by Mother HOnda was for the GL1500 and they said to "inspect" the belts at 100,000 miles. Having said that, there are lots of automobile manufacturer recommendations, for example, Toyota (e.g., that uses the same belt for the SR5 as the GL1200, i.e., the T070) recommends 60,000 miles... As a happy medium, I generally tell people 8 years or 80,000 miles.. but in my opinion that is probably still conservative... I am convinced that more people damage their engines by improperly installing belts than by having them break (or wear out)...Jim

[sunnbobb]

No kidding, that is some good work. THANKYOU!

[Sidecar Bob]

I had pretty much figured out what you meant from the drawing below, but you did say that you would be revising as needed for a while and some might not figure it out.

Since I have access to a lathe at work, that's probably the method I will use.

[donspicer2]

thanks so much for all the research, experimenting, astute photos and narrative. this is great stuff.

[sandiegobrass]

...Since I have access to a lathe at work, that's probably the method I will use.

That is one I like too.. keithg64 did his using this method as well, I think..

[octane]

WOW !...now that's what I call brilliant research .

Thank you for posting !

[sandiegobrass]

WOW !...now that's what I call brilliant research .

Thank you for posting !

Thank you, Octane.... someone was looking for it a few days ago and it was at the bottom of the stack, so I thought I'd bring it a little closer to the top..

and I'd like to hear about those that use it..

[roncar]

... someone was looking for it a few days ago and it was at the bottom of the stack, so I thought I'd bring it a little closer to the top.. ..

NOTE: readily accessible on ShopTalk under timing belts.

[TechNomad]

Excellent PDF! It is well written with good illustrations! I grabbed a copy so I can have it handy for when I service the timing belts of my 1100. Keep up the good work and thanks---NICE JOB!

[Briang]

Here is the link to my topic Adventures in Tensioner Rebuild Land.

I successfully did this but I have a better idea.

Since I had to make bushings to reduce the size of the hole in the backing plate so the 10mm wheel stud could be used, I reasoned that if one were to first cut off the shaft which carries the tensioner roller this leaves, in place, the material which can become the required bushing, already pressed into the backing plate. There is enough of a gap between the plate and the roller to fit a hacksaw blade down it.

Then one can drill the appropriate sized 10mm hole in the backing plate and press in the wheel stud.

I would have done this before posting this but my bench vise broke a couple of months ago (I bought it at a garage sale a couple of years ago and didn't notice that it had been previously welded and the weld broke on me) and so I am just theorizing at the moment but I think that this method can be done by the average guy with normal home style facilities. Please, somebody try this and report back. This could truly get the cost down to the predicted $20.

[sandiegobrass]

Cutting the piece off might work.. good idea to try.. After all the trials and tribulations of those that have contributed by their experiences, I think a 10mm high quality bolt with about half of the head cut to 14mm diameter to form a shoulder that presses into the plate is the best method, but they all will work.. don't chose a method that requires drilling out the bearing hole unless you can deal with extremely hard metals...

Also, any links that have existed have been lost by my ISP but I have the document if you can't find it (here or elsewhere).. SDB/Jim

[Littlewing]

This is a great string. Thanks to all who have done the footwork.

I just rebuilt my tensioners using the info I gathered here. I changed a couple of things so I could use the T42015 rollers and grade 8 hardware while keeping my heatshields and the spacers behind the tensioner mounting plate. This gave me a strong mount up and let me keep my tensioners nicely centered on the belt.

I drilled the heat shileds so the bolt heads and flat washers would set in that hole and give me full adjustment of the tensioners. I also had to grind the long spacers some so they would clear the bolt heads and washers. I didn't like the carrige bolt idea much and was able to find some 3/8" lock washers at the hardware store that were smaller in diameter and thicker than standard lock washers. They exactly fit inside the holes in the mounting plates filling the gap between the the whole and the 3/8" bolts.

Done for $30 a tensioner. Gotta love it!

[Littlewing]

A few more pics related to my post thats directly above this one.

[sandiegobrass]

Very nice!! and nice addition to the thread with the washers.. anything that will center the bolt will do, I think you could make a centering washer from some wire, too. Glad to see your method of retaining the heat shields... I didn't do any fitting for the GL1000 when I put that all together..

[WShie]

I just finished doing this on my bike using the Hyundai tensioner bearings. A great write up and a lot of research, thanks for the idea. A few observations on my part are: I used a 10MM flathead alloy bolt for the stud, as the flathead centers the stud in the hole of the tensioner bracket, no spacer is needed. I then tacked it in 3 places just to hold it in place but was not really needed. Also if the back of the tensioner bracket is not flat you will have to do some spacing out from the engine block to make it work, at least on my 79 you did. On my 79 there are 2 brackets that attach to the block in 3 places behind the tensioners, since the back of my tensioner brackets were not flat anymore {protruding bolt head}I had to cut off one leg of this bracket and use a washer on the other side of the tensioner bracket to make it work. Other than that I am pleased with how it turned out, bike is nice and quiet and the bearings appear to be of high quality.