Ernie's 77 resto project

[Track T 2411]

One bad thing about buying the engine gasket kit is figurung out what goes where! Can be a PITA. If you do, I'd go with the OEM if available. Many here have had issues with some aftermarket gaskets, especially the head gaskets. Just MHO!

Good wrenchin,
Todd

[polkadot]

A great day of wrenching yesterday. I have decided to give up trying to get her started. I'm just tearing her down so that I can see what she needs. A big parts order is about to be placed! So far I know for sure that the brakes all need to be rebuilt, new tires, new cables, new plugs, wires and just about every rubber part on the bike. Here is what she looks like right now. Where do you guys get your parts. I would rather get them from one source so long as they are in the ball park on price. I'm also trying to figure out what to on several parts on the bike. The rear shocks are air. Are these common or a good idea? What do you suggest? I was also looking at a corbin seat. They make one to fit the bike that is kind of a modified one seater. Looks like it has flames stitiched into it. Definatly not stock, but I thought it looked cool. I wondered if anyone had one and whether they were comfortable. I was also wondering about the brake discs. Should I have them turned? I also thought about drilling a hole pattern for better stopping. The shop manual seems to suggest it. Any thoughts? I was also wondering about the radiator. My bike has not been ridden for 6 years. I do not know if there are problems or not. I was thinking of taking it and having it pressure tested. Any thoughts? Again, thanks for all of your help. I was feeling a little overwhelmed until yesterday. As I took it apart piece by piece, my confidence bagan to grow. I was thinking about buying a Shadow to ride for a few months while the project wore on, but now I think I'll just wait for the Wing to be ready. I've waited 30 years so I guess a few more months won't hurt. Ernie

[Sagebrush]

It cost me about $60 to have the radiator professionally cleaned and repainted at a radiator shop. This particular shop also cleaned and sealed the gas tank which was the real reason I went there. Figured since I was doing the tank may as well get the radiator done too. If you have any rust in your gas tank make sure you get that taken care of.

As far as the brake discs go they cant be turned they have to be ground. Stainless steel. Most folks don't touch them unless they are very heavily grooved. Just make sure to measure the thickness and verify they are still in spec.

Air shocks seem to be a good idea since Honda went with them on the 1100. As long as they hold air and you are happy with them I wouldn't change them. But if you are trying to restore the bike to stock then.......

The Corbin Gunfighter seat is very popular. If you call Corbin you can specify color of the piping, the flames and whether or not you want studs. They don't (at least they didn't used to) charge extra for those options. Here's a picture of one on my yellow 1100 before I changed to the touring saddle.

[polkadot]

Dean, That is one BEAUTIFUL bike! I guess that seat pretty much eliminates my wife on the back. Probably not the statement I want to make. I suppose I'll probably go with more of a stock seat. I had another good day tearing down the bike. (My wife thinks that I am absolutly certifiable!) My goal this morning was to remove the gas tank. Here is what she looks like now. As you can see, the tank remains. Who was the Japanese engineer that figured out the shape of that tank?! He was obviously having a bad day at the time! Exactly what is the trick? One thing that I found today was odd. Here are pictures of the bike serial number and the engine serial number. What gives? An engine built shortly after the bike was installed? Can anyone explain this? If the engine were changed it would have to have been prior to 1982. They are supposed to match, right? Anyway, I'll keep plugging along and keep posting. Ernie

[Whiskerfish]

The Gas tank comes out the back not the top. Remove the rear tire, fender, inner fender and some other stuff and it comes out the back.

Engine numbers do not match frame numers. Yours is one of the closest I have seen in a while. As each engine was built it was tested and as they failed testing the next one was place in the assembly line for installation. So your's only being off by 30 some is good.

[Sagebrush]

If you are looking for passenger comfort go with the Corbin touring seat. I had this one made to my specs. Don't get the backrests from Corbin, theirs are over priced and not too comfortable as they have a curve in them that seldom matches anyone's back.

[polkadot]

Two more days of wrenching. Here is what the bike looked like on Monday and then again tonight after I was too tired to do more. By this weekend I should have the motor out. Then I can start cleaning, repairing and replacing all the parts. Most things look very sound. The frame is good and solid, but some rust will require a paint job. I have the radiator being checked, the gas tank is being sealed, the carbs are on there way to Pistol Pete and the tires are on order. While I have the motor out, I plan on cleaning, replacing seals, replacing the water pump and painting. Are there any things that I should do to the engine while I have it out. Advice here from the experts would be greatly appreciated. I also wanted to thank whomever came up with the "Mr Wizard" de-rusting method. I am just amazed how well it works! It has been a huge time saver!

[Cookie]

It's funny Ernie. A bunch of us have had bikes that look exactly like that!
I have one slowly coming back together out in the shop.

[polkadot]

Its been a while since I posted, so here goes. I can tell I have been spending a lot of time on this project because my yard has never looked worse! (oh well). The engine has been removed from the frame. I have been cleaning and wire brushing parts. I bought some automotive paint at napa but was not happy with the results. It was supposed to be gloss black but it was more like semi gloss. I ordered some engine gloss black from Hirsch and am very happy. Smaller parts are now being painted so they will be ready for assembly. I also cleaned, degreased and power washed the frame and wheels. I'm getting dunlops installed this week. I'll start working on the frame this week. I decided just to paint the frame myself. Powder coating would be nice but my goal is to keep spending REASONABLE! I got the gas tank back this week from being coated. Its alright, but I could have/should have just done it myself. I have an everyday delivery of parts these days. I got a bunch from crescent yesterday. I bought the front m/c rebuild kit and that went very well. The crome and aluminun parts that are off are being polished. Hooked a buffing wheel to and old motor I had and it works great. It is a very messy part of the project, so I'll be glad when its done. It occoured to me tonight that because of the starter not engaging I could not get it started. I have not even gotten to that problem yet! There definetly is an "order" to these projects! I'll keep you posted. Ernie

[polkadot]

Ok guys, here is where I'm at. I have learned a lot so far. First off I know that when I reorganize my photos in photobucket, I lose them where I have posted them. Sorry about that. Here is my first picture again. As you know the last three plus weeks have been disassembly, cleaning and no-brainer repairs and replacements. Here is a picture of my new "home" The bike has not been running for 6 years. I tried to get it started, but the starter would not engage the engine. I decided to tear it apart and "do it right". The bike was very clean. Some surface rust, but nothing beyond that. I recently pulled the rear engine cover. I found rust on the top of the ac generator rotor. I removed this to get at the starting clutch. Here is what I found. Can I just disassemble and try to clean this with a wire brush etc, or do I need to start looking for a replacement. I can not figure out why this one part seems to be the only one severely affected by the rust. What I can see inside the engine looks good. Do I need to go further in my disassembly , or do I fix this issue and put things back together? Does this indicate that there may be other problems? I am not on a mission to inspect every single part on this bike, but do not want to redo this project. Reading the shop manuals and figuring out how to complete the projects is doable, but I'm not sure how to diagnose. Thanks for your help.

[polkadot]

Just an update. Last night before bed I soaked the starter clutch in penatrating oil. This morning I was able to get the torx screws out. I could not get anything else loose. Everything is corroded and pitted to the max. I believe that it is beyond salvage. To that end I ordered a good replacement from psycocycle this morning. I took valve covers off and removed the oil strainer. ( I have used my screw extractors more in the last 2 weeks than in the rest of my adult life!) Why would they use these god-awful phillips screws instead of allen or hex head? Everything else looks good. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I'll keep you posted to my follies.

[Cookie]

You may have found out why folks occasionally have trouble with starter clutches that have sat for a while. On my red bike which sat outside the top part of the flywheel that was exposed is rusty. The starter was working a couple years ago when I got it and I hope it still does in a couple of weeks when I try it.

[Roady]

...Why would they use these god-awful phillips screws instead of allen or hex head?...

Probably because all screws and bolts are attached to threaded aluminum. Put too much oomph on 'em and you'll find out why the engineer wanted to restrict torque.

[starket]

...Why would they use these god-awful phillips screws instead of allen or hex head?...

Probably because all screws and bolts are attached to threaded aluminum. Put too much oomph on 'em and you'll find out why the engineer wanted to restrict torque.

That is why they make torque drivers and torque wrenchs. I guess the problem is most shade tree mechanics don't have them or keep them calibrated.

[Cookie]

A lot of stuff like that is done for the machines on the production line. I seem to recall that Philips head screws went into a lot of stuff because they are easy to center with a machine and quite cheap.